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Fixer upper thread of my 68 Camaro

7K views 72 replies 16 participants last post by  Vega$69 
#1 · (Edited)
1968 fixed up.
 
#6 ·
Maybe try a good line wrench - not a cheap one. I have a set of snap on wrenches that don't flex at all. If you can't be a line wrench on maybe a crows foot.

If you start rounding them stop. Next step if those don't work I would do is cut the pulley off so you have more room to get a socket on them.

Worst case you end up cutting the bolt heads off with a cutoff tool. Just cover stuff up good and direct the shower of sparks where you won't have shavings all over your engine.
 
#7 ·
If you can't get an open end wrench on them because they are rounded off I would get a pair of decent size channel lock pliers. Get them really tight and hope for the best.

Otherwise, cut the heads off.
 
#8 ·
Penetrant spray every day for a few days. Then try. I've done that with suspension parts on 80's trucks. Worked great.

Another option - get a sacrificial 6 pt socket and grind it to fit.
 
#10 ·
Find someone with a set of Snap On tools.
They are worth their weight in gold for some applications
Six point box end is not super common but that would be my choice.
The line wrench idea might work to break it loose.
You never know who does what ….they may have put red loctite on them….propane torch can help that situation, but it takes patience.
 
#11 ·
They don't look that rounded! 10-4 on the red loctite! I might have done that! You're gonna win. Don't use a crescent wrench - find that long six point box! This is when I use my expensive Aerokroil. I hide it from my buddies and they have to use the PB Blaster...Good Luck!
 
#12 ·
I got these wrenches a year or so ago. SnapOn did carry them for over $250 but these were the "ebay" ones for around $75 (I believe from the company that made them for SnapOn). The more force you put on them the tighter they get and you can use a 3/8" breaker bar with them

Thy have bailed me out after PB, torch would not get it done. Have never been able to find them since

FlexForce® Brake and Fuel Line Wrench - Bing video
 
#13 ·
i got it off. The belt that was on it before is to small to go back on. The belt measured 41 inches. I measured the old crankshaft pulley and it was 13 inches in diameter then I measured the new crankshaft pulley which is 21 inches in diameter and the difference detergent the two are 8 inches. So I ordered a 49 inch v belt along with a set of washers to give my pulley room so it won’t run the other belt that barely touches the crankshaft pulleys groove.
 
#14 ·
You must mean circumference not diameter. Wrap a rope or string around the pulleys to simulate the belt. Mark and measure that to get an approximate belt length. Then go to the parts store and get a couple of belts in the measured range. Take them home and see what fits best. If you don't tension or run the belt(s) the store will let you return them.
 
#16 ·
Okay so to follow up. The crankshaft pulley is to big. And it caused the belts to rub. So I bought some shims and like summit recommended. It didn’t work. I called summit back and spoke with a person on the phone that treated me like a class act before I hung up.

Now I know that I need a slightly smaller crankshaft pulley. The crankshaft pulley is 6.4” diameter. It’s so close. And only rubs when I turn the wheel. I’m beginning to get my feet under me. But if anyone wants to add their own two cents. Go right ahead.
 
#17 · (Edited)
You have a single groove crank pulley driving a double groove water pump pulley with 1 belt to the alternator and another to the PS pump on the passenger side.

What you have is a fabricated race car set up. Under driving the alt and ps. This works for race cars running constantly at high rpm. Does not work well for a street car.

You might be able to use a double groove crank pulley with 1 belt crank/wp/alt and a 2nd belt crank/ps pump. That way the alt and ps pump would be running a correct rpm for a street driven car.
 
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#19 ·
You have a single groove crank pulley driving a double groove water pump pulley with 1 belt to the alternator and another to the PS pump on the passenger side.

What you have is a fabricated race car set up. Under driving the alt and ps. This works for race cars running constantly at high rpm. Does not work well for a street car.

You might be able to use a double groove crank pulley with 1 belt crank/wp/alt and a 2nd belt crank/ps pump. That way the alt and ps pump would be running a correct rpm for a street driven car.
That’s a great idea idea and that how I’ve seen it in my mind but I just need a basic example like a picture of how to set that up so I can get brainstorming get the right parts and do it. Thanks for for your 02. 👍
 
#18 ·
Appears you may have a long water pump with short pump pulley. That’s possibly why the alt bracket was made to move the alt forward for alignment. The ps pump also looks like spacers were used to achieve alignment.
 
#29 ·
Well I know I’m dumb and you can even call me stupid but my crankshaft pulley is arriving tomorrow and it’s slighter wider in diameter. And it’s a triple groove. That means my ps belt and my alternator belt will go on it. One thing that I have been thinking of and trying to solve is how to get the power steering pump on where it’s snug. I have a have a crow bar to get the alternator belt snug but right now the power steering on this car isn’t working at all and I have to get that sorted as well as the crankshaft pulley. And maybe I should also create a build thread instead of making a million threads. I’m reading through other peoples literature but it’s like something has pulled the wool over my eyes every time I go out to my shed to work on my car and what was once fun fixing has now turned into a full time harassment job for a few of my neighbors. But anyways I digress. I’m just going to take your opinions and get after it because that’s all I can do.
 
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