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For a long lasting street engine, i would use the 3.625" crank in a decked block here:

9.0000" DECK
6.0000" ROD
1.8125" RADIUS & 3.625" STROKE
1.2100" PISTON
1.65:01 ROD RATIO
4.0300" BORE
370../// CUBIC INCH
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I'm getting close to having to make a final decision on 383 or 350.

One consideration I have not pressed hard on is cooling.

Should I expect a 383 to be harder to keep running as cool as my 350 has been?

The radiator and entire system is all new, well three years now. Here in the Mojave with 115 degree summer days being a reality I should at least ask the question.

Any thoughts on that front?
 

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If your current cooling system works well on a stock 350, it will work for a 383.....if its same compression motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
If your current cooling system works well on a stock 350, it will work for a 383.....if its same compression motor.
Yes, we will be planning it to stay (likely) around 9.5 Static. We will actually be calculating for Dynamic CR.

I have a rather mild cam in the engine so I will not see a lot of compression bleed off. This will necessitate paying closer attention to the Dynamic ratio. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I'm cleaning up parts that will go back on my SB when it's completed. I noticed something today that I have never noticed or realized I needed.

Am I imagining things here? ;)

That post on the back of the starter looks to me like a ground post. I have never hooked up a dedicated ground to any starter in the past. In fact this is the first time I have ever noticed a provision for a dedicated ground.

Probably a good idea though.

Starter:
DSC_2849 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
 

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That threaded stud on the back of the starter (red arrow) is not a "ground" post.
Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Musical instrument Helmet

I have the same threaded stud on the back of my starter... and there is a metal bracket (green arrow) that is installed over this stud and is held in place with an additional nut. The other end of the bracket is connected to the side of the engine block with a bolt.
Vehicle Hood Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Automotive tire

GM Part No. 3965589
I'm guessing that this bracket was used on heavy duty... or high torque starters to help reinforce/stabilize this end during cranking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I did find the bracket/support. $9.00 item on eBay. ;)

I'm running into some side projects as I go along, so I'll be coming up with remedies for those as move along.

One was my throttle linkage/lever. It had slop in it and I discovered the clamp had come off the end of the shaft.
DSC_2850 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
I used a file to create a slight shoulder out at the end so once the bolt is tightened to clamp it in ... it can't slip off the end
DSC_2852 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
I am also welding nuts on the inside of the firewall to make it much easier to install and remove the pivot bracket all from the engine bay side. I'll powder coat all the assembly visible from the engine bay side.
DSC_2853 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

I'll also be dealing with a patch I put in the tunnel back when I bought the car. The previous owner had installed a shifter and removed a section of the side of the tunnel to get the shifter to fit.

I wanted none of that and purchased a Hurst Competition Plus shifter. I knew it would work with a console. I didn't have a console but knew I would put one in. I had no welder at the time so I patched it in using machine screws and nuts with fender washers as clamps. Hey it worked and it's all hidden.

Since I have had a welder I have always wanted to fix that in a more proper manner, but I sort of needed the transmission out to get at it and do it. Transmission is out, so now is the time.

I'll post some PICs of that little situation once I pull the seat and console and get the carpet pushed over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
Another side project completed.

I cleaned up the routing on my front brake lines a while back when I went to manual disc (I eliminated the power booster and changed the master cylinder), but the rear was pretty buried in the back.

The rear line was gangling way out, almost in the way of the clutch Z-bar and visually annoying. With the engine out and the clutch linkage out as well ... I have pretty easy access.

I did not take any PICs of the before situation, but this is what I ended up with.

Running tight up from the floor/frame to the firewall
IMG_2730 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

Stays close as it makes the bend and runs across to the master cylinder
IMG_2733 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

Sweeps under the clutch rod and out around my speedo cable then cleanly up to the valve.
IMG_2732 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

The line stays clear of everything from the clamp under the floor all the way to the valve. Pretty much 1" clearance all the way. I've not bled the brakes yet, but no leaks as of now.

