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I have a 67 Camaro with a 350 with an automatic transmission. My starter started going out and would only crank like 50% of the time so I bought a new one and when i pulled the old one off the bolts didnt line up so i took it back to the auto parts store and they said that was the one the computer listed but gave me the one for a manual transmission and it had the right bolt holes. I installed it, connected everything back up the way it was but it still wont turn over, it just clicks. I jumped the silanoid and get a high pitched wine so i know i need to shim it but why wont it do that when i turn the key? Any help would be awesome thanks
 

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A lot of similar threads going on regarding similar starter issues. Have you taken a voltage reading at at the end of the ignition wire that's attached to the starter while the key is being held in starting/cranking position? Not saying that's your problem but I just about replaced my relatively new starter with a new one thinking it was going bad due to heat soak but it turned out to be an issue with my ignition switch instead. I begun having starting issues when the car was hot but eventually it went to all the time and one day it just would not start. Took a voltage reading at the ignition wire and it was 0.03 V.
 

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Where is your ground cable attached? They really need to be on the block itself. Do you have the support brace mounted on front of the starter, and have the brace bolted to the block? Many people leave this brace off. Doing so puts excessive pressure on the nose of the starter which can cause problems.
 

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Good suggestions given so far and front brace is needed.

If the starter whines during cranking, yes, it needs shimming and start with the smallest/thinnest and work up in thickness until the sound is good. Be ready to remove a battery clamp to stop the starter in case the starter drive gets jammed and motor keeps turning.

Solenoid power takes a good journey as opposed to the 1/2 inch travel you did earlier. The power goes through the clamp to junction block to horn relay buss bar to firewall connector to ignition switch to neutral safety switch to firewall connector and to S terminal of solenoid through starter frame through cable to cable clamp. Any one of these connections can be corroded and become a high resistance reducing available power. Wire brush comes in handy. Having 10 volts at S terminal is good. As Andy suggested, having ground cable on the block helps. Having good size cables works also, as in 1 AWG. I have tore apart ignition switches and emery papered the contacts to remove carbon build-up from the many years on making & breaking the START connection. Patience is the key tool.
 

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Be ready to remove a battery clamp to stop the starter in case the starter drive gets jammed and motor keeps turning.
I have found this more prevalent when there is low voltage, like a low battery, bad connections or bad cables. Quick connect battery clamps or a shutoff switch in the ground cable are helpful. Especially when the batt is in the trunk.
 
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