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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's a process.

Pulled a head and it went from there. :confused:

My Dart Pro 1 aluminum heads are in the shop for some reworking ... they need it.

I'll be working on getting the block out tomorrow.

Probably won't get it out tomorrow, but I'll get closer. :unsure:
 

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Hopefully you'll upgrade the engine in the Pony department! Nothing like a little more HP! :):)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Here is where I am a right now. I was adjusting the valves I heard a noise I did not like.

What had occurred is I had not set a push rod back in the lifter plunger quite right and it had slipped off the lifter ... rocker stopped moving with engine running. Sometimes all I can do is plead stupidity. :oops:

I feared the valve had tapped the piston.

I pull the head and discovered all looked fine with the valve and piston. I had a new head and intake gasket in hand, all prepared to get things back together.

Then I notice the head has a problem with some deteriorating aluminum in a bad place. This is allowing coolant into the head bolt tunnel and is oh-so-close to both #2 and #4 cylinder bores. Not confident I will get a good seal on those bores if I just set the head and assume all is fine.

Plugged after cleanout 2 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

I was afraid the head might be trash and was thinking I would buy new heads and redo the short block as a 350 (like it is now). The block became involved when I saw this damage to the bore in #6.

Cylinder #6 scratches in wall by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

When I pulled the second head yesterday I found more bore damage. Not as bad as #6, but damage.

When I purchased the dart heads I got the 200cc intake runners. This was 20 years ago. I'm not that smart now, but I am smarter than I was 20 years ago.

Those 200cc intake runners are a bit large for a mildly built 350, so the idea of new heads and dropping to something like 180cc seemed like a plan.

After visiting the machine shop (and dropping off the heads) yesterday I learned the rot damage to that head can be easily repaired. Knowing the heads can be made viable again I am strongly considering a shift in the plan.

Those 200cc intake runners should be much happier with 383 CID. I can run my same cam and valvetrain, assuming all checks out well on those parts, and I expect it should.

Once I get the block into the shop we will find out if those bores can be cleaned up.

Right now it's one step at a time. There are some additional nuances to the story, but Ill leave it at that for now
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hopefully you'll upgrade the engine in the Pony department! Nothing like a little more HP! :):)
For my purpose on this car I don't need any more power. I does everything I need as it is.

Being "Well Mannered' is of more importance to me for this daily driver.

I'm not 100% set on the 383 yet, but if I go that route it will still need to be very well mannered. I will say, 383 is the likely path as of right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Street car with some gitty-up ? Torque monster 😉

Since you already have the heads....BluePrint Engines 383CI Stroker Crate Engine | Small Block GM Style |

450'#...I'd like a different cam, but.....
I know the thinking on crate motors being a great way to go in terms of value and ease.

I want to plan this one out, spec it myself and assemble it myself so I know exactly what I have.

I did not take complete control of this one from the get-go 20 years ago and I have regretted it. There have been things about it I have never liked ... from day one.

I like the idea that if things go wrong all I have to do is look in the mirror to find someone to blame ;)
 

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OP

your heads, after they get "fixed", will be happy on a 383. You will like the increased TQ also. I also put "street manners" above full HP. A 220/224 cam in a 383 is , IMHO, a great street combo as TQ is what will be big

If you current 350 is a 2 piece RMS flat tappet motor.....I would strongly consider the BPE 383 (377) short block noted.

Given the surgery you can now see the 350 will need, IMHO, I would completely rebuild it (including caps & line bore) beyond just hanging new pistons on your current rods. I suspect the cost for this will be =, and likely more, than the BPE offering

FWIW I have a BPE long block 357. Very happy with it. Several on this forum have a BPE engine and their shop tour video is impressive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
This is the cam in the engine.

At the time I selected it (20 years ago) ... this was the second mildest HR cam Crane offered for SBC

HR cam card by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

Once we get the heads done and CC the chambers we will be able to figure out the deck and piston situation. Crane specs say, 8.75 to 10.5 "static" compression ratio advised.

We will base choices on the desired "dynamic compression ratio" to insure the engine is well. mannered. I'm guessing static to come in near 9.5.
 

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I know the thinking on crate motors being a great way to go in terms of value and ease.

I want to plan this one out, spec it myself and assemble it myself so I know exactly what I have.