Re-routing brake lines is a task I am always a bit afraid of. I've had good sucess, but knowing I have to cut lines and make new double flairs ... not to mention the bending and routing ... just not something I look forward to doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Update: I stopped by to see Howard at Vegas Machine today.

Block cleaned up at .040 over. That was great news as it was already .030 over and thought some of the gouging looked pretty deep. The rods are all prepped and balanced (y)

I will go with the stroker. I'm not an expert on stroker crank shafts, but we will go with the "higher grade" crank. It keeps me with internal balance, and I can use my fly and damper. As Howard explained; a downside for me on the cheaper crank is it then goes to external balance, and I need a different fly and damper ... eating away at any $$$ savings and you still have a cheaper cast crank. I'll go ahead and let Howard supply the crank, it's about a $725.00 item.

Heads are not yet completed, so I don't know the chamber cc value yet. Need that to determine piston dish for a daily driver friendly compression ratio. Howard will have to clearance the block a bit. I'll see if he can get me a number on piston height below deck. I'll be looking for something between .005 down and zero. I'll be assembling with Fel-Pro head gaskets advertised at .0415" compressed thickness.

I'll have Howard spin the entire rotating assembly for proper balance once the crank arrives.

It's been quite a while since I put an engine together. I'm pretty excited to do this one.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Did not make any errand runs last week.

I believe Howard has my heads done. I'll swing by and pick those up and find out the chamber size. Then I can determine what pistons to purchase.

Howard should have the crank shaft in hand now, so we can make some headway on other fronts. I'll drop off my flywheel and damper.

I'll take some things to the powder coat shop along the way. I have a standard color I have been using for years and I keep the powder on hand so the shop never has to worry about matching colors or dealing with material for me.

This is the current assortment of parts to be coated. The fuel line has that green coating on it. I tried to get it off with limited success. My sand blaster is just not powerful enough to take it off. Hoping they can do it without bending the tubing. Try as I might, I could not find plain bare 3/8" steel tubing.
IMG_2784[1] by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

Transmission is also ready, so I'll swing by there and pick it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
Head chambers are at 68cc. Larger than the 64 or even less I had expected.

Looking at pistons now. I have had good success with KB hypereutectic in other builds and I'm looking at those first.

We have a +12cc version which will land me at 7.88 Dynamic and 9.79 Static CR. That would be the top end of my happy zone. There is also a +18cc option which would drop Static to 9.23 and about 7.40 Dynamic.

Frankly I wish I had a choice right in the middle of those.

The +12cc could ship tomorrow. :) The +18 are expected to ship Feb 28 ... not a happy wait time for me there.

Howard will do some looking around. I'll give him a couple of days.

Edited to add:

I found a source for the +18cc version on eBay through Speedway. They are shipping as I type. Should be here on Friday.

I'll have Howard zero deck the pistons, which will bring static compression ratio up to 9.3 and take full advantage of what "quench" I'm going to have.

While I had assumed static to come in closer to 9.5 with this combo there should be no doubt of it running fine on pump gas, hopefully regular grade.

I realize the +12 version might have turned out fine, I'm taking the position of the safer bet for a well-mannered daily driver engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Pistons have arrived.
NEXA3412[1] by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
IMG_2804[1] by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

I'll get these over to Howard on Monday. He can then proceed with balancing the assembly.

I'll have him zero deck the block to build us up to 9.3 (plus a tiny bit) on Static compression, Dynamic will be fine.

Is this a bit lower than the "perfect" target? ... Yes it is, but it will keep the engine very street friendly and fuel friendly.

I have to admit, I am still holding a bit of question on the heads (chamber cc) measuring at 68cc. These are heads stated by Dart (the factory) to be 64cc. I'd like to cc them myself once I get them home just to settle my questions.

If they do check in any smaller than the 68cc ... Then the 18cc in the pistons will provide relief. It's not that I don't trust Howard, it's that factory spec of 64cc and then an actual measurement of 68cc. Just seems really odd.
 
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