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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 68 Camaro with American Racing Torq Thrust II rims. The drivers side front has a slow leak. Today I determined it is actually leaking through the weld in the rim not through the tire. Is this fixable or should I plan on buying a new rim.

Thanks in advance.

Justin
 

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Have fixed something similar once!
Cast Alu Wheels leaking in the Casting!

I used a small drillbit on the leakage halfway thru!
And then Injectors superglue with a needle!

It did work!




Larsperformance
 

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If it was a manufacturing defect, I would take a close look at the welds. A front wheel is nothing to mess with. Could it have been damages by a pot hole or another "jarring" type of hit. The tube is a sure fix. If the wheels are older it should not have just started to leak, it would have leaked from the beginning. A few things to consider.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I purchased the car in November and the tire always had the slow leak from the time I bought it. I know I personally never hit any pot holes or did anything else that could have damaged the rim. It has spent most of the time covered up in my garage over the long winter and I have only gotten it out for a few drives since I purchased it. Like you say a front wheel is nothing to mess with so I will probably just buy a new rim for peace of mind. If I do buy a new rim I'm concerned it will be noticeably newer looking than the other three that are on the car now even though they are in good condition. I guess I'll polish up the three old ones and see how it looks.
 

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Maybe you can have the wheel magnafluxed to identify the extent of damage. Check with local wheel and tire shops to find out where to get a wheel repaired in your area. In todays litigation happy world replace the wheel if a wheel repair shop says it's not something they want to do. Plugging a leak will stop the air from escaping but it won't stop the wheel from a critical failure at hwy speed...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Do the American Racing Torq Thrust II rims have a part number marked on them anywhere. I want to make sure I order the exact same rim that is on the car now.
 

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JB weld.
 

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After you verify it is not cracked, just clean well with a small wire brush & sandpaper, then apply some silicone gasket maker to the inside of the wheel.
 

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Yes, have it tested professionally. Maybe at a welding shop ?
If it's not detrimental to the soundness of the wheel...could have it TIG'd ? or as above clean, sand, and JB weld epoxy.

No sense risking you, your car, or someone else's life over cosmetics of the looks of 1 wheel being "newer looking".
 

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There's a place here in BC, Canada, http://www.interiorwheelrepair.com/ that handles wheel repairs. If you can find a similar place in your area you can have them inspect and likely repair where the slow leak is coming from.
 

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Don't know where you are in PA, but a former friend used there guys at least once a year on one or more of his crappy black Audis. The wheel repair guys did an amazing job, and I want to say I have seen this or other franchises at least as far west as York an Harrisburg.

http://www.wheelcollision.com/wccsvcs.html
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I decided I'm going to get a new rim then see if I can have the leaking rim fixed and just store it in the garage. I'm having a hard time figuring out if my rims are polished aluminum or chrome. I'm leaning toward polished aluminum because the reflection is a little dull. Also I checked them with a magnet and they are not magnetic. Does anyone know if chrome plating would be magnetic or does anyone have any advice on how to know for sure. When I called to check pricing they said the chrome rims only come with 4 inch back spacing but the polished aluminum come with either 3.75 back spacing or 4.25 back spacing. If my rims are polished aluminum I will have to pull the tire off and check the back spacing. If they are chrome I can just order the rim. At least according to the sales rep. Rims are 15 x 7.

Here are some pics:







By the way Eric I'm near Philadelphia. I'll check out the link you gave me and see if they are close by. I still want to get the leaking rim fixed even though I am getting a new one.
 

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Look like polished aluminum to me.
 

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I decided I'm going to get a new rim then see if I can have the leaking rim fixed and just store it in the garage. I'm having a hard time figuring out if my rims are polished aluminum or chrome. I'm leaning toward polished aluminum because the reflection is a little dull. Also I checked them with a magnet and they are not magnetic. Does anyone know if chrome plating would be magnetic or does anyone have any advice on how to know for sure. When I called to check pricing they said the chrome rims only come with 4 inch back spacing but the polished aluminum come with either 3.75 back spacing or 4.25 back spacing. If my rims are polished aluminum I will have to pull the tire off and check the back spacing. If they are chrome I can just order the rim. At least according to the sales rep. Rims are 15 x 7.

Here are some pics:


By the way Eric I'm near Philadelphia. I'll check out the link you gave me and see if they are close by. I still want to get the leaking rim fixed even though I am getting a new one.
you can also try wheel works in Burlington

What about a tube?
you should not put a tube in a tubeless tire.
 

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Or duct tape. Perhaps some WD-40 just for good measure?

Seriously, though, replace the wheel. It'll cost almost as much as a new wheel to get it repaired. Torque thrusts aren't that expensive compared to replacing the car when it flies apart at 60 mph...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Does anyone know what I should torque the lug nuts to on an American Racing Torq Thrust II rim. The I believe the rim is 15 X 7 with a 5 X 4.75 bolt pattern. I'm going to pull it off and check it tomorrow and want to torque the lug nuts correctly when I put it back on. Also the rim is two piece if that makes a difference.
 

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Does anyone know what I should torque the lug nuts to on an American Racing Torq Thrust II rim. The I believe the rim is 15 X 7 with a 5 X 4.75 bolt pattern. I'm going to pull it off and check it tomorrow and want to torque the lug nuts correctly when I put it back on. Also the rim is two piece if that makes a difference.
Tirerack instructed 85 ft-lbs when I got mine delivered.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Gbaur,

Thanks for the info. Mine are at about 95 ft-lbs right now. I came up with that number by checking the other front tire with a torque wrench and then making the tire I took off match. Not the best idea I ever had but it was all I had to go on.

Another question I have is my rims are lug centric meaning that the center bore diameter on the rim is larger than the hub diameter and the tire centers itself when you tighten the tapered lug nuts. Shouldn't my rims have hub centric rings that fit inside the center bore and make the rim hub centric meaning it locates and centers itself on the hub. Right now they do not. Without the rings all the sheer force is on the lug nuts which seems like a bad idea to me.

Second question I am having a problem finding the exact matching rim to replace the rim that is leaking through the weld. Mine is 15 X 7 with 3.750 backspacing 5 X 4.750 bolt pattern and 3.00 center bore diameter. I found a similar rim for sale at summit racing. Everything is the same but it has 2.862 center bore diameter. I'm thinking maybe my rim has been discontinued. I emailed American Racing and I am now waiting for a reply. If anyone knows about these rims I would appreciate their input.

Last question in the meantime I want to send my leaking rim out and get it fixed. Is it ok to jack the left side of my car only and leave it on one jack stand for a few days while the rim gets fixed or should I jack up the entire front. I don't have much room in my garage so jacking one side only is easier for me.
 

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95 is a lot for that size wheel stud. I would say it is too much. 85 is the most I would go.
 
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