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Discussion Starter #1
Were these engines ever made with 4 bolt mains? I found one that was in an old school bus (still mounted in what's left of the frame of the bus). I haven't pulled the pan yet and I couldn't seem to locate a stamping anywhere. Where the pad is typically found in front of the pass. side head that seems to be a mounting location for the water pump. Is there another place the stampings are located?

I found the engine casting number on the back of the block and it says that it's a 010 block which means 350. It has a very large damper on it. It also has 010 cast on the pass. side of the block.

Is this engine worth purchasing for the block and crank for $125? I would be guessing in thinking that the heads probably aren't worth anything.
 

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Why not. The larger balancer is a good sign. Do you know how long it's been sitting?

The good news is, the bus was probably kept on a good maintenance schedule, as most all are.

Good luck!
 

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I would pull the pan first. I helped a friend install one in 1980 and I'm almost positive it was a 2 bolt main. I don't think the balancer means anything, the engine was not sold with one. The balancer came off of the old engine in the bus. The one thing that really stands out in my mind is the Blazer we put it in was gutless with the target master.
 

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target master will be a 4 bolt main with 8.5 compression and a very mild cam.
if you cam it up and put on better heads 300-330 hp very streetable rev limit to 5800 rpm (cast pistons)
 

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Bolt on some vortec heads along with a mild cam and those target engines can run real good!
 

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the 010 is often a 4 bolt main but not always. I have 6 010 blocks at my home and 2 of them had their original Forged steel cranks. All of the 350s had forged rods, just make sure they're straight and usable. These motors are good blocks for rebuilds. A 350 with 9:1 compr piston, Edelbrock intake, good cam, 600cfm carb and Vortec heads will get you 350-375+hp easy. Most target master engines I have seen were 4 bolt mains and some with steel cranks. I would pay $125 for a decent block with some good usable factory parts in/on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I told him I would take if it was a four bolt. I will be buying the entire short block for $125. That includes the damper and flywheel. I think it would be a good deal if its the four bolt. Then I disasemble it for cleaning and machine work. I figure new vortec's and a 274 cam with my RPM Air Gap and 650 AVS I should be close to where I want to be. My mark was somewhere between 400-450HP. It'll be a good setup.
 

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The Target Master motor started off with the great little old -929 cam in them. At 195/202, 112/108, .390"/.410" lift.

I think as they ran out of them, they probably ended up with a newer, little old 305 motor cam that took it's place.

pdq67
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The engine is labeled a "350 Target Master" engine. This was marked on the valve covers. The block itself is a 3970010 with the "010" on both sides of the block and under the timing cover. Also under the timing cover was "G20."
I was finally able to find a stamping on the underside of the block where the starter would be bolted. The stamping is "VE1277289." Is there anything anyone can tell me about this engine? It is a four bolt main with a nodular crank "PN 3932442" which I found in my chevy by the numbers book to be a replacement crank. The engine itself appears to be a virgin, meaning no prior boring and the rod and main bearings are standard. I guess I was under the impression that the target master motors were previously used blocks.

The engine was mounted in what was left of a 1968 school bus. The frame was really the only thing left. The motor was covered and is in decent shape. It turned over easily and has maybe .002-.003 of a lip at the top of the cylinders.
 

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I believe Target Master 350 was the 4bolt main replacement motor for years until it was replaced with the GoodWrench 350 motor even though there are slight differences between the two.
 

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Even if the engine was assembled with a forged crank. Check it before you buy it if thats one of the reasons your interested. There was a scam here years back where dishonest mechanics were taking the good cranks out and putting cast in them. the cranks were bringing about $175.00 which was 1/2 a weeks pay for some of the idiots that were taking them. I don't know the whole story but from what I was told they would always come up with a reason to have to get in the pan. Guess the guys who were suppose to supervise were not aware or something. :( I would still take it for $125.00 though if it was buildable steel crank or not.
 

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"The stamping is VE1277289." Flint Engine December 1977 289= the last three numbers of the part number for that style engine.
 
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