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Installing some 1" lowering blocks today. Should get the rear end perfect. Of course, its never a 10 minute job. The nuts on the left outside u-bolt are spinning. One won't tighten or loosen. It turns turn with just the ratchet, so I doubt that the impact will have any effect.

Any tips on getting these off? I don't have any heat and my cut off wheel won't fit in there.

Thanks!
 

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Installing some 1" lowering blocks today. Should get the rear end perfect. Of course, its never a 10 minute job. The nuts on the left outside u-bolt are spinning. One won't tighten or loosen. It turns turn with just the ratchet, so I doubt that the impact will have any effect.

Any tips on getting these off? I don't have any heat and my cut off wheel won't fit in there.

Thanks!
Try one of these...nut splitter...available most anywhere...got this one from Sears!
 

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Or try the cave man method: Vice grip the nut and pulling downward with great force as you loosen - should carve a path to the next groove and start to spiral down again.
 

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Cutoff should be able to get to the top side above the perch against the axle. Buzz it and let it drop out. Parts store has new ones.
 

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Why in the world wouldn't you follow the assembly manual and torque to factory settings using a torque wrench? My god, if there's any place you don't want to under-tighten or over-tighten its your suspension pieces.
 

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Hammer a wedge between the bottom of the spring and top of the shock plate to create some downward pressure on the u-bolts. Not too much. Should make the nuts find the next thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies guys. I went for the man-cave method at first, and no dice. Then tried the cutoff again and was able to get in there.

And Chet, I'm simply repairing errors made by the PO long ago. There were different sized and missing u-bolts, stripped threads, unsecured brake lines, etc. So little by little, we'll get there. :thumbsup:

Thanks again guys.
 

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Why in the world wouldn't you follow the assembly manual and torque to factory settings using a torque wrench? My god, if there's any place you don't want to under-tighten or over-tighten its your suspension pieces.
Relax there Skippy. No need to be so condescending. A little constructive HELP and a suggestion or two on how to get through his current issue wouldn't be so tough to do, would it?
 

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Relax there Skippy. No need to be so condescending. A little constructive HELP and a suggestion or two on how to get through his current issue wouldn't be so tough to do, would it?
Not the 1st time for CRD.
 

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Why in the world wouldn't you follow the assembly manual and torque to factory settings using a torque wrench? My god, if there's any place you don't want to under-tighten or over-tighten its your suspension pieces.
I've never seen lowering blocks in the assembly manual! How do you know he was tightening it and not removing it? And for that matter how do you know he isn't planning to use a torque wrench once he's got the bolts snugged in place with a wrench or socket?

Sounds to me like you're jumping to conclusions and attacking nature indicates you don't have much hands on wrenching experience along with a general lack of understanding of when to use a torque wrench.

You should really try to live up to your screen name, not much "Cool" in your posts!
 

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You're supposed to torque those to a spec????
I used a breaker bar and both legs til my back was bowed to tighten those grade 8 nuts.
I'll use Steiners' solution if I need to drop 'em.
 

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I've never seen lowering blocks in the assembly manual! How do you know he was tightening it and not removing it? And for that matter how do you know he isn't planning to use a torque wrench once he's got the bolts snugged in place with a wrench or socket?

Sounds to me like you're jumping to conclusions and attacking nature indicates you don't have much hands on wrenching experience along with a general lack of understanding of when to use a torque wrench.

You should really try to live up to your screen name, not much "Cool" in your posts!
was not he invited to leave the forum
 

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I've never seen lowering blocks in the assembly manual! How do you know he was tightening it and not removing it? And for that matter how do you know he isn't planning to use a torque wrench once he's got the bolts snugged in place with a wrench or socket?

Sounds to me like you're jumping to conclusions and attacking nature indicates you don't have much hands on wrenching experience along with a general lack of understanding of when to use a torque wrench.

You should really try to live up to your screen name, not much "Cool" in your posts!
Maybe you should live up to your new status of "retired" and not worry about what I post if not directed to you. But that's not your style is it?
 

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Why in the world wouldn't you follow the assembly manual and torque to factory settings using a torque wrench? My god, if there's any place you don't want to under-tighten or over-tighten its your suspension pieces.
maybe you should try reading the questions that are asked and offer helpful advice based on your endless years of experience...
 

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Here's the advice that any of you so-called rodders and machinists should have told him after he accurately described the situation in his subsequent post......take your cutoff wheel or sawzall and cut the bolts off at the top. You cant use them again, they should be replaced after they have been torqued because the threads are rolled, not cut. The threads get distorted when torqued. Because of that distortion, the proper torque cannot be maintained when the nuts are loosened then retightened. Glad I'll never ride in some you the death traps you call Camaros.
 

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at least ours are drivable
it's just a shame that everyone on this forum does not have the wealth of knowledge YOU caim to have.
just imagine if that were true, there would be no need for this forum or YOU
 
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