[Cinc]

Recently picked up a 1967 w/ a 327. Previous owner told me the suspension was all stock. Upon further inspection I found a schrader valve under the rear bumper going to air shocks, and what looks like traction bars. Also found something odd on my front springs.

1) Can anyone identify what is actually on my rear suspension and what kins of rear shocks actually are? (pictures cam1, 2, and 3)
2) What psi should I run in the air shocks? Are they simply to adjust stance or also drive-ability?
3) What are the things on my front springs? Are they simply a poor mans way to lower the front a little bit? (pictures cam4, and 5)
4) Lastly, when I removed the air filter, I was surprise to see the Holley carb had no manual or electric choke. It looks like it was just removed all together. It fires right up and drives fine. Is it normal for chokes to be removed on 1st gen Camaros w/ 327? (pictures cam6, and 7)

Thanks all, I really appreciate the assistance.

 

[Vega$69]

Basically the things you are finding are a result of Bubba did it.

 

[fairfax1000]

Recently picked up a 1967 w/ a 327. Previous owner told me the suspension was all stock. Upon further inspection I found a schrader valve under the rear bumper going to air shocks, and what looks like traction bars. Also found something odd on my front springs.

1) Can anyone identify what is actually on my rear suspension and what kins of rear shocks actually are? (pictures cam1, 2, and 3)
2) What psi should I run in the air shocks? Are they simply to adjust stance or also drive-ability?
3) What are the things on my front springs? Are they simply a poor mans way to lower the front a little bit? (pictures cam4, and 5)
4) Lastly, when I removed the air filter, I was surprise to see the Holley carb had no manual or electric choke. It looks like it was just removed all together. It fires right up and drives fine. Is it normal for chokes to be removed on 1st gen Camaros w/ 327? (pictures cam6, and 7)

Thanks all, I really appreciate the assistance.

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That is some classic backwoods engineering.
The missing choke plate and it running fine when cold? That’s a ton of fuel that shouldn’t be.
The air shocks? Most likely Gabriel Hi Jackers or some version straight out of 1967. I would replace them with standard replacement from the auto parts store.
Those traction bars are janky and are a safety issue. I would get the correct parts
Those u bolt clamps on the front springs? Looks like the right front coil is broken. Safety issue.
I have driven some bad stuff in my time. I wouldn’t drive this until everything is correct and safe. I shudder to think of what else you’ll find.
Keep us informed. Ask away.

 

[allanjs]

Yep, like John said Bubba's been at it again. The front springs are shot and by the look of the first spring pic it's broken. That can be very dangerous. Air shocks are for ride height adjustment or to make up for shot leaf springs when used on a 1st gen.
Edit: After further viewing the right side spring pic, the sway bar end link is missing a bushing and what remains is toast. I have to ask, did you buy this car sight unseen?

 

[Cinc]

Thanks fellas. Yes, sight unseen. But don't judge too harshly because I got a screaming deal and knew I would find issues - and I am prepared to correct Bubba's mistakes. I really appreciate the insight.

 

[fairfax1000]

Thanks fellas. Yes, sight unseen. But don't judge too harshly because I got a screaming deal and knew I would find issues - and I am prepared to correct Bubba's mistakes. I really appreciate the insight.

Keep posting……we’ll keep answering. Can we get pictures of the VIV and Trim tag for the database? Maybe pictures of the car?

 

[FbodyMike]

Hate to say it, if you found this stuff, there's likely more you haven't found yet.

Replace the front coils and get rid of the hillbilly "budget front lowering kit." Throw the HiJackers in the trash were they belonged 50 years ago (ohr whenever they came out with them). Your going to need all new shocks. Replace the monoleafs with 3-leafs (it'll ride better and handle better without need to convert the perches to mutli-leaf). And all new bushings, balljoints, etc. are in order (yours are all dry-rotted). Basically you need a front/rear suspension rebuild. Fairfax is not exaggerating. Don't drive this thing until you fix it.

As for the carb, idle is running pretty rich if it starts great cold with no choke plate (especially without annular boosters). He's probably put a higher heat range plug in it to keep it from completely fouling. You're risking washing down the cylinder walls with that setup, which will reduce engine durability considerably. Wouldn't be surprised if your oil has a gas smell to it. A new carb with a choke and properly tuned along with fresh plugs in the correct heat range, will run even better and last much longer.

 

[fairfax1000]

Yep, like John said Bubba's been at it again. The front springs are shot and by the look of the first spring pic it's broken. That can be very dangerous. Air shocks are for ride height adjustment or to make up for shot leaf springs when used on a 1st gen.
Edit: After further viewing the right side spring pic, the sway bar end link is missing a bushing and what remains is toast. I have to ask, did you buy this car sight unseen?

Do I see the vacuum advance plugged into the correct place?🫣🫣

 

[fairfax1000]

Hate to say it, if you found this stuff, there's likely more you haven't found yet.

