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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys-
My head is spinning on this one. I redid full front susp including 3rd gen steering box. Car had factory nontilt column. All susp and gear box parts went in smoothly, with steering wheel lined up perfectly with the nontilt column.

I've just installed a rebuilt tilt column and wood wheel. Now wheel is about 120 degrees away from centered. I've double checked every step in the process and all is identical to what was pulled out. Pitman is correct since car was good prior. Rag joint didn't change. Lower flange on column is on correctly. Locking plate at top of column is clocked correctly. Etc, etc, etc.

I'm not sure what else I can even alter to get where I need to go: lower flange has one install position, upper lock plate has one position, wheel hub has one position, wood wheel has one position. You get the idea...I'm lost as to what else to look for.

I could accept that something was out IF I was installing all susp and column parts together but I'm certain the gearbox and other linkage is correct...car was driving perfectly prior to tilt column.

I've seen somewhat similar posts and some folks are saying to let alignment shop work the issue out on their rack. I say BS...no way that's the correct call here...these parts are supposed to have only one way to install correctly and compensating with alignment can't be right.

Please help if you can!

Thx,
Nick
 

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I just had a very similar issue with my rebuilt tilt. Mine was about 90-100 degrees off. I read an article by Jim Shea where he mentions that when the column was rebuilt, they could have used the wrong lower shaft. A quick fix solution was to remove some of the teeth on the lock plate to get the horn tower closer to the eleven oclock position. I had to remove 3 of the teeth on mine and it works great now.
 

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It’s been a while but I had the same issue. Going on a rusty memory here but I believe that I had that on all three that I did. Everything fit one way and my steering wheels were of by just about 180 degrees. On two 68’s I just rotated the turn signal canceling cams. On a ’69 I had to also rotate the locking plate to allow the horn contact to pass through with the cam properly clocked. In the end I just removed the column lock place since the car gets raced and I just feel better without the possibility of the column getting locked if somebody tries to use the key as a kill switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
hmmm...do you guys think that altering or removing the lock plate will effect the turn signal canceling in any way? If you remove the plate, how to you get proper spring pressure at the top of the column? It's that 'juice' between the lock plate and the center spring that keeps everything loaded and maintains the solidity of the whole system, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Remove teeth on column lock plate to center steering wheel?

Has anyone had problems centering steering wheel and rectified it by removing a few teeth from column lock plate? My wheel is out about 110-120 degrees and all other aspects of the steering system are correct. This is after installing a rebuilt tilt column. With prior factory non-tilt column, wheel was perfectly straight and car drove 100% true.

I've been told removing some teeth to allow reclocking the plate is a possible solution but I want to know if there are any adverse effects after doing this. Turn signal canceling? Other?

Thanks for your input,
Nick
 
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