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Cam swap in saudi? Why is that a concern?


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Who are you going to get to redo your tune? You can barely find someone to do basic maintenance. Is there a dyno tuner in Saudi? Is he any good?

Also waiting for you to install a huge cam that produces low vacuum and then seeing your complaints that your brakes don’t work....

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Yes we have really good experienced tuners over here, tune part will be easy. Also, installing parts.. finally found a good shop & experienced mechanics..

The ones who just helped me get my car back on the road.


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I don't recall what engine you have. You say LS2. Is it an aluminum block or an Iron block that could be an LQ4 or LQ9?
What is the casting # on the heads?

Depending on the above and what cam you use you may also need to fly cut the piston for PTV clearance.
Iron block , 317 cast on the heads


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Iron block , 317 cast on the heads


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ok. You do NOT have a LS2. You have either an LQ4 or LQ9. The LQ9 was limited production so odds are you have an LQ4.

the only difference between the LQ4 and LQ9 are the pistons. At manufacturing there was a sticker placed on the rear of engine on the head telling you what engine it is. Without the sticker the only way to tell is to look at the pistons. LQ4 are dished pistons and LQ9 are flat top.

the shop can pull a spark plug and look at the piston with a bore scope to see what piston/engine you have.

the LQ4 is 300 HP and the LQ9 is 345.

you need to know what you have before you start upgrading.

 

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Discussion Starter #25
ok. You do NOT have a LS2. You have either an LQ4 or LQ9. The LQ9 was limited production so odds are you have an LQ4.

the only difference between the LQ4 and LQ9 are the pistons. At manufacturing there was a sticker placed on the rear of engine on the head telling you what engine it is. Without the sticker the only way to tell is to look at the pistons. LQ4 are dished pistons and LQ9 are flat top.

the shop can pull a spark plug and look at the piston with a bore scope to see what piston/engine you have.

the LQ4 is 300 HP and the LQ9 is 345.

you need to know what you have before you start upgrading.

I see now, ok and just to verify the intake manifold on mine ...Ls2?


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It is not an LS2 intake.

It is an LS1 Intake and the fuel rail hase been flipped so the fuel inlet is on the passenger side.

272597
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
It is not an LS2 intake.

It is an LS1 Intake and the fuel rail hase been flipped so the fuel inlet is on the passenger side.

View attachment 272597
Ok so im doing ALOT of reading .. found a really good guide: The Definitive Guide to LS Engine Specs and LS Engine Upgrades

Now that you’ve helped identify my LQ4 block , 317 heads and Ls1 intakes.
What other parts should i identify next, before planning on upgrading for more power?

Would you advise i go with this route: replacing & going with ls3 heads & ls3 or 6 Intake? And then choose the cam.. based on that?

Instead of choosing a cam for my current setup and then later just ending up to want more power etc.

Thanks again


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You verified it's an LQ4? How?
 

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The LS3 heads will work. The LS3 Intake is not designed for Cable TB so you'll need an after market part like this


Not sure if the injectors and fuel rail will work with adapters.

It's a lot of work/money to put LS3 heads and intake on an LQ4. Maybe better with aftermarket heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
You verified it's an LQ4? How?
No no lol just based on your hunch, also since both lq4 & 9 are similar apart from the CR

Wouldnt the same upgraded heads/intakes fit on both? I’ll verify regardless by checking the pistons


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The LS3 heads will work. The LS3 Intake is not designed for Cable TB so you'll need an after market part like this


Not sure if the injectors and fuel rail will work with adapters.

It's a lot of work/money to put LS3 heads and intake on an LQ4. Maybe better with aftermarket heads.
Ya I’m open to other options, aftermarket. Any in particular?


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Ya I’m open to other options, aftermarket. Any in particular?


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Well all depends on how much cash you want to part with. The bottom ends of these are not the best for big HP. Block is fine but the rotating assem,bly is the weakest link. On top of that yo're perhaps going deep money into and engine of unknown overall condition.

Best would be to build a stroker with forged pistions, cam, springs, trunion upgraded rockers, upgraded rods and the LS3 top end.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Well all depends on how much cash you want to part with. The bottom ends of these are not the best for big HP. Block is fine but the rotating assem,bly is the weakest link. On top of that yo're perhaps going deep money into and engine of unknown overall condition.

