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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For a change of pace, we've switched from working on our
'69's body (80%done) to the subframe. we'd like to completely disassemble it and rebuild it.
Pardon me if I name a part incorrectly, I'm no suspension expert and I haven't read the assembly manual yet.
We've removed the engine, tranny, crossmember, steering box, and shocks. I've rented the spring compressor and have read up again on the procedure
(I already replaced the front springs on my '68).
The subframe looks mostly original, the upper balljoints(?) still have rivets.
I've soaked all the bolts and nuts with penetrant.
When I tried to remove the swaybar bracket bolts, swaybar to lower control arm(?) bolts, engine mounting bolts, etc., they are either frozen or just spin.
Am I wasting time trying to get them out intact?
Should I just cut or burn them off to save time?
Any other tips would be very appreciated.
TIA,
 

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the swaybar to lower control arm (end links) bushings come with new bolts so i would burn them. if you are going original keep working at them if not i would and have cut most of them! the motor mounts are the hardest i think because there are nuts inside the frame for all 3 bolts. the control arm bolt i would not cut unless your buying new ones all the bolts you want to wrench out hit with pb blaster and go at it
 

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The nuts where the swaybar brackets bolt to the frame often break loose. Drill em or grind thru the heads.

There is enough room thru the spring pocket to get a nut and washer in there when you put it back together (make sure you bolt the swaybar to the frame FIRST!) There may even be enough room to aim a mig in the and zap on another nut.

The lower control arm bushing bolts can be a BEETCH! The inner sleeve of the bushing will have rusted to the bolt. Sometimes, the only way out is to go in between the a-arm and the subframe on both sides with a sawzall, cut clean thru, outer sleeve, rubber bushing, inner sleeve and bolt.

You want to pop the ball joints first. Loosen (but do not remove) the nuts, then rap the side of the spindle with a hammer. The spring will help, and a dozen good whacks should pop the joints. If they don't pop, you'll have to rent either a pickle fork or a ball joint separator. The separator is preferred, it kinda looks like a miniature vise.

Getting the springs out is tough without the cars weight to help. Most of the spring fits up into the spring pocket, not much hanging down to get a spring compressor on. The kind that can go inside the spring will work, but it's tough getting it in there. A length of all-thread down thru the shock hole and bolted to a metal bar under the lower control arm is probably easiest.

Next time, take all this apart while you have the full wieght of the car and motor to help.
 

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are you re-using the springs?
if not, after you use the spring pressure to pop the balljoints loose, just take the fire wrench and cut the springs.
why waste time and effort when you don't need to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
are you re-using the springs?
if not, after you use the spring pressure to pop the balljoints loose, just take the fire wrench and cut the springs.
why waste time and effort when you don't need to?
Great idea.
Do I still have to chain the spring before cutting? Or will it always stay in place when cut with the cutting torch?
 
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