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Discussion Starter · #341 ·
Be careful the original gas caps had riviots on the back side. Some of the NOS gas caps have screws
Dave had mentioned this a few weeks ago (thank you) and I have not forgotten to check it out but I need some help here from other 68 camaro owners.
Dave, do you have more information concerning the rivets vs. screws? Pics?
Reason I'm concerned is I do not have the orig. gas cap and have no idea where it is but I did compare one extra NOS cap to what I believe to be a Nova gas cap. Notice in the pics the Nova cap (kinda of a white) has a much wider piece that is used to open/close and the underside has the screws with a plate but the NOS has no plate. On the Nova cap the center part of the underside is riveted to the plate and is held in place by the two screws going to the exterior handle where the NOS center part is riveted to the large round sheet-metal piece. By the way, that rivet process causes the large round sheet-metal plate to be warped. Other words, it does not lay flat whereas the Nova cap does.
Can anyone confirm what their orig. gas cap handle width is? The wider one of the two measures approximately .670" and what an orig. looks like underneath. Picture of an original would be greatly appreciated. A friend has a 68 survivor but it's a RS model.

 

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Discussion Starter · #343 ·
Chick, I have a cap (I'll try to get a pic, post) that I believe is original, with the rivets. It looks like the one on the right, but rivets instead of screws.

Paul
Hey thanks Paul but wanted you to know I have what I need as Jerry (aka 1968 Z28) placed a picture for me on the CRG. http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=8512.0
Greatly appreciate the help Paul:thumbsup:
Interesting that I purchased those caps in the late 80's I believe so not sure when they went to screws but that's what I have. Dang, painted two of them for nothing.
Now, anyone have a nice orig. 68 cap they will sell:yes: Or maybe a swap for a screwed NOS plus some coin?:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #344 ·
A few more updates on the front wiring harness, i.e. changing it to be more correct. If you remember we had changed the plastic prong holder that is used to plug into the headlights. Everyone I have seen or heard of has a white connector whereas the orig. had brown.
So what else was found?
1. The rubber hood that goes over the alternator terminal was different so I changed it over. Repro to the left....
2. There were two plastic wire ties that help keep the wire fastened. Our American Autowire did not have these two! Removed from orig. harness and installed on new harness.
3. The plastic prongs that attach the harness to the car are black on the orig. harness but white on the new harness. Not worth the change IMO.
4. A white pronged harness holder (only one on orig harness) Might change this one if I can find the correct tape.
Notice the amber bulb! Both of them almost (or maybe they were) seemed like they were painted.




 

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Discussion Starter · #345 ·
Picked up the interior today and I'm very happy! I had mentioned before that the seats and door panels were given to Al Knoch Interiors to do their magic and they came through. And it was just not covering but new burlap underneath, glass beading the springs, etc..... And the price, just extremely reasonable. If anyone wants their interior re-covered, orig. door panels restored or getting that dash pad done you should check them out. Elliott is a good source as he seems to be the member of the Al Knoch team who is heading up the Camaro end of the business. A friend took his interior from his 69 to them today as we dropped his off and picked mine up. Here are a few pics- Please note that if anyone knows of a NOS 69 dash pad Al Knoch is looking for one so they can finalize/pursue having quality repro 69 dash pads for sale. Any of us 69 owners know this sure would be nice!






 

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Started to take the wires off the fuse junction block and darn if the stud doesn't turn within the plastic block.

Chick,
If it will help the cause and can contribute to the project I will ship you another junction block which is an extra that I have. It needs a little clean up but is otherwise in very good shape. I know how hard these are to come by. Let me know if you need it and it is yours.
Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #347 ·
Chick,
If it will help the cause and can contribute to the project I will ship you another junction block which is an extra that I have. It needs a little clean up but is otherwise in very good shape. I know how hard these are to come by. Let me know if you need it and it is yours.
Rick
Wow, thanks Rick! This is exactly what I was saying in earlier posts how many people have helped me with information and in many cases parts. Will email you back with my mailing address. We have a great hobby and there are just some fantastic people involved with it, i.e. note above....
:beers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #349 ·
As an example, I need the original OEM brown tail light sockets for a 68 Camaro. Two double pole and two single pole sockets..........
Rick, I do not have any additional but will ask around. Is this is for a non RS 68? On our 68 the double pole were brown and the single pole were black. A friends 07E 68RS Z/28 survivor had all brown tail light sockets but they were all double pole if I remember correctly.

Updates:Updates:Updates:Updates:
Was talking to Al Knoch Interiors (Elliott) discussing their ability to restore other items like sun-visors, and pillar post seals which prompted me to pull some orig. parts out of storage. I of course have looked at those orig. pillar post seals many times over the years and they are very nice but this time it was a different look as I was trying to determine would they be good enough for this restoration after clean up or would they need restored, and something hit me that had not hit me before, the grain! One for sure has a much deeper grain but its the same configuration. I have wondered about this concerning dash pads as some like the one I obtained have had a shallow grain and others much more depth but never gave the pillar post seals a thought but can only assume this is something that occurred in the mfg. process. Notice the one on the left vs. the right one and these are the originals.




