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Awesome work Mike. Take a deep breath and make another push to get it to the next stage. WTG Bro
 
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Wow, that is coming along nicely. I have to say that your build is what helped me to have the guts to cut my fender and quarters to get my gaps where they need to be. Keep up the good work. Oh and Love the Vette!
 

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Discussion Starter · #384 ·
I blasted and repainted my bumper brackets and fit them loosely to the new bumper, so that was a good time to also begin fitting backup lights, bumper guards and taillights..I had to slot a few holes in the brackets but the fit is great now. The tag is just for fun...It came off my old RS convertible I sold over 25 years ago..



I'm skipping around on the car now that the list is getting shorter..I'm going to tackle the hood fit next..It has about a 3/16 crown on the drivers side above the fender..I believe it is the fault of the aftermarket hinge even though I slotted the bolt holes for more alignment range..Tomorrow I will reinstall the original hinge and see what happens there...If its not the hinge...I may have to try something drastic..
 

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Discussion Starter · #385 ·
tough to photograph, but the aftermarket SS hood has a slight crown..Just too much to let slide. So I will have to drill out the spot welds on each side and push down on the edges. Hopefully I can get the fit I need. Just when I think I'm done with modifying aftermarket sheetmetal...



 

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Discussion Starter · #387 ·
Good to see you are back to work on the convertible. I am going fishing this weekend. :smile2:
Not fair..but at least I am going out tomorrow in my friends brand new 32' World cat..twin 300s, radar,autopilot all the goodies..should be a good test of it with the SE wind thats predicted in the Gulf
 

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Discussion Starter · #388 ·
Just as an FYI, but you may want to read on..

I drilled out the spotwelds

And although the pic is terrible, I carefully padded the hood with foam and a thin wooden strip and clamped it as tightly as I could without risking damage to the hood, which only pulled the skin down 1/8th inch or so..

Is it worth the trouble?...I'd have to say no...I ended up creating more work and as I said, I only took at most 1/8th inch out of the crown. (Not really visible in a pic, so I didn't take an after shot.) When it's closed its slightly better but still has a bow at the center of the fender. I will STILL have to block it up and stand on it, again. (I did try this before on the first test fit, but I wasn't real aggressive with the downforce.) I have avoided trying again because I'm almost certain I'll create low spots if I put enough force on it to bend it to the proper contour. But I can't look at a crown forever either, so whatever it takes I will have to do it......Frustrating!
 

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Maybe the inner frame on your hood is doing its job. Even though the spot welds are drilled out, it is still preventing you from being able to push the metal down further.

I would make a relief cut in the part of the hood and frame that bends down. This is the area where you drilled out the spot welds. This might allow the frame to bend a little and flatten the hood. Once it is bent correctly, just weld up the cut. I think you will have access to both sides of the cut. The weld will disappear with grinding.

While you will be thinking about your hood, getting burned, and bloody, I will be catching the slabs. Sac-O-Lait, Crappie, White Perch. >:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #392 ·
Would it have made sense to try another hood?
Probably,John..but I have no other hood on hand unfortunately...
I have heard that others have had this problem with the aftermarket SS hoods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #393 ·
Maybe the inner frame on your hood is doing its job. Even though the spot welds are drilled out, it is still preventing you from being able to push the metal down further.

I would make a relief cut in the part of the hood and frame that bends down. This is the area where you drilled out the spot welds. This might allow the frame to bend a little and flatten the hood. Once it is bent correctly, just weld up the cut. I think you will have access to both sides of the cut. The weld will disappear with grinding.

While you will be thinking about your hood, getting burned, and bloody, I will be catching the slabs. Sac-O-Lait, Crappie, White Perch. >:)
Can't remember the last time I caught..or ATE some crappie! And yes, I thought about cutting the bracing but was concerned about loosing the profile of the hood., also I though (incorrectly) that I could get what I needed pushing the skin down with the spot welds loose...Going to have to try again...like most things on this heap!
 

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Discussion Starter · #395 ·
If you weren't so far away I would let you try my factory SS hood I picked up a while ago. I won't be using it on my car, so it will just be sitting in my storage shed.
Thanks Ryan..Yea, wish I was closer, that would be a bit of a drive!..I've actually got it looking a better by slicing the frame and standing on it. .Sounds like a hack job, but otherwise the hood is a $350 piece of junk. Even with the bracing cut, its still very hard to flex it noticably. I have it close now but it sure is requiring a bunch of extra work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #396 ·
Wow...several months since I've last posted. I've taken on a customer build (non-camaro unfortunately, and extremely labor intensive) so time has been short, but.. I've just recently been able to some quality time with mine, and it's getting close to driver status at least..

