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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The upper transmission line into my aluminum radiator is leaking a small amount. I have tightened the fitting to the point I’m afraid to go any more. Is there a way to stop that leak without damaging the aluminum radiator or by tightening it more?
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get copper reverse flare gasket (washer). Can't recall the size (3/16"?) but I bought mine on amazon for a few $. it will seal it right up. Put a thin dab (read very small) of grease on the side you first put on the flare line to hold it on while installing
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
get copper reverse flare gasket (washer). Can't recall the size (3/16"?) but I bought mine on amazon for a few $. it will seal it right up. Put a thin dab (read very small) of grease on the side you first put on the flare line to hold it on while installing
Do you measure by line size or inside diameter?
 

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68 Camaro SS/RS, 454 BB 4 speed, 3.73 Posi, new paint, motor mods , trans and diff assembly. 2" Drop
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Make sure the flare end of the tube is clean, smooth and not cracked or split. If theres any marks on it from dirt of being overtightened will be transferred onto the radiator fitting. If thats the case then either the copper washers or somewhere I have seen a dressing tool that threads into female side and you can dress the mating surface. I forgot where I saw these though. Good luck.
 

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1968 Camaro LS3 TH400
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I’d give the line end a look first to make sure it’s not a cracked flare.
I like the copper gaskets 👍
But in the event it’s just a seating issue on the steel flare …….well there’s this .
It’s probably more than you’d care to spend but Koul tools has this

when I was younger, I bought whatever tool I could afford. Now ….there’s gonna be a bunch of used once …for sale stuff when I’m gone. 🙄
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think the problem I’m having is that the tubing is not quite centered in the opening. I have to force the tubing around to get it into the opening and move it around to start to fasten it in. I don’t have any way to bend the tubing to allow it to fit better. Will the copper flare gasket compensate for this.
 

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You should be able to gently pull/bend the line to better line up squarely and go deep enough to the radiator fitting. The copper flare washer should resolve your issue. It did for me

And as corrected the trans line is 5/16. I bought the flare washers on Amazon

These copper flare washers have resolved both trans/radiator & brake line to proportioning valve leaks for me. Sold in various sizes
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was working to get ready to put a copper flare gasket on my transmission line. I unscrewed the nut and pulled on the line. The flare hung up on the threads and I pushed down and pulled and it suddenly came out and I kinked the line a little. Do I need to replace the line or am I still good?
Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle Automotive tire
 

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Ben - Delaware - 67 Camaro
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go with nylon braided AN hose and fittings. never had them leak and easier to work with than hard line. looks better IMO too
 

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NEVER use thread sealing tape on flared fittings. The "flare" part is the sealing surface, not the threads. The threads are just the compression provider onto the flared surfaces

OP, from the pic it looks like the line is slightly compressed closed but not fully closed so should be OK. Hard to really tell in the pic.

Tranny line replacement though is not hard if you feel it has been compromised (kinked) to much. Your view is better than ours
 

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68 Camaro SS/RS, 454 BB 4 speed, 3.73 Posi, new paint, motor mods , trans and diff assembly. 2" Drop
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IIRC the hard line for trans just off the radiator has rubber hose connection because of movement/vibration, so you would only have to change a short piece of hard line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My lines appear to be all metal with a rubber hose around part that rubs against metal. There are no clamps of any kind so I don’t think I have any rubber portion of the line. The car is in my garage with not a lot of clearance. I’m old enough that’s it’s a real pain to get under the car in cramped conditions. 😥
 

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tranny lines are solid, no rubber sections

Op, you can splice a section of line with 5/16" compression fitting. You could buy a premade 5/16 line with fittings on each end. Cut off one end, bend new line as needed (harbor freight has cheap tube benders) and use the compression (brass) fitting to connect the cut ends (old & new line)

With that said IDK how kinked your line actually is and what, if any, issue it would be functionally speaking. You could just start the motor and see if trans fluid FLOWS out which to me would indicate its no big deal just to connect it as is. Might want to have a helper start the car as fluid would QUICKLY come out. Have bare end in a donor catch container

Most of us are up there in years but if you don't have a way to safely raise the car to work on it from underneath you could always just buy a new line and bring it and the car to a trans shop who could install it in 15 min....
 

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I was working to get ready to put a copper flare gasket on my transmission line. I unscrewed the nut and pulled on the line. The flare hung up on the threads and I pushed down and pulled and it suddenly came out and I kinked the line a little. Do I need to replace the line or am I still good?
View attachment 280923
Yes.

Is there a braided hose (like fuel line)
that can carry ATF ?
 

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1968 Camaro LS3 TH400
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You could try to take some of that kink out with a radius tool of sorts but that’s a lot of bother, and would require removal.
I prefer hard lines too, but I have all the stuff
It requires a proper tube bender, and all the small tube is double flaired. Plus a little extra tube to figure the allowance and deductions for the radius your working with….This all started with that nuisance leak so a new line fixes it all…..so I’d say go with SoCal805 advice and just take it in to the local shop.
 
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