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Discussion Starter #1
My timing chain cover leaks. It actually leaks past the outside of the crankshaft seal because the cover is distorted, looks like someone tried to pry out the the seal with a crowbar in the past.

After reading up on timing chain covers about the weld for the lip seal I am very leery of ordering one because I don't want to use one that is spot welded.

I was hoping to get some advise on what's good and what to stay away from.

These are what I was considering:

-A stock fully welded cover (where do I
get one?)
-An aluminum cover with the seal lip part of the cover
-A two piece aluminum cover
because I am planning on a cam
shaft swap over the winter.

I had my eye on that comp cams 210, it's pricey though and if anyone has any feedback on this cover that would be great.

Engine is a gen1 350 small block with a short water pump.

Thanks guys, I don't know why I'm stuck on this but, any help would be greatly appreciated:beers:
 

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I like cast aluminum covers in general, they are beefier and seal well. I looked at the comp cams 210 cover also, but went with a Cloyes cast aluminum cover with an adjustable cam thrust button.
If going stamped steel buy the factory one, but even then they distort and can leak. I would buy the Comp one especially if a cam swap is in your future.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I looked into the Comp Cams 210 and it seems the best choice but, it's way over kill for me and I would have to reconfigure my timing pointer set up which I don't want to do.

Next was the Edelbrock 4242 2 piece which seemed the best bang for the buck but, after talking with Edelbrock and finding out the backing plate was steel with the oil pan seal groove spot welded in place, that was out.

So back to the one piece cover, looking into the Cloyes 1 piece aluminum or an original GM stamped steel which I can only find on Ebay used
 

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I just put an Edlebrock 2 piece stamped alumimum cover on my 355. $94 from jegs.

I like it
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I went with the Edelbrock 4242 and like John, I like it too. The backing plate with the oil pan lip seal is steel and the groove is spot welded on. I just packed the joint between the groove and backing plate with a little Ultra Black on the inside to help prevent oil weepage between the spot welds. It was an easy install.

I switched the water pump back cover bolts to 1/4 20 x 3/8 button head cap screws for extra clearance. I haven't installed the water pump yet but, I fit it with out a gasket and it seems that one gasket should give clearance. If not, double gaskets should be plenty, definitely don't need spacers.

Best part is, when i do the cam change soon, I don't have to mess with the oil pan at all.

I think it is a nice unit and the best of all words for short pumps in regards to functionality, economy, looks and, it doesn't seem like there will be any leaking issues.

Backing plate installed:


the little nuts on the bottom are 9mm nylock and directions say to only snug them so the don't loosen:




Blurry pic but, these button heads give needed clearance for the cover:


I also made a template of the removable cover gasket so when the cover is removed I can make my own gasket instead of buying the gasket kit.

Will update in a month about leaks if any.
 
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