I did not take complete control of this one from the get-go 20 years ago and I have regretted it. There have been things about it I have never liked ... from day one.

I like the idea that if things go wrong all I have to do is look in the mirror to find someone to blame ;)
OK, didn't know your motor situation. Rebuild it is 😁

I do like the idea of a local shop doing the work IF there are issues....always are 🙄

For the street... I like torque. Look at RV/4X4 cams 😉
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
For the street... I like torque. Look at RV/4X4 cams 😉
I won't be looking for a cam unless the Crane HR (119821 card shown above) I have in there proves to be damaged in some way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I'll toss this out for advice:

These Dart heads had the "usual" threaded provision for the temp sender as on stock configuration.

This provision is too small for the factory sender. I always figured when the heads came off again I should drill and tap that out to the correct size for a stock temp sender. There is a bit of a bulk-head there for reinforcement.

I would prefer to move the sender down to that location.

This eBay listing shows the exhaust side with the provision to the left.
Dart 127121 SHP 180CC Assembled Engine Cylinder Head-Small Block Chevy | eBay

What opinions do you guys have on the idea of (enlarging) drilling and tapping the heads?

The sizes as I understand are: 3/8" existing ... needs to be 1/2" NPT to accept the factory temp sender.

Edited to add: Yes, I am aware it can go in the intake manifold. That's where it is now ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Larry, I would just find a compatible sensor/switch with 3/8 npt thread.

I've been down that road ... with no success. :(

Edited to add: I have about five senders in a box, none of which work correctly with the gauge.
 

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You might be able to use a 3/8" male npt to 1/2" female npt adapter (link shown below) to fit your current temp sending unit into the new head. Just be sure you have the room between the head port and the header for the added adapter.
Automotive lighting Automotive design Bumper Automotive exterior Material property
 
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Larry

as RifRaf notes a NPT adapter. They also make 45 & 90 degree ones if the straight one presents sensor to exhaust/headers clearance issues

I have my "gauge" (aftermarket) sensor on head and intake manifold sensor to my dash light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If limited to only two choices ...

Use the adapter as shown or leave it in the intake manifold ...

I'll chose to leave it in the intake manifold. ;)

I've not yet heard anyone advising that drilling and tapping the existing provision out to 1/2" NPT is a bad idea and will lead to problems.
 

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I've not yet heard anyone advising that drilling and tapping the existing provision out to 1/2" NPT is a bad idea and will lead to problems.
Might want to contact DART direct about drilling/taping a larger hole. "Maybe" there is not enough meat on the bones relative to the material around current sensor hole and water jacket.

I know you have a box full of previously tried sensors. Weird there is not a 1/8" NPT one with the right resistance for your gauge
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Before I took the heads in I was pre-occupied with the other stuff, so I didn't really evaluate his situation.

I'll get a closer look and have my machine shop make an assessment. It's something I could do myself, but now they are in the shop so I'll let them look and do it if they think it's safe. I think the only problem would be if someone were to really try to torque in a sensor or plug one day.

I guess I thought maybe someone might have done it before and might have input on how it worked out for them.

I appreciate the responses to the question. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The Block went to the shop today. Howard (shop owner) sees no problem getting it back to rebuildable condition. Good news there.

We will be doing the 383 version on the rebuild. I'll be able to re-use my existing piston rods, flywheel and damper. The new crank will require nothing more than balancing the entire assembly.

Heads are stripped down and ready for refurbishing. Welding up the damaged areas, we found a couple of more places needing some help. Mill the surfaces, valve job ... and they will need to guides. The new guides drive the pricing up a bit, but if they need done, they need done.

I found some info on the heads and I have the 64cc heads. I was hoping they were the 72cc version, no luck on that one. Dish pistons here we come. Even that 64cc will shrink a bit by the time the heads are finished.

This week I will pull some parts I want to powder coat. I also want to re-do my clutch linkage with spherical end joints at all the pivot points. I did that on my Mach1 and it really made the clutch smooth and tight (no slop at all).

During the disassembly I found a few things I'll want to replace. The clutch is showing wear. I really want to go to a Borg & Beck pressure plate if it will fit in the bell. I have that on the Mach1 and I like it better. A motor mount came apart, so new mounts are in order. A few other minor things I can't think of at the moment. ;)
 
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