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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Using a vacuum pump is there a way to test the doors without the engine running. I know with a pump you can but I guess the question is how. Every possible componet is brand new and the doors move easily by hand. Hooking vaccum to either the red or green line should open and close the doors correct? I got one side to open (doing one side at a time) but I couldn't get it to close and the doors were tight so I couldn't even do it by hand. That was last night. By this morning I could close it as there wasn't that much pressure. It seems vacuum is holding it tight in one place , open or shut. Besides my issues I guess the main question is how do I test them to make sure they will work before I start the car. I would be happy just being able to test each light individually using the green and red line from each actuator but I don't know if using vacuum on one line if the other should be open or plugged or what. I can't really get them to work and I don't suspect I have bad actuators at this point because they feel ok when I do the lights manually and such. I am going to try and borrow a book but I wanted to do this tonight or tomorrow which doesn't leave time to try and borrow a book or go buy one which I am tapped anyway, the car is killing me and this is bugging me the most. If its hard to explain then I would accept a fax of some kind of a troubleshooting guide if there is one. Can someone explain how to hook up and use the vacuum pump to test the headlights? Sorry for the long post!
 

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I would also like to know as I will have to test mine this summerwhen I get the car together.

Tim

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ratchetmaster
1968 RS SS 350
1968 RS pro street project
1972 454 ElCamino
1999 Firebird WS-6 T/A
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iF YOU PULL A VACCUM ON THE GREEN HOSE,THE RED NEEDS TO BE OPEN--OPPS-- to let air in the other side of the actuator,and vice versa on the red.In other words,pull off both vac. lines,from the vaccum switch.Suck a vaccum on one of the hoses,the other hose will draw air in,at the same time.

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68 z28 ,68 rs 327 ,73 454 vette, 2 goofy kids
 

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To test the system as a whole disconnect the vacuum line at the manifold and connect there. Operate the doors either my the manual slide on top of the vacuum switch or just turn on the headlight switch.

To test individual vacuum actuators check under the front of the radiator support. Disconnect the lines at the T's for each actuator. Leaving one line unpluged apply vacuum to the other. Then reverse the operation. The door should open or close.

I just had to buy new repro actuators to repair a friends car. Sent one back for an exchange because it did not work properly. Testing them on a bench is very easy with a pump.

The vacuum switch on the reservoir tank can be tested by removing the lines to the actuators and moving the slide switch. Have your pump connected at the manifold line so that you can check the condition of the other hoses at the same time.

Check the operation of the hinge mechanism for binding or corrosion.

You can usually hear leaks. If the pump is too loud try running a longer hose and hide the pump.



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Click here to see see my car and hear 5-speeds. http://www.geocities.com/casanoc
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Excellent. I will be working on it this weekend. I suspect I have at least one bad new actuator. But at least I know the proper way to test the items so I know for sure. Thank you for the information!
 

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I just added my new 3 year old repo actuators and nothing moved when I pulled the switch. They would however move if I assisted them with a little push. I removed the actuators from the car. I was able to prove that the actuators were bad quite easily by blowing onto each side of the piston. Both actuators leaked past the piston. So what would happen is I'd position the piston in different positions in the actuators and blow or inhale and feel for leakage on the opposing side of the piston with my finger. In other words there is a good waste of 200 clams or should I say 400 as I have to buy 2 new ones!!!

for those that are interested on how fast the doors should open and close. Go to this ebay site and take a look at the short video of the door operation.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=562851124
 

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You can also check the lights by hooking up to the Yellow hose from the vacuum tank. This the main feed to the actuator switch.

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68 RS, Ash Gold,pwr windows,Hounds tooth
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok the car runs now but I have a problem with the headlights. I believe I have a bad light switch or the relay is bad on the tank. When the car is running and the light switch on, if I disconnect the green hose from the relay I have vacuum coming from it (the relay). The green hose closes the doors so this is not good. Is there a way to bench test the light switch and relay individually? What hoses from the light switch should let vacuum through when the switch is on or off? How do I test all aspects of the relay so I know it works? Sorry for all the questions. Its just that I think I am close and I never even thought I would get this far. Now that the car is driving again since its hibernation I am really anxious. Thanks
 

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Sounds like you have the red and green hoses connected backwards at the relay switch.

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68 RS, Ash Gold,pwr windows,Hounds tooth,355/T350,Autometer guage pod
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
CA420, I thought of that at first. From the top down they go red, yellow, green like a traffic light and the relay is marked with R, Y, and G so I know I have them right
 

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then the switch on the relay is in the wrong position......if you take the relay off there is a plunger in it that blocks off the green from the yellow and red allowing the green to go to atmosphere and the actuator to open the headlight door. And make sure the vacuum T's are going to the correct color hoses. Vacuum to the relay should only be present when the dash switch is pulled out.

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68 RS, Ash Gold,pwr windows,Hounds tooth,355/T350,Autometer guage pod

[This message has been edited by CA420 (edited 04-04-2001).]
 

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That is a great video of the headlights working. Mine are kinda lazy. They open fine, but usually won't close with the car running. If I leave them open, they will close when I restart it. This obviously isn't good enough. I haven't messed with them too much though, since I still have other issues to resolve. Lots of good info here..thanks ~ John

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1968 RS, 355/4spd/12 blt w/3.55's.www.camarogenerations.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
OK last night I checked out my system. My headlight switch was bad. Took it out and took it apart and found the problem. Took a while to fix but I fixed the switch and put it back together. I now know the switch is fine. I think I also know that the relay is bad. Applying vacuum anywhere to it and it does nothing. With the car running and the light switch on or off I can feel vacuum coming from the green line terminal on the relay and no matter what I do it doesn't change. I bought the relay used so I figure I was taking a chance anyway. I have a large swapmeet this weekend so I guess I will see what I can find.
 
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