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Hello All,
I know most people who run a 700R4 will not use a full manual valve body. I am thinking about replacing my Super-T10 trans with a 700R4. The Super T-10's ratio's are too close and the clutch is a race clutch. As some of you know on here my car had a spool when I bought it and I'm slowly turning this car from a car destined for nothing but the drag strip to a nice street car. First gear in the Super T-1o now lasts about 15 feet before I have to shift into 2nd.
My question is: If you run a full manual valve body in a 700R4 trans does that mean you don't have to worry about the throttle valve cable or do you still need one anyway??????-----I never had to worry about the TV cable on my 1984 Z or my 88 "ROCK"... I hear the TV cable is a pain in the @$$
on the 700R4 which later became the 4L60.
If I use an automatic trans no matter if it's a 4L80E, 700R4 or THM400 I refuse to put anything but a full manual valve body in there. Preferably reverse pattern. 4L80E's even without the "E" features are big bucks. It's more bucks to install a full manual valve body in a 4L80E and convert the speedometer to a mechanical one....700R4's the later 30 spline versions of them are ok but it costs BIG BIG money to get them to live to around 600 or 650 Horsepower. You can forget about the 200R4. Those things cost as much as a 700R4 to get them to live to big horsepower. I'm old school and the 2004r is just an overglorified 200 which is what Buick ran in the late 1970' & early 1980's. Save the Grand National comments. The GN had about 240HP and the GNX had about 300HP stock. Corvette's & Camaro's used the 700r4 which beame the 4L60 & 4L65E. It's still a 700r4 with electronics and an LS1 Camaro will smoke a Grand National stock vs stock.
My 350 now is pretty decent. It makes more horspower than a GNX or an LS1 and it was built by the prior owner. He/they from what I was told and from what I can tell did a nice job on the engine. Eventually I will be replacing this engine putting at least a 427 or 454 in it. Possibly a 496 Chevy BBC if money allows. I'm shooting for 500-650 horsepower if money allows. :thumbsup:
This is why I like the THM 400 and 3:73's---My old 1969 had a 396 with 12.5:1, 292 duration with .544 lift. It was close to 500 HP. The rest of the drive train was a THM400 full manual valve body reverse pattern built to withstand about 1000Hp. That trans was built to death and I loved it. I think the converter was a 10" converter with a 3,000 stall. The rear end was a stock 12 bolt w/ 3:73 gears. I drove this car when my 1984 Z28 was down for 2 months to & from work 6 days a week and it was highway driving 60 miles round trip every day. I was fine with it and could drive it anywhere all day :yes:
Ok back to my car: It's a nicely built 350 from what I can tell. 10 or 10.5:1 I think...290 duration I think w/ .524 lift I think. Aluminum heads. Trans is a T-10. Rear end is a Moser 12 bolt w/ 4:10 gears and a Detroit True Trac with 100 street miles on it. Yes only 100 street miles...I should have went 3:73 instead of 4:10, but that's my fault.
Now that you know the facts what would you do here if you can't spend more than 3 grand from the trans back ...Which option would you go with...
1) Sell the Moser, build up my other 12 bolt and go with a Detroit Locker or True Trac and 3:73's.
2) Keep the Moser but change the gears to a 3:73's and go with a built to death Turbo 400 and forget about 700R4's, 4L60's, 2004R and 4L80 E's etc.
3) Keep the Moser 12 bolt, keep the 4:10's, sell the T10, sell the other 12 bolt and build a 700r4 to death. That way you can have your cake and eat it too with overdrive.
4) Save up your money, get a 4L80E with a full manual valve body (that means no E) and keep the 4:10's and the Moser.
5) Before I almost forget--Save your money, build a THM400 to death and put a gear vendors overdrive hehind it. I know gear vendors is about $2,300 or $2,500 but how does this work at the race track? I hear gear vendors takes a while to engage at the track? I don't know anyone who has used Gear Vendors but I hear they rock plus you can keep the indestructable THM 400. This sounds like the most expensive option and may cost more than a 4L80 without the E features.
*****Guys & gals for that matter as well, I'm confused here. I don't want to go any less than a 3:73 or anymore than a 4:10. THM400's are still cheap and w/ a 3:73 I really don't need overdrive. I realized I need overdrive with the mouse motor in there now and w/ 4:10's back there. That engine revs pretty high and I don't want to kill it at 50-60MPH. Which option would you go with. Right now I'm leaning towards 3:73 with a THM400 or the 4:10 with a built to death 700R4. Both would have full manual valve body's.
Thanks & Sorry for the long post. I'm really confused here. Any & all comments are welcomed!!
