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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

I'm having problems with my (1969 Camaro SS, 350 Small Block, 5.7L V8)

I had trouble getting my car to start this past summer. It seemed it wasn't getting spark. I ripped out the MSD box and went with a ready-to-run distributor. After finally finding TDC on the compression stroke, the car fired up. I thought it would just be a moment in time before the car ran properly and I was able to get the timing straight. The result was I could get the car to fire, but it would not stay on without my foot on the accelerator. I gave up and just left it alone until I could take some time off of work to look at it again. I finally broke down and called a mobile mechanic out to the house who was sufficient in working on classics (he runs a 1974 El Camino with a similar setup to mine) He was able to get the timing on track, but the end result was it needed a new starter and a new carburetor. I went with a Proform starter and an Edelbrock AVS Carb with an electric choke (1906). I called my dad's mechanic, the guy who helped my dad put this car together. He told me not to worry about running performance parts because my dad had other plans, other than what I now use the car for. He said what I haven't accounted for is the cam. This car has a really big cam that's throwing off the timing. This car has run well (for the past 8 years that my dad has been deceased). Now that it's getting cold in GA, I've got to get my daily car back in the garage and get this one back into my spare garage out back. I just can't start it to move it out of there. I called the mobile mechanic back out, but he stood me up the last time and now he is not answering. Today it seems like my problems are beyond my scope of understanding. With the holidays around the corner, I can't spend any more money with this guy. My dilemmas are listed below:

1. I put the carb on myself, thinking it was plug-and-play, but my vacuum lines were fit for a Holley.
2. I wired the electric choke and I called Edlebrcok ( they told me to open it up and adjust it.
3. I found out from the mechanic that the timing he set matched the old carburetor. and possibly needs to be reset for the new one.
4. The car starts at times, when I've slightly adjusted the distributor and have sprayed a little starter fluid into the bowl.
5. When it does start, it won't idle to stay on.
6. Battery was new in July, but I kept it on a maintainer. Now fully charged, I only get about 5-10 minutes to try to crank it before it goes dead again. I had it tested 2 days ago at Advanced and it passed all the test
7. I adjusted the fuel/air mixture screws prematurely of getting it started (bad, I know Edelbrock customer service told me so)

Guys, I'm bit out of my league, but I know I won't learn unless I try, try and try again. My best friend runs a 65' Mustang that his dad gave to him and the only thing he knows about his car is where to put the gas nozzle. My dad left me 3 cars all classics and I just want to maintain them so that they hold their value.

Can someone please help? If you know friendly supporting enthusiasts living in the Atlanta, GA area that would be a huge blessing!

Thank you in advance!

Ryan
 

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As mentioned, the rotor should be facing the #1 cylinder at TDC. Make sure there is no open vacuum lines. How did you wire the choke?? What power source ??
 

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Hello All,

I'm having problems with my (1969 Camaro SS, 350 Small Block, 5.7L V8)

I had trouble getting my car to start this past summer. It seemed it wasn't getting spark. I ripped out the MSD box and went with a ready-to-run distributor. After finally finding TDC on the compression stroke, the car fired up. I thought it would just be a moment in time before the car ran properly and I was able to get the timing straight. The result was I could get the car to fire, but it would not stay on without my foot on the accelerator. I gave up and just left it alone until I could take some time off of work to look at it again. I finally broke down and called a mobile mechanic out to the house who was sufficient in working on classics (he runs a 1974 El Camino with a similar setup to mine) He was able to get the timing on track, but the end result was it needed a new starter and a new carburetor. I went with a Proform starter and an Edelbrock AVS Carb with an electric choke (1906). I called my dad's mechanic, the guy who helped my dad put this car together. He told me not to worry about running performance parts because my dad had other plans, other than what I now use the car for. He said what I haven't accounted for is the cam. This car has a really big cam that's throwing off the timing. This car has run well (for the past 8 years that my dad has been deceased). Now that it's getting cold in GA, I've got to get my daily car back in the garage and get this one back into my spare garage out back. I just can't start it to move it out of there. I called the mobile mechanic back out, but he stood me up the last time and now he is not answering. Today it seems like my problems are beyond my scope of understanding. With the holidays around the corner, I can't spend any more money with this guy. My dilemmas are listed below:

