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Discussion Starter #1
any of you painted a car with rustoluem and a roller. read about it on some other forums....takes approx 6 coats with wet sanding in between....here are pics of a panel i am trying it on:

ok, tried the first 2 coats on a fender piece i had laying around. cleaned it, cut the rustoleum with mineral spirits, 50-50, rolled on, let stand for 15 min, then rolled it again to get off the bubbles...did the blowing on it trick (yea yea yea) let it dry. An hour later, put on second coat. Stopped there. It sat for about 6 hours and it wont rub off or scratch off with finger nail. Tomorrow, will do the first wet sand and 2 more coats. If it works, i am going to do my 68 camaro this way. I also spoke with a friend who says i should use the marine paint he used on his boat. This guy has painted a couple of hundred cars and says "yeah, you can use a roller, there is no overspray and prep is a lot less"....... here are some pics
panel

lst coat



second coat




it has a nice gloss to it, you can see your reflection in the paint. still need to wet sand and then do coats 3-6
 

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wow cool project, i saw the big thread about this roller painting that the guy did on his cuda. It looked really good once it was done. Please update us on how it turns out. I wish you good luck.

New things like this are awesome!! I'm glad your trying this out.:thumbsup:
 

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hmmmmmmmm.............

i dont know what to think.......
 

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Cool. But the whole idea sorta has a "Martha Stewart meets body work" flavor :p I can't wait to see how it turns out.
Scott
 

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If you talk to any old time painter, they will tell you that they would paint cars with brushes, then water sand and then rub it down with corn starch paste then wax. Heck..back in the late 70s early 80 I painted alot of cars using enamel and used an old painters trick. They would heat up the paint then spray it so it would flow out like glass :) Once I changed to the Dupont Centari w/hardner I stoped shooting straight enamel. I even shot door jambs and trunk area with enamel mixed with lacquer thinner so it dried fast and I could close the hood,trunk,doors and shoot the rest of the car :) Enjoy your test..it will be fun and turn out great.

Kev
 

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What are the black streaks? It would be a much better job to get a gallon of single stage automative laquer a small compressor and spray it. You could do one or two panels at a time if you wanted to. Then wetsand and rub it out.Not the most advanced way compared to todays paint systems but you could get a real nice job and its how it was done in the 70's 80's. I would do that before i tried the rustoleum.
 

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I read the enormous thread on this on one of the Chrysler boards. The guy swears it's easy once you get the 'feel' for it, and you can skip all the taping, masking, and trying to build a paint booth in your garage. His car looked great in the photos. I'm still going to spray mine but for some folks and under the right circumstances...why not ?
 

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I assume once u get the rest of the coats on the roller marks arent visible and its a solid color?

Any links to the other discussions with more pics I just like browseing
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i wet sanded it (never done it before) and applied a few more coats...figured why waste....i think i put too much on too fast. I will wet sand it today and continue....... Some of my boat buddies swear by it, to use marine paint.....i may do that on the 68.... it is 250 a gallon, but is supposed to be amazing....we shall see
 

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... Some of my boat buddies swear by it, to use marine paint.....i may do that on the 68.... it is 250 a gallon, but is supposed to be amazing....we shall see ...
Hmmmmmmm - I'm not even sure about the advise on what kind of vegetable to put in my Bloody Mary in the morning I'd get from most of my 'boat buddies' over at the "Rusty Porthole" - but take paint advise from those guys :noway:

Remember that 'Marine' paints have lots of properties about them that don't make them the best automotive paints ...
The majority have "anti-fouling" additives that can effect their performance as a top coat for automotive in single-stage systems. These types of paints also don't take clear coat very well, delamination or pealing of the clear coats is very common.
Most are also formulated with added 'flex-agents' in them for use on fiberglass substrates.

You can get a complete Automotive Paint Kit from online retailers for under $200 - so $250 a gallon without cat & reducers doesn't sound like much of a bargain to me ...
Here is a link to one kit @$180 - http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/Kirker/acrylic-urethanes.html
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hmmmmmmm - I'm not even sure about the advise on what kind of vegetable to put in my Bloody Mary in the morning I'd get from most of my 'boat buddies' over at the "Rusty Porthole" - but take paint advise from those guys :noway:

Remember that 'Marine' paints have lots of properties about them that don't make them the best automotive paints ...
The majority have "anti-fouling" additives that can effect their performance as a top coat for automotive in single-stage systems. These types of paints also don't take clear coat very well, delamination or peali

ng of the clear coats is very common.
Most are also formulated with added 'flex-agents' in them for use on fiberglass substrates.

You can get a complete Automotive Paint Kit from online retailers for under $200 - so $250 a gallon without cat & reducers doesn't sound like much of a bargain to me ...
Here is a link to one kit @$180 - http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/Kirker/acrylic-urethanes.html

CAN YOU ROLL THOSE ON TOO?
 

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***Giving the Inquisitive Dr. Evil Pinky Look***

Hmmm?????
 
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