A problem though..Although I already had a manual convertible top frame mounted, I had the original power top in storage. I was missing the rams, pump..etc all of which I recently acquired. So, now I'm in the process of swapping over to power. Problem is, I'm unsure of the routing of the hoses, especially as they come out of the rams..I've managed to find a few pics of different cars online..but all had their lines routed differently..I have the 67 Camaro AIM and the Fisher body manual, but could not find any diagrams showing the routing clearly..

If anyone has a pic or diagram I'd greatly appreciate it !!
 

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About 4 months since your last post. Mr. Tim in Manorville, NY is another one that goes silent from time to time. Welcome back!

I am lucky, my car was in pristine condition before I took it apart. The bottom fitting on the hydraulic cylinder points up. The hydraulic pump mounts behind the rear seat.:wink2: You might have to fabricate the pump brackets. The hard part is to get the hydraulic cylinder mounted on the triangle brackets and slid down into position. The convertible top frame is huge and bulky. I found it is best to assemble just one side of the frame that goes above the windows. Next mount the other side. Then connect the side frames with the bows.

I don't want to clutter up your build thread with Firebird photos. I sent you a message with photos of the system before I took it apart. All my Flickr photos are public. Just click on one of them and it will send you to my collection if you need more photos.
 

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Thanks so much Patrick..the pics did the trick..Just to confirm though, the straight hose connector goes into the bottom of the ram...90 degree one for the top, correct?
Good question. I don't know. Maybe someone else can give you and answer. I Googled different Camaro/Firebird hoses. The results are interesting.

Some reproduction hoses have a straight fitting and a 90 degree fitting on one hose. (classic industries)

Other reproduction hoses have two 90 degree fittings. (ames performance, ricks camaros)

I seen one hose set that had two 90s on one hose and two straights on the other hose. (ebay)

My original hose looks like it had two 45 degree fittings on one hose.
My new hose has two 90s (ames).

If you got a straight end, don't kink the tubing. You might have to route it so the hose has a gradual bend. The bottom of the hydraulic cylinders move
as the top is raised and lowered. That is why GM did not use rigid brake lines. Instead, they had to use flexible lines. The pump uses inverted flare 1/2x20 fitting. The cylinders use 7/16x24 brake line fitting. You might need to purchase an adapter?

If you got two straights on one hose, consider fastening the cylinder so that the fitting next to the piston points down. This fitting does not move too much at the pivot point and having it point down would require a smaller radius loop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #400 ·
Good question. I don't know. Maybe someone else can give you and answer. I Googled different Camaro/Firebird hoses. The results are interesting.

Some reproduction hoses have a straight fitting and a 90 degree fitting on one hose. (classic industries)

Other reproduction hoses have two 90 degree fittings. (ames performance, ricks camaros)

I seen one hose set that had two 90s on one hose and two straights on the other hose. (ebay)

My original hose looks like it had two 45 degree fittings on one hose.
My new hose has two 90s (ames).

If you got a straight end, don't kink the tubing. You might have to route it so the hose has a gradual bend. The bottom of the hydraulic cylinders move
as the top is raised and lowered. That is why GM did not use rigid brake lines. Instead, they had to use flexible lines. The pump uses inverted flare 1/2x20 fitting. The cylinders use 7/16x24 brake line fitting. You might need to purchase an adapter?

If you got two straights on one hose, consider fastening the cylinder so that the fitting next to the piston points down. This fitting does not move too much at the pivot point and having it point down would require a smaller radius loop.

As best as I can tell, the angled fitting goes into the top of the ram, while the straight fitting goes into the bottom and makes a gentle loop..The next question will be whether or not the lines leak. The pump was stuck, but a quick disassembly and cleanup got it going.



Although my car was originally a power top, the top frame and all hardware was long gone so I installed a manual frame...As I was cleaning out a warehouse of the former owner recently, I found the original power top frame, but still had no other hardware. A few days ago a guy had all the rams, brackets, lines and pump for sale for 75 bucks...Couldn't pass that up, and it'll be great to have its "born with" power top again.
 
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