Next up the battery tray and clamp. Which one is correct? I have several of those batter clamps and most of the service replacements were just a bare metal but one I had was phosphated. And from what I know a battery clamp should be phosphated. But late this week an excellent source and one of Lonny's customers showed him an original 68 battery clamp on his car. I looked at it and took a picture but darn I don't remember them and will need to research to confirm. Will also check my friends 68 survivor but if anyone has any information please respond. The first picture is what I was told is factory correct vs. a later service replacement I have in the 2nd picture.



Not 100% sure but believe the orig. battery tray where the clamp is attached should be squared off but another area to research. The first picture is what I believe (someone help me on this) to be correct vs. a repop with a rounded edge where the battery clamp goes.

 

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Discussion Starter · #350 ·
Made a small change to the car this week concerning the trunk lid hinge. Whenever the lid was or is adjusted you leave those little marks from those washers with teeth. Lonny had told me this was being judged this year and if there were signs of adjustment there were point deductions. Now if and when you are painting a car this is a very simple fix with little $ involved but we missed it so we went back and took care of it. Also, I recently looked at two survivors (orig. paint) and neither had any signs of washer teeth marks. We will just use some other plastic washers to adjust and when adjustment is complete remove and replace one bolt/washer at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #351 ·
Will have more on this later but wanted to show the two front disc brake hoses we had re-stenciled to match what originally came on the car. Remember the rear hose, well the front ones look the same. Had a pair of GM #3910710 grp# 4.680 hoses purchased sometime in the 80's for the 67/68 4 piston disc brakes but they of course have the double crimp vs. the orig. single crimp. Believe JohnZ had mentioned this was a mandated change for safety reasons. If anyone is interested in having this done for their car PM me and I will supply some information. 69's can be done as well!



The middle hose is the rear original.
 

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Sorry haven't been on for a while, been too busy. Looks like you did get the correct pictures of the riviots on the cap. They do come around ( GM NOS with riviots) Last one was $150.00 Keep up the great work and pictures!
 

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Chick, The trunk lids on the survivors you saw don't have adjustment marks from washers because it was originally mounted, adjusted and then painted. Most declids have little paint coverage at the front due to this. And none between the hinge and decklid. Most of these cars are over restored as it pertains to paint and bodywork in those aspects, and deviate greatly from historical accuracy. Nice paint jobs absolutely, but few duplicate the factory appearance.
 

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As an example of what Scott is referring to, this is not a Camaro but rather a Chevelle but the process is the same (except for the latch). You can see the minimal coverage on the underside of the ribbing and around the hinge area. This is one we restored and was painted by Tom Scholtz. Over restored maybe but that is how they were done originally.


 

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Rick, by over restored I am referring to show paint, but the point was understood. Your Chevelle photos repesent restored. Overspray, missed spots, dryness were all typical. James(firstgenaddict) paints as the factory did with all the sloppiness; which is actually historically accurate.
 

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Well, one of the only times sloppiness is considered a compliment, I'm sure. :) I do find it interesting, the effort James makes in recreating the factory look. Sometimes though, imo, you gotta draw a line and do a restoration as RA Dave would say, "like the factory intended them to be". :thumbsup: I imagine even James may cross the line at times. As an example, it's been told subframes were stacked outside the factory and half rusted by the time they were installed. Would putting a rusty subframe under a car really be considered a restoration ?
 

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Well, one of the only times sloppiness is considered a compliment, I'm sure. :) I do find it interesting, the effort James makes in recreating the factory look. Sometimes though, imo, you gotta draw a line and do a restoration as RA Dave would say, "like the factory intended them to be". :thumbsup: I imagine even James may cross the line at times. As an example, it's been told subframes were stacked outside the factory and half rusted by the time they were installed. Would putting a rusty subframe under a car really be considered a restoration ?
William said that about the subframes. That would be crossing the line because some did get there before they rusted. Every car I've done for myself or customers was over restored. And so do the shops with whom I deal. That's what they pay for. Unfortunately as time passes, few will know what these cars actually looked like originally and most will assume they were manufactured with perfection. I walk by restored cars and look at survivors. Restored cars are nice and the work respected, but an untouched car is far more interesting to me. If two identical cars are done and one is replicated as the factory did it and one has flawless paint, which one should receive higher restoration honors?
 

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William said that about the subframes. That would be crossing the line because some did get there before they rusted. Every car I've done for myself or customers was over restored. And so do the shops with whom I deal. That's what they pay for. Unfortunately as time passes, few will know what these cars actually looked like originally and most will assume they were manufactured with perfection. I walk by restored cars and look at survivors. Restored cars are nice and the work respected, but an untouched car is far more interesting to me. If two identical cars are done and one is replicated as the factory did it and one has flawless paint, which one should receive higher restoration honors?

It really depends on how the judges feel and if they know how a factory car was built.
 

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It really depends on how the judges feel and if they know how a factory car was built.
I realize that. The question was presented in a more rhetorical manner than as an inquisitive one. Cross over to Moparland for even greater adherance to originality.
 
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