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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm replacing some aged seals on my '69, I just don't know how to go about re-atatching the seals. There are 2 seals in the heater box (non-a/c), and the inner-fender well. Where would I find someone with a "stapler" to put these parts together? I Would sure appreciate your help. I always wanted to get a '69, now I can't wait to get it into shape and DRIVE IT. Thanks. MT
 

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Ditto that question . . . I'm replacing the inner fender seals on my 68. The repro seals came with "OE style" staples; they're heavy gauge round wire and very difficult to bend by hand. What I doing now (to see how it looks) is using garden variety, stainless steel staples from the Home Depot and pushing them through the original holes by hand then bending closed with pliers on the other side. My feelings on the results are mixed at the half way point. Oh yeah, I'm using contact cement to glue the seals in place before the stapling "procedure" begins.
 

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I did mine by lining up the staples with the existing holes in the metal (time consuming, but worked for me). Can also use a small diameter drill and drill throught the metal. If that does not work try strips of metal and poprivets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I thought about re-using the staples, maybe opening up the holes a little, I just didn't know if there might be an easier way. No pain,no gain. Thanks for your time.MT
 

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I replaced the weatherstripping on my camaro and the kit came with staples and a carbide drill bit. Instructions said to drill new holes and bend staples by hand. It was a real pain. Those factory installed staples are difficult to duplicate. For a "non correct" install just use metal screws. Much easier.

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Cars:
68 RS/SS BB ragtop
63 Nova II ragtop
Club:
Camaro Club of Kansas City
 

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When I received my new seals, they came with new staples, which like everything else I had purchased for the car, didn't fit the existing holes. And trying to rebend the new staples didn't work. I ended up making my own out of .018 guage galvanized wire (don't quote me on this size, I might be off a bit) which I purchased at the local hardware store. I cut to an appropriate length (around 1" I think) and using a vise grips, bent the 2 90 degree bends to fit my hole spacing using "trial and error" . When the size was right I inserted through the splash guards and fender well, then just pushed the 2 ends over making the "staple". It worked great, the galvanized wire hasn't rusted yet, and looks still has a nice clean shine.

John
 

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I am getting ready to tackle this job in the next week. I,too, bought a set of seals that come with the staples. I see what you mean by them being to big in diameter.

Any other ideas, guys?

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Steve McCorry - Central Ohio Camaro Club
'69 Camaro RS/SS-350 - Daytona Yellow
'95 Camaro Z-28 - Sebring Silver
click here to see my webpage ---> www.mindspring.com/~mccorry (updated 12/22/00)
 

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I did something similar to John's suggestion. The galvanized wire diameter used is 0.043" measured (I can't find the roll). Drill the holes for clearance. Take a 4" long piece, bent in a U, so that the distance between the legs are approximately the same as the hole width in the fenderwell. Stick both ends through from the engine compartment side and twist the two ends together from the wheel side just like safety wire. The twisting action will pull the wire taught on the engine side. Cut off the excess wire leaving about 3/16"-1/4" and fold the wire into the shield. Touch up with a bit of black paint. For the staples at the back of the well just stick the wire through from the well side, cut each leg at 7/16", and fold over. I've had mine on for 18 months with no problems.

I used an awl to poke holes in the rubber shield as I went along.



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Click here to see see my car and hear 5-speeds. http://www.geocities.com/casanoc
 
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