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Use a small dab of oil on the backside of the flair and on the nut threads. This will keep the fitting from binding as you tighten it up.
 

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The seal is between the cone on the radiator, and the flare on the tube. The nut and threads are just there to press those two together, and are not part of the seal.

I had a similar leak, turned out PO had cheaped out and did a single flare, and it wasn't sealing. I re-flared the end of the tube, and it sealed fine. The bad flare had caused a nick on the cone surface that I was nervous about, but it worked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I appreciate all the replies and suggestions. My flare gasket will arrive Friday but I’m still exploring all my options. I see a lot of stainless flexible lines with an fittings. Does anyone have any experience with them? I’m guessing that they are made in China.
 

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I appreciate all the replies and suggestions. My flare gasket will arrive Friday but I’m still exploring all my options. I see a lot of stainless flexible lines with an fittings. Does anyone have any experience with them? I’m guessing that they are made in China.
Yep….I try to buy good stuff made in the USA but it will make you cringe sometimes…paying $20-$30 for a fitting.
I used a combination of hard stainless and braided with AN fittings for the external trans cooler.
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Strange after working on cars for four decades I can still get a flare fitting to seal. Stainless lines are the exception.
I replaced the radiator with an aluminum one. Apparently the upper inlet is not quite in the same location causing the line to be at a slight angle and not giving a good seal. It’s a slight leak but I don’t want any leak!
 

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Make sure the flare meets the cone WITHOUT needing to use the threads. If you're using the nut to draw it into place, you're setting yourself up for failure. It should line up and meet squarely without any help. And if you crank on that nut too many times, the threads in the radiator are gonna get tired, and then you'll have an even bigger problem.
 

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Make sure the flare meets the cone WITHOUT needing to use the threads. If you're using the nut to draw it into place, you're setting yourself up for failure. It should line up and meet squarely without any help. And if you crank on that nut too many times, the threads in the radiator are gonna get tired, and then you'll have an even bigger problem.
Great advice.
 
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Took a better look at the flare on the tubing. Doesn’t look real good.
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You can get a lapping tool to resurface it....or just try the flare copper gasket

or cut the end off and re-flare it if you have a flare tool
 

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By kinking the tubing you're half way to solving this issue. Cut the old line behind the kink, buy a new line that is flared from parts store and bend it to fit. Connect with compression fitting and go racing!

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
By kinking the tubing you're half way to solving this issue. Cut the old line behind the kink, buy a new line that is flared from parts store and bend it to fit. Connect with compression fitting and go racing!

Jeff
DEcided to cut the old line. I’ve got it bent and have the compression fitting ready. I’ll probably try to finish it up this weekend. I appreciate all the help and ideas presented by all of you..got to get the car back on the road.
 
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