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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,
I just finished installing the 8 injector Super Sniper with the complete Hyperpark ignition system on my ProCharged small block. I still have a lot to learn as I have only fired it up a few times so far, but I have learned a lot already and am happy to share. There seems to be very little info out there, particularly for boosted, so if you have any questions let me know. Also let me know if you have any advice. :grin2:

If anyone is interested I am happy to share my experience so far.
 

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Greg, I would love to hear about your experience so far.
I have considered going with EFI eventually, and since I built the motor with boost in mind It would be great to hear how thats gone for you if I ever pull the trigger on a blower.

The issue I have had with EFI is horsepower rating, even if I stay NA most of the kits are less than 500 or 600 horse it seems and my NA combo should exceed that. That is besides a Big Stuff which is way too much. That’s kind of been the reason I’ve stayed carbureted. And to be honest, my carb works great, it would just be nice to get the additional drivability of EFI.
But if EFI is its own set of hassles it may not be worth it to me.

Thanks!
 

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Hey Sean,

I had the same thought process. I always wanted EFI some day but multi port was way too expensive and throttle body either didn't support boost or didn't support my HP level (about 750 at the crank). Then I heard about the Super Sniper 1250. It supports up to 1250 HP and boost. I loved my carb but the thing was dead rich at cruise. I basically had to set it up for the AFR I wanted at WOT and it stayed the same at cruise. I also wanted something that could adjust to the wild weather swings I experience. I am sure some will chime in and say "you could tune the carb". I don't disagree but it is not as easy as it sounds. What put me over the top was watching the Steve Morris video where he says if you buy from him he will sell you the tune for $99.

I ordered the system and the fun began. lol. I was a step ahead of the game because due to being boosted I already had an EFI capable fuel system. Sumped fuel tank, electric pump capable of high pressure, return style regulator, etc. All I had to do was get a high pressure spring for my regulator and I was good to go for the fuel system.

The thing I can't stress enough is the EFI systems are very particular to wiring and electro magnetic interference (EMI). In order to give myself the best chance of success and keep it as simple as possible I removed a perfectly good MSD box and went with the whole Hyperspark ignition system. That includes a CD box, coil and Hall affect distributor. The wiring is all plug and play. Technically you can use a mag distributor, but they are problematic for EMI.

Most of us hot rodders are scared to death of wiring...me included. But I took my time....it took weeks to get it installed. I spent a lot of time thinking about wire routing, etc. I spent 50% of the time just staring at the engine bay for the first day or two. Invest in some decent crimpers and wire strippers before you get started and follow the directions to the letter.

I did have one major hiccup. I got the system all installed and wired and the first time I turned the key I heard size, pop and an cloud of smoke rose from the engine bay. The unit had a skinned wire and a dead short in the factory harness. Not my fault at all....defective product. I sent it back to Holley and they replaced it right away.

Along the way I ran into some install bumps. The throttle lever ratio is different on the Sniper and all 4 blades moves at the same time. It is not progressive like a carb so the right foot experience is stiff and hard to control, especially with a stick. I read a lot and learned you should install a Demon Carb throttle lever extension to keep a good pedal feel. Once mine arrived I found out the factory throttle rod linkage on my Camaro would not work but I found a Mr. Gasket linkage bushing kit to remedy that. All of it had to be ground down a bit to fit and if anyone has the same issue I can get them part numbers and pictures.

So i got the new unit on, ran the startup wizard on the handheld then loaded the Steve Morris tune using the laptop. The thing fired on the first rotation...and it was about 30 degrees! I was so excited. After it got up to temp it would randomly stumble, almost shut off, then recover but the idle would race to 2,000 then fall back. Then, when I turned the key off....the car kept running! I had to disconnect the fuel pump relay to get it to shut off. I saved a data log and sure enough, EMI all over the place when it stumbled.

Hmmm.... i called Holley and they said to wire the trigger wires for the ECU, CD box and distributor to a relay with clean 12V power rather then connect it at the IGN spade on the fuse panel like their video shows. I did that....and it still wouldn't turn off until I disconnected the fuel pump relay.

