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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve read most threads I could find on this as I start to debug. I have a new battery and the car starts fine when cold. If I drive the car for 10min (it’s 97° here) and shut it down it sounds like it’s not going to start but always does. Just cranks real slow.

From what I’ve read it could be a bad starter / solenoid, bad wiring, bad lockout switch, or bad ground. The positive cable is brand new as well and high quality.

Where‘s the best place to start?

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No headers. Stock exhaust. Car has AC so it gets warm under the hood. I was going to buy a remote starter switch do I could jump the purple wire to “S” to the 12v cable coming from the battery. I thought that would be an easy place to start.

Ed
 

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So how old is the starter and solenoid. Did you have this problem before, that lead you to buy the new battery??
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Great question. No, battery is new because it was 5yrs old. It’s done this before replacing the battery. I bought the car two years ago and from what I can see the starter looks fairly new.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just measured the “S” terminal voltage while cranking and measured a little under 9v. Car isn’t hot now and is cranking normal.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was inspecting the wires and noticed the wire connected to the R terminal that runs back to the coil looks a bit worn. It‘s my understanding that this wire switches 12v to the coil to aid in the car starting and shuts off once the key is released. I’m not really sure if it even was frayed whether or not it would cause the starter to crank slower. Hard for me to imagine that happening but looking for feedback.

Ed
 

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A worn R terminal wire would not cause the starter to crank slower.

I would be more concerned about the 9V on the S terminal. This voltage should be nearly the same as the battery voltage while cranking. So what is your battery voltage while cranking?
 

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What is your initial timing? If >10 degrees, try moving it back to 8-10 and see if it cranks better.
Keep in mind there are two battery cables and clamps. I had one ground cable that the lead clamp looked fine and everything was clean and tight, but it still wouldn't make good contact to the battery post. Try putting a jumper cable from the battery to ground.
If all else fails, remove the starter and take it to a shop and have it tested.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just to be clear, you want me to get the car hot again and then measure the battery voltage and solenoid voltages. Correct? If so, I will do it tomorrow morning.

Ed
 

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First place I would look is the entire ignition wire circuit and check that all connections are clean and tight. Inspect the wires for any damage/kinks.

In addition to the initial timing question asked by R66... What kind of distributor are you using?... and do you know if the distributor is using the lightest tension advance weight springs?
If you have a timing light, look at the initial timing when the engine is cooler (but can idle at normal rpm / no fast idle) and then check initial timing when the engine is hot. If initial timing increases when the engine is hot, the heat from the engine may be causing the advance weight springs to lose some of their tension... and cause additional advanced timing at start-up.

If you are using a "coil in cap" HEI, remove the cap and check that the the distributor's advance centerplate is installed correctly and the advance springs are holding the advance weights against the centerplate with no play between the two.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I checked the ignition wires and other then the R wire looking a bit old, everything else looked ok and snug. I’ll double check tomorrow.

I will check the timing as well. As far as I know, it’s the original distributor.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I came out to work on the car this morning and the battery was dead. Reason: my wife, who was cranking the car so I could measure the voltage drop, left the key on. So instead of introducing another variable, I’ve hooked it up to a charger and will get back at it tomorrow afternoon.

I appreciate the help.
Ed
 

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I thought the readings that you took yesterday at battery and starter were when the car had not run. That is why I suggested to drive the car then check it. I thought we could compare readings at those two locations in a cold condition and it a hot condition. Sorry for the confusion
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I was confusing. Tomorrow I will measure the timing and take the voltage measurements cold and hot.

Stay tuned and thanks for the help. I‘ve never dealt with this specific type of issue and while it’s a PITA, I do enjoy learning.

Ed
 

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Just to add more information, what kind of battery, kind of charger, and where is your battery?
 

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All the current to and from the starter motor runs through the big cables and there's no need to worry about the small wires on the solenoid. If the starter is slow, timing could be too advanced, the starter going bad, the solenoid contacts burned, not enough current due to a discharged/bad battery, or resistive connections/cables. I may have missed one or two...
Where is the big ground cable grounded? It's best to run it to to the block.
Measure the battery voltage after it sits, with the engine running, and while cranking.
Measure the voltage while cranking from one end of each battery cable to the other, as well as from the starter case to where the big ground cable connects.
You can check for hot spots at the big cable ends after cranking to feel for resistive connections acting like heaters.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Here’s a picture of the engine compartment. The battery is grounded to intake and also to the quarter panel. The battery is everstart maxx from Walmart (yea I know not the best) but I’ve never had an issue using them.

I’m charging it with a trickle charger and I believe it will be ok by tomorrow morning. Both the ground and positive cables are new. Bought them from Lectric limited (good quality).

I really want to know what the timing is.

Ed
265002


265003
 
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