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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's the best way to strap the front end down? I have a 68 and know there are round holes in the front of the subframe that were used from the factory, but I had someone tell me to go around the cross member instead. They said that by using the holes in front could pull and possibly twist or bend the front of the subframe. I certainly don't want to do any damage, but it is convenient.

Thanks
GR868
68 SS
 

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The "Best Way" is to use 'tire basket nets' that go over the front tires and anchor the car to the trailer, these load the front tires down to the trailer without putting any downforce on the acual suspension parts. The car will move around a little in towing but it shouldn't effect the trailer handling.
The next best way is to use the original factory tie down points in the frame. These are the elongated slots that are about 1~1 1/2" wide and about 3" long. Use a tie down in each one and bring to a center point and achor these chains (?) to the trailer. This will load the chassis equally during the tie down.
 

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what my dad does is has a strap the is about a foot long and has 2 closed hooks on each end, he puts that on the part of the subframe where it connects the 2 crossmember parts together, and then hooks a regular ratchet strap to the colsed ends of the one he just wrapped around the part of the frame...........sorry that my be a little confusing
 

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Not taking anything away from vintage 68, because both his descriptions are good ones to follow.
But I use 2 straps, not chains, wrapped around the x-member and pulled to the front. Not all trailers have the same mounting locations and for me this way works. Mounting locations and hardware used plays a big part in how you do it.
 

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I use the factory holes when available. My 67 didn't have the holes as it's a very early car.
It's important to pull forward with the front tie downs and not just down or the car will still roll around.
You need four straps, one at each corner, I like the rachet straps with long handles for better leverage. It's very important not to run a tie down strap over a sharp edge, the car jerking around will cut them. That's why I like to use the factory holes.

In the rear I welded a link of chain to the spring perch on the rear axle housing and just snap the tie down hook into that. I hate crawling under the car running straps or chain over the rear axle, plus the brake lines could be damaged. I cross the rear straps in an X as I have pretty good front to rear room. If they were not hooked as far to the rear as the rear bumper on the trailer end, I'd run them straight ahead.
 

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I use 4 ratchet straps with axle straps. Front axle straps over front of lower A arm and attached to 6' ratchet strap cross attached. Rear axle straps over axle tubes and cross attached. It takes us about 10 min. from the end of a show to be completely loaded, tied down and on the road. A complete set of straps is about $125 ;) Jim

[ 04-29-2003, 09:38 AM: Message edited by: NWYENKO ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the information.

Are the factory tie down points the round holes at the front of the subframe right behind the bumper brackets? Are there any factory tie down points at the back of the car?

I just started trailering my Camaro and so far, I've used the round holes in the front and anchor forward and out, probably about a 45-degree angle (just enough to clear the front spoiler). I just want to make sure I'm not tweaking/twisting the front end of my Camaro.

Thanks again
GR868
68 SS
 

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Regardless of what you do:
I double and occasionally triple what I do on my cars. It's saved me twice.

I strap or chain all 4 corners down, and then I will put a chained loop around my subframe cross member. That particular securing point basically will keep the car on the trailer all by itself should any one corner fail for some reason. I've had problems twice... once on the border of KY & TN while going down a steep hill my car bounced sideways and loosened up a chain and I snapped a chain going through NYC once. Either of those times if I hadn't doubled up what I was doing - I would have dumped my car on the ground.

Here's a picture of what I'm talking about.



That particular chain will only allow the car to roll forward or backward about 6 inches, I can feel it and immediately check to see what happened. Rather than look in the rear view mirror and see my stuff flipping all over the place.
 

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NastyZ - You have a POOL ?!?!?!?! :D
 

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The chain idea works fine if you don't mind scarring, marring, scratching, gouging and otherwise disfiguring the hold down points! Not trying to be smart but metal on metal is not the best. For the small price of decent straps, a lot of wear and tear can be avoided especially for longer hauls. ;) Jim
 
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