I know most people who run a 700R4 will not use a full manual valve body. I am thinking about replacing my Super-T10 trans with a 700R4. The Super T-10's ratio's are too close and the clutch is a race clutch. As some of you know on here my car had a spool when I bought it and I'm slowly turning this car from a car destined for nothing but the drag strip to a nice street car. First gear in the Super T-1o now lasts about 15 feet before I have to shift into 2nd.
My question is: If you run a full manual valve body in a 700R4 trans does that mean you don't have to worry about the throttle valve cable or do you still need one anyway??????-----I never had to worry about the TV cable on my 1984 Z or my 88 "ROCK"... I hear the TV cable is a pain in the @$$
on the 700R4 which later became the 4L60.If I use an automatic trans no matter if it's a 4L80E, 700R4 or THM400 I refuse to put anything but a full manual valve body in there. Preferably reverse pattern. 4L80E's even without the "E" features are big bucks. It's more bucks to install a full manual valve body in a 4L80E and convert the speedometer to a mechanical one....700R4's the later 30 spline versions of them are ok but it costs BIG BIG money to get them to live to around 600 or 650 Horsepower. You can forget about the 200R4. Those things cost as much as a 700R4 to get them to live to big horsepower. I'm old school and the 2004r is just an overglorified 200 which is what Buick ran in the late 1970' & early 1980's. Save the Grand National comments. The GN had about 240HP and the GNX had about 300HP stock. Corvette's & Camaro's used the 700r4 which beame the 4L60 & 4L65E. It's still a 700r4 with electronics and an LS1 Camaro will smoke a Grand National stock vs stock.
My 350 now is pretty decent. It makes more horspower than a GNX or an LS1 and it was built by the prior owner. He/they from what I was told and from what I can tell did a nice job on the engine. Eventually I will be replacing this engine putting at least a 427 or 454 in it. Possibly a 496 Chevy BBC if money allows. I'm shooting for 500-650 horsepower if money allows. :thumbsup:
This is why I like the THM 400 and 3:73's---My old 1969 had a 396 with 12.5:1, 292 duration with .544 lift. It was close to 500 HP. The rest of the drive train was a THM400 full manual valve body reverse pattern built to withstand about 1000Hp. That trans was built to death and I loved it. I think the converter was a 10" converter with a 3,000 stall. The rear end was a stock 12 bolt w/ 3:73 gears. I drove this car when my 1984 Z28 was down for 2 months to & from work 6 days a week and it was highway driving 60 miles round trip every day. I was fine with it and could drive it anywhere all day :yes:
Ok back to my car: It's a nicely built 350 from what I can tell. 10 or 10.5:1 I think...290 duration I think w/ .524 lift I think. Aluminum heads. Trans is a T-10. Rear end is a Moser 12 bolt w/ 4:10 gears and a Detroit True Trac with 100 street miles on it. Yes only 100 street miles...I should have went 3:73 instead of 4:10, but that's my fault.
Now that you know the facts what would you do here if you can't spend more than 3 grand from the trans back ...Which option would you go with...
1) Sell the Moser, build up my other 12 bolt and go with a Detroit Locker or True Trac and 3:73's.
2) Keep the Moser but change the gears to a 3:73's and go with a built to death Turbo 400 and forget about 700R4's, 4L60's, 2004R and 4L80 E's etc.
3) Keep the Moser 12 bolt, keep the 4:10's, sell the T10, sell the other 12 bolt and build a 700r4 to death. That way you can have your cake and eat it too with overdrive.
4) Save up your money, get a 4L80E with a full manual valve body (that means no E) and keep the 4:10's and the Moser.
5) Before I almost forget--Save your money, build a THM400 to death and put a gear vendors overdrive hehind it. I know gear vendors is about $2,300 or $2,500 but how does this work at the race track? I hear gear vendors takes a while to engage at the track? I don't know anyone who has used Gear Vendors but I hear they rock plus you can keep the indestructable THM 400. This sounds like the most expensive option and may cost more than a 4L80 without the E features.
*****Guys & gals for that matter as well, I'm confused here. I don't want to go any less than a 3:73 or anymore than a 4:10. THM400's are still cheap and w/ a 3:73 I really don't need overdrive. I realized I need overdrive with the mouse motor in there now and w/ 4:10's back there. That engine revs pretty high and I don't want to kill it at 50-60MPH. Which option would you go with. Right now I'm leaning towards 3:73 with a THM400 or the 4:10 with a built to death 700R4. Both would have full manual valve body's.
Thanks & Sorry for the long post. I'm really confused here. Any & all comments are welcomed!!
