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Discussion Starter #1
I have taken out my 350 and am going to put in a 396. I know I need to change the engine frame mounts - but have heard a mix of other things to change. Just wanted to get some input from those who have "been there, done that" - it is a RS/SS and has the power brakes and power steering.

I also need to get some headers for the 396 - what would you recommend for a good fit around the power steering box?

Thanks in advance
 

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OK!!

Been there, done it all!!

I installed NOS '67 BB frame mounts and full poly that I wished I'd bought my stock, easy rip apart 350 rubber mounts and drilled them and bolted them tight w/ 3/8" bolts and stuff! The whole engine would fit lower is all here.....

I have right at 525 pound, cut down MOOG 5536 coil springs to take my 496's weight.

Sucker really sit's low, but has good ground clearance imho.

I did not change out my SB's heater box b/c, altho it's tight, my heater hoses fit fine.

I also bought a BB re-pop Z-bar so it is fine!!

I will say tho that way back when I installed my hopped up, high compressioned, .060" ovebore, 409 "W" engine I dropped it 100 percent on my 350's stocki stuff just like it came from the factory back then..

Radiator, a '66 Buick Special A/C 4-core copper rad. is the exact same as ours except it is trough mounted instead of side plate mounted like ours! I have one under my work bench now b/c I changed it out for a cheap Summit house/Northern Aluminum Rad. wide 2-core. I installed it for my 409....

pdq67
 

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As pdq67 said the big block z bar is a must , its a little bit longer due to the engine sitting a little bit towards the right side. As far as the headers are concerned the hooker comp. headers part#2457 fit real nice. No fitment issues whatsoever , as long as you use the big block mounts and stands.
 

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What trans do you plan to run? The BB also requres that you use a BB crossmember, with the same offset to the passenger side. Depending on the trans, you may also get away with using a SB crossmember with a 3-hole trans mount, and only use one bolt through the passenger side crossmember hole into the center of the trans mount.

Get the BB heater core and reinforcing plate, and just drill the holes in your existing firewall side heater box cover for the BB core.
 

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My M-20 is on my SB crossmember by using one bolt in the poly mount through the center hole and pushed over to the pass. side crossmember bolt-hole.

pdq67
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I will be running a T400 tranny -

Thanks for all the information on this - you guys are a great source of information.
 

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Back again,

Please really do your homework here w/ respect to what you are going to use to mount your BB on and what headers you need to use so that you won't have any header fitment issues.

The info is all here if you wanna do a search for it. And fwiw and imho, a BB up to a 496 will probably be fine w/ a 1.75" to a 1.875" header which make's fitment easier.

I have cheap 1.75" Heddmans on my car now.

pdq67
 

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Figure out what you are going to do with your water pump setup. Long or short style. and if you are going to keep alternater on driver's side. The driver side valve cover is close to the power brake booster too. I would put a bigger front sway bar in also. I also put heat shields on my brake lines below the master cylinder from heat from headers. Get correct shroud for BB application.
 

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I will be running a T400 tranny -

Thanks for all the information on this - you guys are a great source of information.
We didn't really answer/confirm this part, but with a TH400 the crossmember is a slam dunk. The only 1st gens with a TH400 were BB cars, so a TH400 crossmember for a 67-69 Camaro is perfect for you.
 

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I used all the correct pieces (used/repop/NOS) to put a 454 in my 67 and the only problem area was the left hand valve cover to the windshield wiper moter. Stock and shorter aftermarket valve covers fit without a problem but tall valve covers will require a notch be cut in them (and a bit of rewelding) to fit.

Remember that you'll need a different throttle linkage if your not using a cable.

If you dont want to change over to a big block heater assembly just turn the heater core upside down and cut holes in the cover for the hoses. Technically it's not correct but it will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Holy smokes - you guys are awesome - great information for me to go with -

Just to confirm - the TH400 crossmember I have in currently with the 350 will work with the 396?

I think I will just get the big block heater core and cover - sounds like a cleaner setup

In regard to the brake booster - could I just go with a smaller booster?

Thanks again - you guys are great!
 

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If you're using a 1st gen TH400 crossmember with a small block and small block mounts, do you have any driveline vibrations you can't pin down? A 1st gen TH400 crossmember is for a BB, and the mount pad is toward the passenger side more than the driver by an inch to 1.5 inches. If the cross you have has not been modified by moving the mount pad over to make the SB/TH400 line up straight in the frame, you're good to go.

BB core is cleaner, and easy to do. If you have a good heater box cover, don't waste your money on the repro BB cover; I got it and it seemed thinner than the OE cover, so I just drilled the OE cover and put the reinforcement plate on it.

You can go with a smaller booster, if you need to. Stock valvetrain and stock low covers clear 11 inch booster with plenty of room. Taller valvetrain and covers usually means a smaller booster.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Eric - your info is very helpful - I will take a look at the crossmember tomorrow and see if I can figure it out - I did not notice any vibration with the 350/TH400 combo.
 

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The reason I asked is that if the small block is on correct small block frame stands, and the TH400 cross hasn't been modified, then the tail of the trans would point toward the passenger side of the car instead of down the center, and the front U-joint would be at a weird angle. Sometimes that situation causes weird harmonics, U-joint wear, etc. If you don't have anything like that, either it's sort of lucky, or whoever did the install moved the pad on the crossmember.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
funny you bring that up - we had some problems with the driveline being very difficult to get out - and the rear seal was leaking - we thought from an improper driveline - it has always leaked. I think I might know why now - the cross member might be wrong. I will check it out and let you know.

Thanks again
 
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