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Discussion Starter #1
Gentlemen,

I have a 68 Camaro and I am relocating the battery to trunk. I bought the Taylor kit with battery box. I dont think this box with enclosure will work after noticing that the holes necessary for the threaded rods are not accesible from underneath the car. The outer rod would be in the rear fender well.. Am I doing this wrong or just not meant to be

Lou
68 Camaro-383 Stroker
 

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Many have installed a battery in the trunk long ways behind the right rear tire well. The battery has to be secured properly as a battery weighs around forty five pounds and if you use a couple of 1/4-20 bolts to hold it down it will either pull out if the box is plastic or actually pull through the floor pan if not reinforced with a couple of large diameter washers to distribute the load.

Second issue is properly venting the battery box. If the box is plastic (I use a Moller sealed marine grade battery box) I put a universal steel battery mounting frame inside of the plastic box

(http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Battery-Trays/1670661/10002/-1)

to bolt through the steel battery frame and the trunk floor pan. This way the frame is secured and I bolt the battery down to the frame using the round wire retainer and threaded 5/16-18 rods that come with the battery mounting kit. Then I use rubber grommets to seal the wires at the box and run a clear PVC schedule 10 pipe from the box through a hole in the trunk.

If you are using a gel cell such as the Optima I don't believe they have to be vented, and if you are going to use a fuel cell in the trunk you will need to replace the factory tar paper with either a sheet of mild steel or aluminum between the trunk and the rear seat any way so that doesn't require a vented battery box either.

I use Moroso bulkhead connectors rather than rubber grommets to run battery cables through sheet metal as I want zero risk of a cable grounding out and causing a fire. If you have ever experienced tire shake you know how violently the car shakes so it doesn't take much imagination to see that rubber grommet and plastic insulation getting sliced through.

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The rods that go through the trunk floor.. If I drill holes for them I cant see them from under the car..
 

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Mounting the battery box over the frame rail works and is NHRA approved.
I used 3/8 inch threaded rod, NHRA recommended, through the frame rail with a U-shape plate for each rod and bolted them to the rail
Then bolt the tray to the floor.
Then use battery holder for the top.
Al's suggestion is good, but turn the battery 90° so less of the plates are uncovered during forward motion, if you have a liquid battery, gels don't care.
Also, you tune weight to make the car work by moving it forward or backward for momentum and weight transfer.
For X amount of battery weight, the longer lever from the rear axle means more transfer of weight.
 

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I use 1/4 rivnuts (threaded inserts) to bolt it to the shelf where you can't access the bottom. Pretty solid

Don't know if it's NHRA approved but I don't track my cars anyway
 

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Discussion Starter #8
was just going to ask about nut inserts... I have 9 inches between the battery box holes where threaded rod goes.. when i measure its not even close to being able to access. very frustrating and thanks for the information
have to brain storm and take a step away
 

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Also, NHRA says if battery in trunk, trunk has to be sealed from pass compartment.
Rear seat acceptable, if no seat, then alum sheet metal, 0.030 thick, I believe, and pop rivet onto rear frame.
You also have to seal the wheel house area from trunk side.
Battery cable can be ran through door sill on pass side. Fits real nice.
Either bulkhead fitting through firewall or grommet for cable through to starter.
I used 4/0 welding cable and soldered copper terminals onto ends.
By NHRA rules, if battery in trunk, cutoff switch on positive cable is a must.
Also, you should run alternator sense wire to isolated terminal of cutoff switch so alt can charge battery. Or, if mech regulated, crank up voltage at regulator.
Ground cable should be attached to engine and unibody.

Food for thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have a few questions and hope to get a few answers..lol

1) Does the 3/8 rod have to be mounted through frame rail
2) Ford Solenoid, do I have to mount in trunk or can I mount on firewall?
3) What is the wiring diagram for Cut Off Switch for Battery with Ford Solenoid

Also, I ran the positive cable through the trunk floor, along the frame rail up to firewall and a small section crosses over fuel line underneath, is that ok?

Anybody's time is much appreciated. Thanks
Lou
 
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