As a sidenote, I got my shifting issues worked out. Turns out my mph on my trans tables was off by about 5 mph and it was causing all hell to break loose at WOT. Its fixed now so next time the car should see some honest mid 11s cam only. Waiting for the heat to die down some.
Fast Forward: Went back to the track this past friday. Finally got the car off the limiter. Best run was still about 11.8x. Couldn't get it to go any faster. I had a new best 60ft of around 1.58 and a new best trap of 115. DA was about 1650 at the time of the runs. Couldn't seem to get the ETs down though. My only 2 vids from that night are ****ty but I will link one from someone else:
Fast Forward Again: Well we headed back out. Car ran a new best, but still had more in it. Couldn't get it to leave good. Here are the slips in order:
1.73......7.62/90.8...........11.93/113.9 Spun some out of the hole.
4th Trip out: Track altitude: about 250 ft, DA for the night: about 2250. Yeah it was muggy with about 80-90% humidity. But we ran anyway for fun. Car ran good for the weather I thought, and pulled the driver tire 6-8 inches every run. Felt awesome :drive:
Here's how the slips stacked up:
And a couple of vids:
Since the last run it has a Fast92, AI 243s, PA Racing K member, Midwest bumper supports F+R, Strange 12 bolt. I was running about 3/4 tank of gas and an ice chest in the back. I know the 12 bolt is slowing me down some (over the previous runs) but I drove home so it's worth it Car is also tuned by a rookie tuner (me) and is set to conservatively shift around 6400. It ran exactly how you would find it any day on the street. Nothing added or subtracted.
Have run recently about 10 more passes. Changes are: Lightweight battery, Midwest chassis drag bar, speed inc carpet, sjm abs delete, firecore50 wires.....ET streets are bald and it was acting funky coming out of the hole but I did get a new personal best, 1.56 60ft, [email protected] Track wasn't running 1/4 at the time but I'm predicting it was a legitimate 11.30 pass. New changes are removing inner fender supports, removing front sway bar, aluminum radiator, and a full 17"Racestar setup. Inching closer to 10s NA I hope.
Here's some eye candy:
Stock carpet ready to be pulled:
Pulled the gauges to delete the idiot lights:
Letting the new carpet breathe, it does still have some padding under it, but it is a little louder then stock:
Truth be told, the radiator swap and inner fender cutting was a kill two birds with one stone kind of deal. The last outing to the track I ripped a huge gash in the bumper. I installed a bracket to move my car ramps closer for when I load my ATVs on my car hauler....and I new it was close but had loaded successfully several times before. This time I wasn't so lucky.......
Did a quick patch and we raced anyway:
But I needed a fix...so I found a place called OnlinePartsBin (or something of the nature) and they did a VIN matched paint and then shipped the bumper for $250. So I took it apart while I waited....lead time was about 2 weeks.
I've always hated the China halo lights so I found a set of OEMs to go back on:
The busted bumper and china lights got hung for decoration:
Keep working that 60' and you should get there.
That's my goal too...10.XX I found my converter was slipping 17% and I may have hurt it ?
New custom spec'd converter needs testing, as I ran out of time last year between work and weather
Crossed fingers for mid-10's this year....time will tell.
Midwest Chassis rear bumper support but it isnt new.....
A full 10lbs of metal removed, about 1 pound went back in.
Losing the catback and 4" cutout, going to a single 4" bullet. Total weight lost will be a minimum of 35 lbs.
I love stock appearance......
I also have a 5 gallon bucket of misc brackets, bolts, back of the radio etc thats up to 30lbs and Im not near done yet. I also found a full gallon of coolant in the spare tire well so figure that was an extra 8 pounds I was dragging around for nothing :bang:
Decided to run the 4" pipe all the way out the back for the fumes, and the drone. I realized I had to delete the upper panhard support brace to make room for the pipe. I don't trust running without one so I fabbed up some supports of my own.
Running vertically supporting the bracket
This is what I started with, to go after the Y merge.
It snaked over the rear end quite nicely, with a little gap on top and bottom. Its ****ing loud.....
After some inspecting I realized WOT blasts make for super hot exhaust pipes. Was too close to the gas tank for comfort and melted a tiny bit of the bumper. So I wrapped the rear section and repositioned the tailpipe slightly.
The cutout i removed.
Got to tinker some today. Switched from a Chrs1313 AC ram air to a SSRA Megamouth (non-AC) ram air
Cut out the lower radiator support. It was worth 5lbs. The edges of the bracket are still strong enough for an adult male to hang from. I'm gonna run some aluminum flat bar across to give the air dam something to mount to.
Before my 11.2 run I had done the following weight reduction:
ABS Delete: 10
Bumper supports F+R: 40
9.5" converter: 15
Cruise delete: 5
Power seat delete: 10
Lightweight battery: 20
Spare tire delete: 20
Monsoon delete: 20
K Member: 30
Front swaybar delete: 15
Midwest rear bar: 5
Front fender cut: 5
Lightweight carpet: 20
Driver airbag delete: 5
Total: 220 lost
Since I've done:
AC Compressor/bracket: 20
Sway bar brackets: 5
AC fan delete: 5
Lower radiator support cut: 5
Catback delete: 30
Misc bucket of brackets: 35
Condensor and evap: 5
Spare tire well delete: 10
Upper panhard delete: 5
Total so far: 150
Total 370 lbs.
I was concerned with the air going around the radiator since the condenser was gone. So I fabbed up a couple pieces out of ABS, pictured here plus the hole I was facing.
Life gets in the way at times, but I'm still working on it.
A forum community dedicated to 1st generation Chevy Camaros owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, restoration, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, reviews, and more!