Replace the front coils and get rid of the hillbilly "budget front lowering kit." Throw the HiJackers in the trash were they belonged 50 years ago (ohr whenever they came out with them). Your going to need all new shocks. Replace the monoleafs with 3-leafs (it'll ride better and handle better without need to convert the perches to mutli-leaf). And all new bushings, balljoints, etc. are in order (yours are all dry-rotted). Basically you need a front/rear suspension rebuild. Fairfax is not exaggerating. Don't drive this thing until you fix it.

As for the carb, idle is running pretty rich if it starts great cold with no choke plate (especially without annular boosters). He's probably put a higher heat range plug in it to keep it from completely fouling. You're risking washing down the cylinder walls with that setup, which will reduce engine durability considerably. Wouldn't be surprised if your oil has a gas smell to it. A new carb with a choke and properly tuned along with fresh plugs in the correct heat range, will run even better and last much longer.

Agree with pretty much except the single leaf springs will do just fine for daily or fun driving around cruising. It’s whatever you want, but three leafs will just fit right in Without modification. You wont have any idea how it sits properly until you remove the unnecessary stuff.
Interestingly enough, when I got my car back in 86, there was a 3 leaf on the right side and a mono on the left. Dunno…

 

[FbodyMike]

Agree with pretty much except the single leaf springs will do just fine for daily or fun driving around cruising. It’s whatever you want, but three leafs will just fit right in Without modification. You wont have any idea how it sits properly until you remove the unnecessary stuff.
Interestingly enough, when I got my car back in 86, there was a 3 leaf on the right side and a mono on the left. Dunno…

Agree that singles (in good condition) are fine for cruising. Given the state of the rest of the suspension, and the fact they put HiJackers on , the current ones are very likely sagging; their bushings are shot like the rest, the ones on the OP's car need replacing anyway. The 3 leafs are bolt-ins and are little to no additional cost over mono-replacements.

 

[dyno jonn]

Traction bars that push up on the leaf instead of under the spring eye are trash. Get some others if you plan on spinning tires.

 

[fairfax1000]

Agree that singles (in good condition) are fine for cruising. Given the state of the rest of the suspension, and the fact they put HiJackers on , the current ones are very likely sagging; their bushings are shot like the rest, the ones on the OP's car need replacing anyway. The 3 leafs are bolt-ins and are little to no additional cost over mono-replacements.

We will find out soon.

 

[Just 1 More]

I wouldn't call it "Bubba" .. heck, That's how we did it back in the 70's & 80's

 

[StevieBB54]

It looks like someone made a homemade spring compressor and forgot to remove them lol. I remember back in the day the cool thing was to install Gabrial hijackers to get tire clearance. I remember installing these twist in spring spacers on my 442 to get the front end up higher. $50-$60 was hard to come by. Agree these pics are just the tip of the ice berg.

 

[Cinc]

Thanks everyone; very good advice and no I’m not driving it, that was very clear when I took it for a test ride. VIN: 124377L153356

 

[Michael Eusebi]

Everything you have shown can be fixed so I wouldn't worry, it will cost money non the less. As others have said I would not drive. I would be really concerned about filler in the body, rotten frame rails, body mounts rusted out, twisted body, bracing cut or removed. The latter cost more money.

 

[SinisterSpeed]

Great looking car! I recently bought my 67 about 10 months ago. It too looked good from the outside and suspension was just wore out, dry rotted, springs were sacked out. So bad that 3 weeks after I got it 2 of the bushing fell completely out making it completely undrivable. I did some asking and checking around. I ended up going with the RideTech street grip kit + pro forged steering components.
All in all it came to about $3500 and replaced everything you see is damaged or worn out here too.

StreetGrip includes for about $3000: F/R springs (lowered 2"), all the necessary suspension bushings, shocks, 1 1/8" sway bar with new end links, 1" rear lowering kit.
Front Proforged steering links, pitman arm was another $300 + Alignment
I opted to also add new body bushing while I was at it. They were also dried and needed replaced.

If I had it to do over, I'd also add the new tubular upper/lower control arms. Those would have helped to get a good alignment. I found you really should do offset upper shafts while you have it apart for the upper control arm bushings if you're using the stock upper control arms and tall ball joints.

After all that, car drivers great and it's again safe to drive.

 

[Cinc]

I was literally just looking at the RideTech Street Grip kit! Can I dm you for more details on parts, etc?

 

[SinisterSpeed]

Of course.

I have a couple posts from when I was in the same spot you're in now. I had some great input from others on them.
Talked quite a bit about suspension set ups on this one #post-1783295336
This was specifically related to spoilers but ride height, springs, pictures were in there so it might also be helpful #post-483971/page-2

 

[Indyguy]

Keep posting……we’ll keep answering. Can we get pictures of the VIV and Trim tag for the database? Maybe pictures of the car?

What "Database" ?

Nice looking car BTW, you can have some fun with it and work through the issues as you drive it.