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Discussion Starter #1
i asked about wiring up a kill switch for my 68 camaro and i was told to splice into the braided wire that was the hot to the coil and ever since i did that it has caught on fire and then it smokes evry now and then....i have messed around wiht it and i think im just going to buy a new engine wiring harness and not put a kill switch in cuz it has caused hella more problems than i need right now.....by the way the switch works great
Nick
 

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Almost sounds like the resistor wire or one of the connections somehow shorted to ground. Only reason I can think of why it would start burning.
 

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That's because some moron told you to wire a switch into the power lead to the coil. That wire is hot from the ignition switch. The kill switch is just a connection to ground used to keep the ignition coil from producing an output. If it's wired to the primary side of the ignition coil, as soon as you close your nice new kill switch you get a dead short to ground and the resistor wire is melting.

The Kill switch goes on the distributor side the (-) terminal of the ignition coil, not the power side (+) terminal. If you have a Tachometer, you can wire the kill switch into the lead wire for it, and it won't be apparent that there is an extra wire under the hood for a theif to remove.
 

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Not sure if the person was a moron (doubt it and wasn't me) or the instructions were misunderstood. The kill switch on coil positive is meant to open the line, not short it to ground. A lot of kill switches or alarm systems switch off the IGN power to coil positive. I've used a similar method before to cut IGN through a latching relay that also activates the horn. Once the relay latches even the key won't turn off the horn..only the kill switch. Had that thing tied into one loud horn.
 

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I guess that's true. All my kill switches have grounded out the secondary coil wiring, so a spark can not be generated. With a kill switch that just opens the power circuit to the coil it's to easy to directly jumper the positive terminal to the battery and jump the starter with a screw driver. Especially with an older car with no remote hood latch, and an ignition switch in the dash so you don't get the column lock. The car will start and stay running this way, and it only takes about 20 seconds to start the car. you don't even have to fool with punching the ignition, or even jumping wires like in the movies.

If it isn't obvious there is an extra wire on the coil the thief needs to spend time figuring the system out.
 

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Nick, what part of California are you in? As mentioned above the only way you could have the problems you describe is from a short. I doubt you need a whole new wiring harness. I would suggest you remove the switch until you either get some help from someone that is familiar with both cars an electricity or read up a little on it. A kill switch is very simple, for those of use that understand electricity and cars. Don't feel bad everyone has had bad advice or made mistakes. The main thing is to get your car SAFE again.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
it caught fire on me again and i just ripped the damn switch out and hooked it back to how it was originally and so far no probs....i did post teh topic for how to hook up a kill switch and some guys told me to do it to the resistor wire and i asked them again just to make sure and they said yeah so i went along and did it....i think i can salvage the wire since all the casing is chard off but i was lucky and no other wires melted or burnt up.....this time no kill switch thanx guys
Nick
P.S i knew something wasnt right about that set up
 

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I found the other post where someone told you to put a switch inline with the power connection from the ignition coil to your mallory Unilite distributor. Doesn't seem to be anything wrong with those instructions and you even replied that it was working fine. Something must have worked its way loose or possibly the wire insulation got cut going thru the firewall causing a ground in the circuit. Did you put a rubber grommet around the wire after you drilled a hole for the wires?. Sounds like it was the wire that ran back to the distributor from the switch that was bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i ran the wires in throught next to the fuse block along with all my other add on accessories like my fan, tach, and those work fine just looks like i get to put the wires and check for cuts and drill the firewall if i want to rehook it up thanx for the help
Nick
 

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Nick,
I noticed you said you have a wire for the fan (so I assume you are running an electric fan?), hopefully you are using a relay and fuse on the fan? If not you might want to look into this soon, that could be another potential fire hazzard. I have a very simple wiring diag. for wiring up a relay, if you are intersted.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
camaroman, why dont you send me that diagram because i just have an inline fuse hooking up my fan,
Nick
 
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