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Years ago I had a car that I installed the battery in the trunk. I installed one of these for safety http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/1333043/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046 . I never had a problem with it of starting the car. That was years ago and I'm older now. Is this safe? It worked nice when I had to cut the power off to the car. I was thinking if anything happend to the wire feeding the started it would just trip. The breaker was mounted to the batt box then ran to the starter. Should I set it up again if I do a batt in the trunk?
 

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The amp rating on that model is 100. That's a little low. I'd shoot for higher, maybe twice as high. These guys just came out with a new line of high amp breakers but they sell marine stuff. Translation-not needed. $$$$ http://www.bluesea.com/
 

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The amp rating on that model is 100. That's a little low. I'd shoot for higher, maybe twice as high. ...http://www.bluesea.com/
I was thinking just the opposite. 100 amps is a hellova load. Sounds like a fusable link is needed to me if you really want a 100Amp circuit. Just be sure to put the link somewhere it can burn in two without catching stuff on fire. Chances are you don't need that much current as Jim stated.

What kind of loads are you putting on the electrical system?
 

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I was thinking just the opposite. 100 amps is a hellova load. Sounds like a fusable link is needed to me if you really want a 100Amp circuit. Just be sure to put the link somewhere it can burn in two without catching stuff on fire. Chances are you don't need that much current as Jim stated.

What kind of loads are you putting on the electrical system?
I was assuming that he wanted to protect the starter cable because of its' long run. I have a similar run with my car and it has no protection. I'm uneasy about that. On boats/yachts there is NO requirement for starter cable protection because it's not practical but that may change. For my boat, the long starter cable is kept separate from the others and only contacts fiberglass. I'm comfortable with that cable.:p
 

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I think most of the guys here run the cables forward to the firewall inside the passenger side of the interior and then to the starter via a bung. When I did mine about 33 years ago I didn't know about stuff like bungs. Here's the latest view. Well not really 'latest'. Now there's a NHRA shut-off switch and a 'hot wire' for the fuel pump.

You can see the cables going forward above the rearend.

This may not be the best way to do it but it's sure stood the test of time.
 

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Is that electrical wiring bundled to the fuel line? :noway:

You can always run a jumper strap at the GM solenoid (battery, starter and S terminal) on the starter and wire your key switch to a Ford style solenoid mounted back at the battery, leaving your cable dead except while cranking the engine.
 

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Is that electrical wiring bundled to the fuel line? :noway:

You can always run a jumper strap at the GM solenoid (battery, starter and S terminal) on the starter and wire your key switch to a Ford style solenoid mounted back at the battery, leaving your cable dead except while cranking the engine.
What's wrong with that???:confused:
 

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So you have a short, it burns the insulation off, it further arcs and burns into the fuel line...gasoline...spark...fuel fire. This could even happen from a traffic accident. I never route any electrical bundled to any fuel lines.
 

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So you have a short, it burns the insulation off, it further arcs and burns into the fuel line...gasoline...spark...fuel fire. This could even happen from a traffic accident. I never route any electrical bundled to any fuel lines.
Aw come on! What are the odds??? Hagerty likes it to the tune of six figures!:hurray:
 

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Do any of you route your battery cables through the inside of the car?
I did one like that on a friend's 69. Ran the positive cable through the seat back panel, under the back seat, and through the passenger wire tray. Under the heater box I used a bulkhead connector. On the other side of the connector I just used a short 1' battery cable to the starter.

On mine, I ran my wiring like Fred (except I have a Ford solenoid on the battery box). Although it isn't tied directly to the fuel line it does run next to the fuel line for a few feet. One difference is that I wrapped the wire bundle in friction tape for scuff protection. You really don't have many other choices in the rear of the car unless you run the wires inside the car. At least the rear subframe protects the fuel lines and wiring from flying tire debris in the event of a blown tire or crash.
 

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PS. I wouldn't bother with the big breaker on the battery cable because unless you have a short on the cable or the starter it really doesn't proect anything. I have seen 16 gauge wires smoke due to a short and it still didn't blow a 30A fuse.
 
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