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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
69 Manual. Before buying a new starter I want to confirm that’s the problem…

12.5 volts on the battery terminal on the solenoid
6 volts when the key is turned on
no Movement/noise when I jump from the battery terminal to the control circuit

it’s been working randomly, but may be completely dead now.
 

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I just had exactly the same situation. Replaced the solenoid and all is working. $24 from Advance Auto after burning some speed perks.
 

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Hit the starter firmly but not crazy hard with a hammer see if it works. If so starter needs rebuilt. If u jump starter wires with screw driver it should work if it’s the selenoid. Your jumping it.
 

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Measure the battery voltage across the battery. 12.6 is charged. Measure again w/ the key in the start position.
Ground the battery to the engine.
Disconnect and clean all electrical connections to the starter (the big cables).
Disconnect and clean all electrical connections from the battery to to the solenoid. These are the small wires leading to the S-terminal on the sol.
Measure the battery voltage across the battery. 12.6 is charged. Measure again w/ the key in the start position.
Charge the battery for a few days.
Measure the battery voltage across the battery. 12.6 is charged. Measure again w/ the key in the start position.

Sounds like a discharged battery or resistive connections somewhere leading to the sol S-terminal.
Buy a new starter, but it's unlikely to resolve the issue unless a solenoid is needed.
 

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This is the second thread on the same starter. Previously it was stated that it would work if the starter was hit with a hammer, and the battery had 12.5 volts and the battery was charged/tested at the parts store and found to be fine. No reason to think it's not the starter.
 

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This is the second thread on the same starter. Previously it was stated that it would work if the starter was hit with a hammer, and the battery had 12.5 volts and the battery was charged/tested at the parts store and found to be fine. No reason to think it's not the starter.
If you need to cheap out, just replace the brushes. That's what hitting the starter indicates is the problem.
 
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I am assuming the voltage measurement is being taken at the battery. What is the voltage measurement at the fusebox before and after the key is turned on?
Sounds like the starter needs rebuilt or replaced, but it could be the ignition switch as well. $12 part that shouldn't be overlooked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you all for the replies!!!

This is the second thread on the same starter. Previously it was stated that it would work if the starter was hit with a hammer, and the battery had 12.5 volts and the battery was charged/tested at the parts store and found to be fine. No reason to think it's not the starter.
You're right. Since that last post I started to think it may be the starter switch or both...Maybe I should have added to that last thread.

So here's the status before reading the most recent replies. I charged the battery. Now 12.83 volts at the battery terminals. I pulled the starter and tried to run it with jumper cables and a jumper on the S terminal. Although I get a little spark, nothing happens.

So the small wire has what voltage with attempting to start?
I also checked the wiring (I did clean the wires). With starter removed, on the purple (S) wire, I get zero volts when cranking. That suggests an issue there too, correct? I get power to the dash lights...leading me to...


I am assuming the voltage measurement is being taken at the battery. What is the voltage measurement at the fusebox before and after the key is turned on?
Sounds like the starter needs rebuilt or replaced, but it could be the ignition switch as well. $12 part that shouldn't be overlooked.
I need to check the fuse box too.
 

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Ground your meter and test the battery terminal with the key off. It should read 12.6 or close to it. Test the ACC terminal and it should read 0. Turn the key on, test both again. ACC should have close to 12.6 volts.

If you have significantly less voltage the part that needs replaced is towards the bottom of the steering column.

This one is for tilt wheel


This one is for non-tilt wheel
 

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I will take "it needs a starter Alex for $100"

if tapping it previously brought it back to life....to me that points to starter. May just be solonoid or internal starter, IDK.

My $.02 is getting a new starter get the Remy from rockauto that is a "gear reduction" type. Mine was around $80 IIRC.

X reference chart for non-gear reduction (stock) to GR part #.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ground your meter and test the battery terminal with the key off. It should read 12.6 or close to it. Test the ACC terminal and it should read 0. Turn the key on, test both again. ACC should have close to 12.6 volts.
Battery: 12.49
ACC on the fuse box: 12.09

I’m going to the store to buy a starter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Let us know…hoping you took the starter with you to get tested and turn in the core.
well, luckily I took the starter. I was going to keep it. I forgot they could test it. They did and it worked fine. They hooked ground to a different spot. I had hooked it up to the nose, they hooked it up to the bolt on the back of thI brought it back home and hooked it to the battery with jumpers and vroom. Installed it and nothing. No click, quiet.
Ignition switch ?

thank you all for sticking with me!
 
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