Team Camaro Tech banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,856 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
the watt rating of a T3 bulb is 40/60 watts with a 3.1/4.7 amp load

I was considering using these, 45/55 watts with 3.5/4.3 amp load

https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-SilverStar-Headlight-Performance-Replacement/dp/B000COCTWG/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Chevrolet|47&Model=Camaro|432&Year=1967|1967&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=11&vehicleType=automotive

Not any real difference in "load" between the 2 so I assume the stock wiring is fine vs adding relays

I understand if the stock wiring has to much line loss than relays help reduce that but in terms of "load" comparison it appears the Silverstar linked above does not "add" any more load than a stock T3 incandescent bulb and should work fine using stock headlight harness
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
13,989 Posts
I've used Silverstars on several cars with stock harness ans NO relays. Works fine and certainly brighter than T3s
 
  • Like
Reactions: SoCal805

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,248 Posts
Here was a test I did a couple years back comparing an original T3 to a Wagner Halogen and then to a reproduction T3:



You have to watch how these companies rate things. Different voltages will give different results. Sometimes you may think you are comparing apples to apples but in reality you are not.

A conversation on another site:

amps - headlights | NastyZ28.com

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,856 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I understand "watts, amps, lumens (aka FC), color temperature (Kelvin)" as my day job is Lighting Director (stage, TV)

In terms of "light output" you want to compare lumens from one type of lamp to another but generally lumens are not what is advertised under automotive bulb specs. Typically watts or color temp are what is noted and amps. You can have a lower watt bulb "x" produce more lumens at = distance than a higher watt bulb "y" so you really need to compare the photometrics. In my line of work the various lamps I use all have lumens at "x" feet & beam spread, graphs, etc. in their stat listings

But back to the Silverstar H2064. They are spec and = amp load, actually slightly less in high beam than the T3 incandescent but I was asking the ? because in search on this forum there were several OMG posts you need to use relays for them and other posts saying not needed. I sense in reading the posts some owners had corrupted wiring where line loss was their issue at the headlight plug so there was more resistance thus greater load overall on the headlight switch and under dash fuse block when switching to a Halogen bulb or higher wattage bulb

I will check VDC at my lamp plugs to see what actual is but I do not suspect (.xx) much if any before the swap. If there is I would correct the "why" (cause).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,654 Posts
I have silver stars in mine. No problem, and no relay. I do however have a new AAW original harness, so the wiring bus in great shape .
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
13,989 Posts
The purpose of a relay is to get full Batt Voltage to the component.

If you’re already getting it at the headlight socket not much to be gained unless the Halogen is drawing more amperage then the wire size can handle resulting in the lights being dimmer.

I don’t see the Silverstars drawing any more than the repop T3
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
32,451 Posts
The problem of not running relays is the current travels once in to the switch then back out to socket.
There is resistance of the wires involved, given off as heat, and switch contacts as they will be dirty due to carbon pile-up over the years of turning them off/on.
Every time the contacts get close enough, an arc is generated thus depositing carbon onto the contact. Get enough carbon, resistance is carbon, then more current given off as heat, less power/current at socket.
Think of all the contacts of the wire sockets involved also.
Having relays installed shortens the wire length and the number of contacts the current travels through.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
13,989 Posts
Everett is correct. Now if you have a new floor dimmer and how often to you night drive and are switching from low beam to high and back and forth. May take years and years for there to be enough arcing to cause resistance that will effect performance.

All things to consider.

J
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,503 Posts
When you use relays you move the arcing from the switch to the relay. Basic reliability theory states the more components in a system the less reliable that system is....

Don
 
  • Like
Reactions: yellow69RS

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,071 Posts
When you use relays you move the arcing from the switch to the relay. Basic reliability theory states the more components in a system the less reliable that system is....

Don
Very true, the decision is a toss up, but I would rather trust quality Bosch relays to handle the low and high beam load instead of the cheap aftermarket light and dimmer switches.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,503 Posts
Very true, the decision is a toss up, but I would rather trust quality Bosch relays to handle the low and high beam load instead of the cheap aftermarket light and dimmer switches.
Let’s keep in mind that 99% of the cars on this forum are not daily drivers. Most never see rain and many are not even driven at night. How many cycles of the headlight switch does the average first gen Camaro on this site see per year?

I’m going to rate this right up there with the Ford starter relay and hot trunk battery cable dogma....

Don
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,821 Posts
Very true, the decision is a toss up, but I would rather trust quality Bosch relays to handle the low and high beam load instead of the cheap aftermarket light and dimmer switches.
It's not just the switch/relay discussion that would impact reliability. It's also the 3-5 more electrical connections/splices that would be required to add the relays to the headlight circuits.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,856 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Appreciate the comments. the 6024's draw the same amps as T3's...and Chevy, back in 1st gen years, did not use relays for the headlights. I chose to just swap in the 6024's. They are certainly brighter in lumens and color temp so should work better at night.

If going with a lamp that draws a heavier load than, IMHO, that would be a "add relay" situation...YMMV

One light I had was a "T3", IDK if original or re-pop, and the other just a generic incandescent PAR 56. In unplugging the T3 one terminal stayed in the plug and I could hear the air leak from the lamp and the other also. The 6024's were plug & play on install. I had marked center beam with tape on my garage wall before swap and the Silverstars were both on same marks. Will see if any adjustment is needed when it gets dark
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
19,844 Posts
I added the Silverstars….nice upgrade, and then added the relays...major jump over stock and better than just the headlights.

Do the relays :yes:


The "kit" I used plugged right into the stock connector with the hot wire at the busbar. more/better voltage.


Like this... https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Headlight-Relay-Harness-Kit,58825.html?sku=910342630&msclkid=ddcc37c842e51d0f58576a0b01b0c8a7&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SMI - Shopping (CSE) (Bing)&utm_term=4577404346894473&utm_content=All Products (Oct4_2019)


Or make your own.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,856 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I added the Silverstars….nice upgrade, and then added the relays...major jump over stock and better than just the headlights.

Do the relays :yes:]
I metered 13.8 VDC at the headlight plug, engine on, on high beam...so didn't see a need for relays

what VDC do you have with relays??
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,503 Posts
I metered 13.8 VDC at the headlight plug, engine on, on high beam...so didn't see a need for relays

what VDC do you have with relays??
Good to see some real data!

Don
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
13,989 Posts
I added the Silverstars….nice upgrade, and then added the relays...major jump over stock and better than just the headlights.

Do the relays :yes:
Doug, What was the condition of your wiring and switches before you added the relay harness?

And did you measure befroe and after voltage to the headlight connector?
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
19,844 Posts
Doug, What was the condition of your wiring and switches before you added the relay harness?

And did you measure befroe and after voltage to the headlight connector?
Only thing I did was to add the "plug and play" harness. You unplug the headlights, plug the harness into the headlight plug, attach the power wire to the busbar, and done.
Never checked anything else.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
222 Posts
I metered 13.8 VDC at the headlight plug, engine on, on high beam...so didn't see a need for relays

what VDC do you have with relays??
It's not really the volts you worry about, it is the amp draw that you need to worry about. Too many amps across a switch that can't handle it or undersized wire and they will burn up or arc and burn up.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
13,989 Posts
It's not really the volts you worry about, it is the amp draw that you need to worry about. Too many amps across a switch that can't handle it or undersized wire and they will burn up or arc and burn up.
If the 6024 Silverstars draw the same as the T-3 then it’s not a factor in the equation.
 
  • Like
Reactions: EVL SS and SoCal805
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top