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Discussion Starter #1
I'm installing the CE solid body mounts. they say to take the top(original) mount flip it over and use it on the bottom. However the steel insert sticks out about another half and looks really screwy. Do I cutit flush with the bushing? After all these years the insert definately isn't coming out of the bushing. HELP!

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I didn't do this... I just put the solid mounts between the frame and the body. Check out the "other" section on my webpage for further info...
www.geocities.com/boodlefoof
 

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I made a set of solid mount's for mine this winter and it will be a few week's yet till I get to drive it , doe's anyone have one on the road with solid mount's ??? reason I ask is I wonder if it will ride different , like will you hear more road noise , feel every bump more , or will it not be any different .

[This message has been edited by mebe_epp (edited 02-28-2002).]
 

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I'm in need of new body mounts too. A couple of questions.

Do I only need to get body mounts, or are there others that I should replace too, such as the radiator support, etc. How many bushings do I need to replace all of them, and what are all the various "kits" called?

My front passenger side of the car is sitting a bit lower than the drivers side, and it isn't from a bent frame. Are the rad support bushings causing my problem? What do I need to fix that problem?

Lastly, how much work is involved in replacing this stuff? Will my car be out of commission for months?

Thanks!

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68 Coupe, 350 4-speed
Jim's Camaro Corner
 

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I put solid bushings in a year ago and have about 5-6K miles on it. I did the radiator too but I will say I have a Griffin radiator with tig'd seams. I didn't notice any increase in road harshness to speak of. I did, however, when I went with Energy Suspension poly motor and tranny mounts.

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Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,M20,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips ( yet ).
 

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mebe, there is no difference to me between the stock body mounts and solid ones. I am sure the body is stiffer, but I already had low profile tires on the car. Maybe if I had taller, more stock sized tires I could tell the difference.
 

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here are some answers to questions from the experience of replacing my rotted rubber mounts with solids from Competition Engineering...

First, there was a change in ride harshness... ride harshenss WAS REDUCED in my case. That is right, bumps aren't as noticible.

I attribute this to the fact that rather than the frame flexing, the now stiffened chassis setup forces more bump to be absorbed by the suspension rather than the frame.

Secondly, the job wasn't hard at all. It took me about 2 hours to do it. Take a look at my website for step by step instructions.

Finally, I too am running solids on the radiator support and haven't had any trouble yet. However, I am replacing the radiator and support this summer and plan on using some cushioning type mounts (probably home made rubber coated hooks of some sort) to affix the radiator to the support as some people say that the excess vibration can cause radiator leaks.

Finally, I couldn't really tell too much difference in handling other than the more precise feel. Less swimmy... Can't tell if the car can hold a turn better or anything, but the general driving feels more controlled than with the mushy rubber.
 

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sound's good , I used new cusion type on the radiator support , can't wait to try it out .
 

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You use the top rubber from the radiator support only. I goes between the frme and the radiator support. It gives a little bit of cushion at the radiator. I bought the CE kit and after much research, I decided to use rubber on the radiator support. I didnt want to buy the rubber kit so I made my own for a couple of bucks. Here is a link: http://www.ipservices.com/camaro/new_pix/camaro3.html

As far as the rear and mid mounts, nothing but the washer is needed on the bottom side of the frame.

Fairly easy job, just be sure to hit the cage nuts with some penetrating oil a couple of days before.

Good luck

Bob
 

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I've used solid mounts on the radiator support since around 1974, no problems at all.
David

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Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page
First Gen Suspension Page
67 RS 327 Origonal owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer
 

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Sorry for being the dummy here -- I have more questions. I think I'll go with the CE aluminum too. The kit comes with 6 bushings is this all I need to get? I guess I'm supposed to use the old bolts? There probably isn't much left of them!

What else do I need, are radiator support bushings sold separately?

One last thing. I think PA is rated 3 or 4 in the top 10 for the worst roads in the U.S. Will I possibly notice a bad ride with solid mounts for the radiator and body? My car is lowered in the front, and the rear will be lowered in the near future, and the ride is already somewhat "jarring" when you hit bumps.

Thanks for clearing this up.

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68 Coupe, 350 4-speed
Jim's Camaro Corner

[This message has been edited by Spames (edited 03-01-2002).]

[This message has been edited by Spames (edited 03-01-2002).]
 

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CE doesn't give you any new bolts or anything. Mine were in surprisingly good shape... just some surface rust. You shouldn't need to buy anything else unless the stuff you have is really mangled.

I have hit some potholes in my car before and after changing the mounts and the bumps really seem less noticible than they did with the really rotted rubber pieces. I don't think Virginia's roads are as bad as yours though.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thnaks everyone for the help. I also spoke
to competition engineerings techs, and they said to use the old bolts/washers, and i would need to use the old lower bushing to get the length. Or I could get shorter bolts and new washers. Is is possible to fix the subframe mount in the car?
 

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I also used the Global West units. I put new grade 8 bolts in. When you ask about fixing the frame mounts, what are you talking about? I welded in repair plates at the same time I did the bushings as the body was already raised off the frame.

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Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,M20,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips ( yet ).
 

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the Competition Engineering ones are supposedly 1/2'' shorter than stock... but I realized once I replaced my stock ones that the old rubber was so worn that the Comp Engineering solid mounts were actually thicker than the old compressed rubber.
 
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