Team Camaro Tech banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
764 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I'm in the process of replacing a door motor on my RS headlight. The headlight itself works but the light isnt the best (dismal) and somewhere along the line got paint overspray on it. I was thinking about adding a relay kit to up the volts but don't think that's necessary as I got a high reading when I tested it.

I would like to replace the headight (says T3 on the glass) to a bright halogen, perhaps Silverstar. When I look them up it's just a bulb and not the "bucket" the bulb goes in.

So my stupid question is - what housing should I use with the silverstar bulb?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
153 Posts
If you're looking to just replace the bulb, many options. If you're looking to go a LOT brighter and your wiring is up to the added current, Susquehanna Motorsports (rallylights.com) sells conversion kits with Hella European-Spec H4 housings and H4 bulbs of your choice. Pretty neat upgrade...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
764 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks BPOS, that is what I was looking for! Sometimes I feel like I'm a dim bulb, especially after a long day...

If you're looking to just replace the bulb, many options. If you're looking to go a LOT brighter and your wiring is up to the added current, Susquehanna Motorsports (rallylights.com) sells conversion kits with Hella European-Spec H4 housings and H4 bulbs of your choice. Pretty neat upgrade...
I need the housing and bulb. I'll take a look at the one you mentioned - thanks!

Is just the one headlight dim. If so the ground wire on the plug is not attached or broken
Naw, it's both. I'm getting 14.x volts at the light with the engine at speed so no issues with power. The T3 is just not comparable with modern lights so I figured while I'm tearing apart the headlight assemblies and rebuilding them (new bushings/washers/motor/etc on the way) I might as well get some decent light in there. I started looking at the HID conversion kits but that's another can of worms...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
764 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
If you're looking to just replace the bulb, many options. If you're looking to go a LOT brighter and your wiring is up to the added current, Susquehanna Motorsports (rallylights.com) sells conversion kits with Hella European-Spec H4 housings and H4 bulbs of your choice. Pretty neat upgrade...
Do you have a part number? On their site I found this: HL70477 which has a HB2 60/55w bulb.

Brighter, whiter is better!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,424 Posts
Just go to Auto Zone and ask for a halogen headlight seal beam for a 67 Camaro. BTW if you look at the picture the part number is H6024.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
32,606 Posts
X2 Simple and don't forget to align the lights after installing.
Two other events you might do,
1. if going to halogen, either - install a 55A or more 10DN alt and electronic voltage regulator, or convert to 12SI alt.
2. add relay power for the headlamps because of wire loss of current from battery/alt to switch and back out to lamps - shorten the journey.
 

·
Admin/Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,511 Posts
And since the T3's are desirable you could buff it with some steel wool to remove the paint over spray. Hook up relays to make them as bright as the old technology can be. If you go with replacements you should sell the T3's :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
764 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
X2 Simple and don't forget to align the lights after installing.
Two other events you might do,
1. if going to halogen, either - install a 55A or more 10DN alt and electronic voltage regulator, or convert to 12SI alt.
2. add relay power for the headlamps because of wire loss of current from battery/alt to switch and back out to lamps - shorten the journey.
I previously installed a Powermaster amp w/internal voltage regulator. I want to say it's a 140 amp but may be a 100 amp. It's been a few years and I honestly can't remember. The car was set up as a 1 wire and I converted it to 3 wire when I installed the new alt.

I was going to install the relay harness but when I tested the voltage at the headlight with the engine running I got 14+ volts, only about 0.5 volt drop from the battery reading. I tested voltage at the batt, alt, horn bus, headlight connector plug and the headlight terminals. All at 14.x, so I'm going to forego the harness.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,457 Posts
I previously installed a Powermaster amp w/internal voltage regulator. I want to say it's a 140 amp but may be a 100 amp. It's been a few years and I honestly can't remember. The car was set up as a 1 wire and I converted it to 3 wire when I installed the new alt.