I then called a buddy of mine and he immediately said "oh, you need to install the MSD diode if you have run on. I have to do that on all my cars". Well, I had an MSD on it before and never had run on. But I still had the diode that came with the kit so I gave it a try. Man, that was the huge breakthrough. The car immediately ran smoother, no stumbles and it turned off with the key!

The interesting thing is no one at Holley support seemed to know anything about the diodes but I am going to recommend it to anyone installing the Sniper. It sure cleaned mine up. No more EMI in the logs.

Sorry for the novel, but I hope it will help the next guy. I wish I had found some of this advice out there. Especially about the diode.

As I said, I am still very early on. To date I have just been garage tuning. The weather has been bad so no test drives and certainly no track time yet, but that will come soon.
 

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Awesome info Greg, thanks! Interesting about the EMI, we used to have to watch that on the controllers for the nitrous systems and delay boxes, so that makes sense. Great info!

If you don’t mind me asking, what’s the electronics alone run to purchase?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The 8 injector system is about $1500. The Hyperspark dizzy, cd box and coil will add about $500 more.
 

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Just a quick update. The diode helped with the run on and most of the EMI but I still had a little but of interference until I properly grounded everything. Short version is run a ground cable from the battery directly to the engine even if the battery is in the trunk.

A great how-to here:
 
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Thanks for the added input Greg! So have you had luck setting the tune and using it so far?
 

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Everything is running fine cruising around town. I am just waiting for the weather to cooperate so I can get to the track for WOT testing. The season started 2 weeks ago but it has rained us out every time so far. :(

It will be a couple of weeks before I have another opportunity.
 

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I’ll be interested to hear the results Greg!

It’s been the same here, our weather is all out of wack, really dry mild winter, then in February we got epic snow (for here), freezing weather then we had a couple weeks of spring weather, and now it’s been raining most of April off and on. Craziness.
 

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I finally made it to the track. Unfortunately I missed all of the good cool weather as it was 92 degrees last night! The good news is the Super Sniper performed flawlessly. I really couldn't be happier. I didn't set the world on fire in terms of e.t. but I had a VERY conservative tune in it since it was my first time out.

I was mainly worried about two things. First was the frequent cranking and shut down as you are inching along in the staging lanes. On the street I had been having some issues with hot starting. It would tend to flood but I tweaked the starting fuel map and IAC and it worked great.

Second was the hit right out of the hole. It did great as well. No bog at all. On my second pass I had some tire spin and had to pedal it quickly and that went fine as well.

Air fuel ratio was very stable in the data log throughout the run.

I drove the car to and from the track with no issues so I am very happy with it. Now I will start turning up the wick a bit and see what it will do!
 

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I am in the process of wiring and plumbing my Holley Stealth Terminator EFI system on a 67 Camaro. I am running the stock distributer, Pertronix II, mild Lunatti cam, and mid-length headers. Where do you suggest mounting the ECU? Other than mounting the battery in the trunk are there any other ways to minimize EMI?
 

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Don't know that I can help much...the Sniper has the ECU inside the throttle body. On the drag cars I have seen the Dominator ECU is mounted on the roll bars at the passenger door.

In the video linked above I believe he shows his ECU location.

I think in general just keep the trigger and sensor wires away from the coil and spark plug wires.
 

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Thanks for the great writeup. I'm also thinking of making the switch from carb to EFI on my '69. I've done quite a bit of EFI tuning on Fords for a second or third living and pretty tempted to make the leap. Pros and cons to everything of course, lol. Really would like to go boosted though and looking for the best setup for that. Sorry for digging up an old thread but in all fairness it was still on the first page :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Holley just released the Sniper 4150 system which looks really nice. Looks just like a carb! If you go boosted you want the "Super" Sniper. Still loving mine!
 

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Does the Sniper include a wideband or are most using a wideband and logging AFR to see how well it is adjusting for load?

I’m curious as to how well it is adjusting for it if anyone can give some feedback.. say at idle, cruising, & WOT
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It has a single wide band and adjusts almost instantly when in closed loop. You set the target AFR at various RPM and vacuum/boost settings and it will adjust and learn to that target.
 
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