1. I put the carb on myself, thinking it was plug-and-play, but my vacuum lines were fit for a Holley.
2. I wired the electric choke and I called Edlebrcok ( they told me to open it up and adjust it.
3. I found out from the mechanic that the timing he set matched the old carburetor. and possibly needs to be reset for the new one.
4. The car starts at times, when I've slightly adjusted the distributor and have sprayed a little starter fluid into the bowl.
5. When it does start, it won't idle to stay on.
6. Battery was new in July, but I kept it on a maintainer. Now fully charged, I only get about 5-10 minutes to try to crank it before it goes dead again. I had it tested 2 days ago at Advanced and it passed all the test
7. I adjusted the fuel/air mixture screws prematurely of getting it started (bad, I know Edelbrock customer service told me so)

Guys, I'm bit out of my league, but I know I won't learn unless I try, try and try again. My best friend runs a 65' Mustang that his dad gave to him and the only thing he knows about his car is where to put the gas nozzle. My dad left me 3 cars all classics and I just want to maintain them so that they hold their value.

Can someone please help? If you know friendly supporting enthusiasts living in the Atlanta, GA area that would be a huge blessing!

Thank you in advance!

Ryan
2. I wired the electric choke and I called Edlebrcok ( they told me to open it up and adjust it.
The electric choke shouldn’t have to be touched at all. A cold engine should have a closed plate, and gradually open.

3. I found out from the mechanic that the timing he set matched the old carburetor. and possibly needs to be reset for the new one.

I‘ve never heard this one before. The timing is supposed to match the position of the #1 piston when it’s at TDC. Once the engine is running after making small adjustments to the distributor, you then have to make adjustments to the carburetor for a smooth idle. The carburetor is adjusted to the engine.

Is the idle speed adjustment screw on the carb set to keep an idle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
As mentioned, the rotor should be facing the #1 cylinder at TDC. Make sure there is no open vacuum lines. How did you wire the choke?? What power source ??
I wired the power to the choke through the 12v acc on my fuse panel.
2. I wired the electric choke and I called Edlebrcok ( they told me to open it up and adjust it.
The electric choke shouldn’t have to be touched at all. A cold engine should have a closed plate, and gradually open.

3. I found out from the mechanic that the timing he set matched the old carburetor. and possibly needs to be reset for the new one.

I‘ve never heard this one before. The timing is supposed to match the position of the #1 piston when it’s at TDC. Once the engine is running after making small adjustments to the distributor, you then have to make adjustments to the carburetor for a smooth idle. The carburetor is adjusted to the engine.

Is the idle speed adjustment screw on the carb set to keep an idle?
I haven't had it running long enough to adjust. When the car does fire up, I have to pull the throttle rod to keep it going. Once I let it go, the car shuts off.

Thank you,
Fairfax
 

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I wired the power to the choke through the 12v acc on my fuse panel.


I haven't had it running long enough to adjust. When the car does fire up, I have to pull the throttle rod to keep it going. Once I let it go, the car shuts off.

Thank you,
Fairfax
You will have to find that balance of timing and idle. The choke plate will start to open due to the 12v being applied, which will challenge your balance.
 

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What was the problem that caused you to start swapping parts? It seems it was no spark at all and the engine would not fire at all.
1. You have verified the timing on the compression stroke and the distributor rotor is pointing at #1 plug? I would set the static timing (with the engine not running) at 8 degrees before TDC for initial starting.
2. You changed the carburetor and used the correct gasket to the intake and torqued the nuts? Verified all vacuum ports on the carburetor are hooked up or plugged. You may want to plug them all for the troubleshooting.
3. You set the choke per the Edlebrock video or specifications? Must be set with a cold engine.
4. I would set the idle air screws out 2-1/2 turns from seated for initial start if you have previously changed them.
5. CAUTION: Use precautions to prevent fuel spraying everywhere. Have and extinguisher ready if you crank with the line open. If the engine starts, but runs only on high throttle, you may want to verify fuel pressure from the pump either with a gauge or disconnect the line at the carburetor and crank the engine to observe the flow. Should fill a quart jar about 1/2 full with only a few cranks and have a strong stream.
6. If you have to use ether or starting fluid to start it, you are not getting fuel. After it does run for a short while, shut it off and wait a couple of minutes then verify the accelerator pump shoots fuel when the throttle lever is stroked.

If it runs at high idle you are getting spark.
Cam timing is set at the timing chain and gears, you would need the specifications and remove the timing chain cover to check it.
My guess is you have a vacuum leak at the carburetor / intake gasket or you haven't plugged all of the vacuum ports. I would plug all of the ports for testing to eliminate a possible bad power brake booster, PCV valve, and vacuum advance canister.
It is basic fuel, air, ignition, and timing operation. If the balance of fuel and air is wrong, it won't idle. It is very unlikely the new carburetor float was set wrong at the factory.
 
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