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“Old Skool Kool” “Street sweeper” 68SS
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All jokes aside. I’m a newish owner of 68 Camaro and I tried taking off the crank pulley with a ratchet wrench set and some wrenches even a pair of channel locks. I wasn’t able to figure out how to get it off because of the obvious fact that I have stated above. If anyone has an idea how I can take it off and replace it with another one please post an answer for me.

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“Old Skool Kool” “Street sweeper” 68SS
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it’s because the bolts are so close to the crankshaft pulley arm and swiveled so I tried my ratchet set with the extensions but no good. Then I tried a wrench but the bolts are kind of rounded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I actually have those the problem is that there is a curve on the bolts and it’s also right up against the surface which give me no room if you can imagine putting your wrench on it and looking closely you may see what I mean.
 

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Maybe try a good line wrench - not a cheap one. I have a set of snap on wrenches that don't flex at all. If you can't be a line wrench on maybe a crows foot.

If you start rounding them stop. Next step if those don't work I would do is cut the pulley off so you have more room to get a socket on them.

Worst case you end up cutting the bolt heads off with a cutoff tool. Just cover stuff up good and direct the shower of sparks where you won't have shavings all over your engine.
 

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If you can't get an open end wrench on them because they are rounded off I would get a pair of decent size channel lock pliers. Get them really tight and hope for the best.

Otherwise, cut the heads off.
 

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Penetrant spray every day for a few days. Then try. I've done that with suspension parts on 80's trucks. Worked great.

Another option - get a sacrificial 6 pt socket and grind it to fit.
 

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1968 Camaro LS3 TH400
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Find someone with a set of Snap On tools.
They are worth their weight in gold for some applications
Six point box end is not super common but that would be my choice.
The line wrench idea might work to break it loose.
You never know who does what ….they may have put red loctite on them….propane torch can help that situation, but it takes patience.
 

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They don't look that rounded! 10-4 on the red loctite! I might have done that! You're gonna win. Don't use a crescent wrench - find that long six point box! This is when I use my expensive Aerokroil. I hide it from my buddies and they have to use the PB Blaster...Good Luck!
 

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I got these wrenches a year or so ago. SnapOn did carry them for over $250 but these were the "ebay" ones for around $75 (I believe from the company that made them for SnapOn). The more force you put on them the tighter they get and you can use a 3/8" breaker bar with them

Thy have bailed me out after PB, torch would not get it done. Have never been able to find them since

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i got it off. The belt that was on it before is to small to go back on. The belt measured 41 inches. I measured the old crankshaft pulley and it was 13 inches in diameter then I measured the new crankshaft pulley which is 21 inches in diameter and the difference detergent the two are 8 inches. So I ordered a 49 inch v belt along with a set of washers to give my pulley room so it won’t run the other belt that barely touches the crankshaft pulleys groove.
 

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You must mean circumference not diameter. Wrap a rope or string around the pulleys to simulate the belt. Mark and measure that to get an approximate belt length. Then go to the parts store and get a couple of belts in the measured range. Take them home and see what fits best. If you don't tension or run the belt(s) the store will let you return them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Okay so to follow up. The crankshaft pulley is to big. And it caused the belts to rub. So I bought some shims and like summit recommended. It didn’t work. I called summit back and spoke with a person on the phone that treated me like a class act before I hung up.

Now I know that I need a slightly smaller crankshaft pulley. The crankshaft pulley is 6.4” diameter. It’s so close. And only rubs when I turn the wheel. I’m beginning to get my feet under me. But if anyone wants to add their own two cents. Go right ahead.
 

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You have a single groove crank pulley driving a double groove water pump pulley with 1 belt to the alternator and another to the PS pump on the passenger side.

What you have is a fabricated race car set up. Under driving the alt and ps. This works for race cars running constantly at high rpm. Does not work well for a street car.

You might be able to use a double groove crank pulley with 1 belt crank/wp/alt and a 2nd belt crank/ps pump. That way the alt and ps pump would be running a correct rpm for a street driven car.
 
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Appears you may have a long water pump with short pump pulley. That’s possibly why the alt bracket was made to move the alt forward for alignment. The ps pump also looks like spacers were used to achieve alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You have a single groove crank pulley driving a double groove water pump pulley with 1 belt to the alternator and another to the PS pump on the passenger side.

What you have is a fabricated race car set up. Under driving the alt and ps. This works for race cars running constantly at high rpm. Does not work well for a street car.

You might be able to use a double groove crank pulley with 1 belt crank/wp/alt and a 2nd belt crank/ps pump. That way the alt and ps pump would be running a correct rpm for a street driven car.
That’s a great idea idea and that how I’ve seen it in my mind but I just need a basic example like a picture of how to set that up so I can get brainstorming get the right parts and do it. Thanks for for your 02. 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The thing that I was thinking when I looked at it and doing a double groove crank pulley was that it’s like the belts for the car s and the alternator would be spinning in opposite directions. Or no?
 
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