I was going to install the relay harness but when I tested the voltage at the headlight with the engine running I got 14+ volts, only about 0.5 volt drop from the battery reading. I tested voltage at the batt, alt, horn bus, headlight connector plug and the headlight terminals. All at 14.x, so I'm going to forego the harness.
Carl, did you test the voltage at the headlamps with the headlights turned on, that is the only way you will see the true voltage drop from the wiring resistance and headlamp load. You need to do so right at the headlamp socket with the headlamp plugged in and the headlights turned on. If you are testing that way and only getting a 0.5 volt drop, you must not have original wiring. Someone must have seriously upgraded it at some point in it's past?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
764 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Carl, did you test the voltage at the headlamps with the headlights turned on, that is the only way you will see the true voltage drop from the wiring resistance and headlamp load. You need to do so right at the headlamp socket with the headlamp plugged in and the headlights turned on. If you are testing that way and only getting a 0.5 volt drop, you must not have original wiring. Someone must have seriously upgraded it at some point in it's past?
Yep, tested at the bulb terminals with the lights on and engine running. And I know the wiring isn't factory because my car wasn't born an RS. I traced the wires from the headlight plug until they dissapeared in the harness that goes between the drivers side fender and wheel well, where I assume it continues on to the dash. I was surprised at the readings as well and tested it multiple times at different points and it seems to check out.

:confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,457 Posts
Yep, tested at the bulb terminals with the lights on and engine running. And I know the wiring isn't factory because my car wasn't born an RS. I traced the wires from the headlight plug until they dissapeared in the harness that goes between the drivers side fender and wheel well, where I assume it continues on to the dash. I was surprised at the readings as well and tested it multiple times at different points and it seems to check out.

:confused:
Well good deal for you :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,277 Posts
Yep, tested at the bulb terminals with the lights on and engine running. ...
With the bulbs in their sockets I hope (lights on == lights illuminated). Sounds like you've got it covered, but just want to be clear that you'll want to know the loaded voltage reading. Only by having a load can you tell if you've got a weak link that will cause dim headlamps.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
764 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Picked up the Silver Star halogens today. I'm still waiting on door hardware so I haven't permanantly installed them yet, but I did a temp connection to test the T3 against the halogen SS. Not surprisingly, it's dramatic.

So, the voltage loss from the battery to the SS headlight appears to be approximately 1.58 volts. I calculate that as a 8.87% loss. If I install a harness and regain, let's say 1.08 volts, would that equate to a similar gain in light output?

Does anyone think this is enough to make installing a harness worthwhile? What say you?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,515 Posts
Maybe turn on your heater, wipers, stereo etc and compare again. 1.6 volts is more than a 10% drop - substantial I'd say.

"Lighting systems engineering data has it that if we drop the voltage delivered to a light by 10%, then illumination out-put is reduced by over 30%." Quoted from: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/brighter-headlights.shtml
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,457 Posts
Picked up the Silver Star halogens today. I'm still waiting on door hardware so I haven't permanantly installed them yet, but I did a temp connection to test the T3 against the halogen SS. Not surprisingly, it's dramatic.

So, the voltage loss from the battery to the SS headlight appears to be approximately 1.58 volts. I calculate that as a 8.87% loss. If I install a harness and regain, let's say 1.08 volts, would that equate to a similar gain in light output?

Does anyone think this is enough to make installing a harness worthwhile? What say you?
I'd say that was a significant loss and if I were you, I'd install a headlamp relay harness for those new Sliver Stars. Your seeing a greater voltage drop than you were before due to the new Silver Stars creating a greater electrical load. You're losing available light but more important, your are taxing the headlamp wiring circuit due the the extra current the Silver Star headlamps draw.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
764 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Maybe turn on your heater, wipers, stereo etc and compare again. 1.6 volts is more than a 10% drop - substantial I'd say.

"Lighting systems engineering data has it that if we drop the voltage delivered to a light by 10%, then illumination out-put is reduced by over 30%." Quoted from: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/brighter-headlights.shtml
Excellent article! Thanks for the link. I think I will do the upgrade.

I'd say that was a significant loss and if I were you, I'd install a headlamp relay harness for those new Sliver Stars. Your seeing a greater voltage drop than you were before due to the new Silver Stars creating a greater electrical load. You're losing available light but more important, your are taxing the headlamp wiring circuit due the the extra current the Silver Star headlamps draw.
I agree Brian, thanks. I see the mod (Brian #2? :D) made a sticky and asked you to post pics if you have them. I would find these very helpful. If you didn't take pics I can do that during my conversion but would ask for some guidance through the process.

In addition to the standard harness kit what additional parts would I need to make it work on a '67? Obviously another relay (specs would be appreciated), wire (14 gauge work?), etc...

I'll order everything once I get a parts list. This will be fun and helpful in another way - I'm the newsletter editor for the local Camaro club and have been doing it long enough now that I'm running out of material! This will make a good write up.

:beers:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
32,606 Posts
Twelve wire gauge and standard Bosch 30 amp relays would work very well.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top