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I put in a pair of Hotchkis Coil Springs HSS=1907F in my 67 camaro with a small block. The springs are designed to lower the car 2". I have the engine out of the car, and I'm reassembling the suspension after powder coating. Getting the old springs out was scary, but the new springs went in real easy. Didn't even have to use a jack. It seemed too easy, and now I'm worried that somethings not right. Anybody else have that experience? Did the car drive ok.
 

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Not unusual. Many springs, particularly those designed to lower a car and improve handling, will be both shorter and stiffer than stock. When I was running stock springs with 1 coil cut off, I could easily get them in and out without a spring compressor.
 

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I put in a pair of Hotchkis Coil Springs HSS=1907F in my 67 camaro with a small block. The springs are designed to lower the car 2". I have the engine out of the car, and I'm reassembling the suspension after powder coating. Getting the old springs out was scary, but the new springs went in real easy. Didn't even have to use a jack. It seemed too easy, and now I'm worried that somethings not right. Anybody else have that experience? Did the car drive ok.
Have you done or are you going to do the rears with the 1 1/2 drop...if so what was your experience with that and if your going to how bout an update when you get there....just my 2 cents here as well, remember not to tighten all the stuff down until you get the weight/engine back in the car...been a bunch of post about that...JimM who responded on this post is a good source of knowledge on the lowering gig.I'm about to start on my lowering adventure so been reading up some and having you as a source in progress is a plus:beers:
 

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There was a really good thread put together last week I think,that went over basically the whole nine yards about installing the lowering kits...it might have been David Pozzi that did it...but for some reason I think it was one of the other guys,anyway the general consesus is that you snug but dont torque all of the effected parts during the install...then let the car down with all the weight on it and torque every thing to spec. The problem as I understand it, is that if you dont do it this way you dont get the drop your looking for, I guess you would call it "bolt-bind" for lack of a better word, and there was some other reasons as well.
 

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I don't think it was me...
Anyway, just leave the upper and lower A arm RUBBER bushings and front and rear leaf RUBBER bushings. Torque them when on the ground. The poly bushings use an inner sleeve that is not bonded to the poly, so they can't twist them, and don't need to be on the ground when torqued.
David
 
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