Best would be to build a stroker with forged pistions, cam, springs, trunion upgraded rockers, upgraded rods and the LS3 top end.
Honestly, cash aside because I don’t know how much it would cost..and also I don’t want to cut corners, but i also don’t want to spend over $2-4k (if that’s reasonable)

Ultimately, I want a get a little more power to enjoy cruises, +50wheel would be great!!

Based on my block (whether it’s an Lq4 or 9) my top 3 upgrades im looking to swap:

-cam
-headers
-good tune
-intake (unless my Ls1 would work great with the above parts)


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Intake is ok.
Headers yes
Cam and new valve springs
Tune - most important.

should be able to get there with the budget you have.

you’ll get many opinions on cams. I would consider this one with new springs

Competition Cams (COMP) we came up with a custom-grind stick (PN 54-000-11, $407). Duration (at 0.050-inch) is 231/238 and the lift came in at 0.598/0.586. The full grind info is LS1 13045R / 3652R HR114+2.
 

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Headers will not buy you much cruising improvement imho. They are more of a peak hp at peak rpm improvement. If you have duals already and looking for 50 hp, headers arent going to give you much bang for your buck.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Intake is ok.
Headers yes
Cam and new valve springs
Tune - most important.

should be able to get there with the budget you have.

you’ll get many opinions on cams. I would consider this one with new springs

Competition Cams (COMP) we came up with a custom-grind stick (PN 54-000-11, $407). Duration (at 0.050-inch) is 231/238 and the lift came in at 0.598/0.586. The full grind info is LS1 13045R / 3652R HR114+2.
Awesome thank you. So is this the cam you’re rereferring: COMP Cams 54-000-11 COMP Cams Custom Ground Camshaft Cores | Summit Racing

Which valve springs or link?

Also which headers would be better? Mid?shorties? I know most recom 1-7/8” .. i need to identify my pypes if they’re 2.5 or 3”


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Discussion Starter #37
Headers will not buy you much cruising improvement imho. They are more of a peak hp at peak rpm improvement. If you have duals already and looking for 50 hp, headers arent going to give you much bang for your buck.

Don
Headers mostly to improve / more aggressive noise.. i like how my car sounds now but maybe something more aggressive

This is mine:



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A cam can make or break a combo.

A cam and shaved heads for some compression...otherwise stock long block....mostly.

 

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Your intake could be an LS1 or LS6 (only way to tell is part number or flip it over to see if the bottom is flat or curved). LS6 has more plenum volume and is worth a few more hp over the LS1. Stock passenger car LS2 intakes did not perform well unfortunately. Dorman makes a good LS2 intake (you need a 90mm throttle body), but unfortunately for some reason they've jacked their pricing as high as the superior FAST intakes. Until you start porting the heads though, the current intake will be be sufficient anyway.

Long tube headers will see big power increase across the entire power range (even off-idle) over shorty or stock type manifolds. Mid-length basically sits between long tubes and shorties. Swapping shorty headers for stock manifolds is not worth it (the stock manifolds are basically shorties - only get few hp because of larger primaries). Speed Engineering sells some good budget long tubes for your swap.

Camshaft depends on operating range and rear gearing, and trans gearing. You haven't mentioned those specifics, unless I missed it. But a good cam that works ups to 6200+rpm in an LQ4, would be the Summit SUM-8720. If you want to trade some bottom and mid-range for top end, the SUM-8715 would be another good choice, but it'd be better if you milled the heads for more compression if you go with that cam (or anything bigger for that matter). Either can be tuned fairly easy by someone who knows what they're doing. Get some PAC-1218s springs to go with it. You'll also want some stronger pushrods. And definitely upgrade the rocker arms or you'll kill the stock needle bearings. CHE trunion upgrade is pretty proven. No need to go with a stupid-big bumpstick unless you plan to increase displacement, or spin it up to 7k on a regular basis. You're just sacrificing a lot of low end and midrange for top end. And a big cam with meager compression ratio will be a disaster.

Stock LQ4/9 bottom end is fine for NA applications. Typically they can withstand 700-800 boosted whp (provided rings have been properly gapped for boost and timing/fuel tune is correct). So you should have no problems with NA unless you're planning a 250 shot of nitrous or something.

While they're in there performing the cam, it's a good time to upgrade to a Melling high pressure oil pump for insurance.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Your intake could be an LS1 or LS6 (only way to tell is part number or flip it over to see if the bottom is flat or curved). LS6 has more plenum volume and is worth a few more hp over the LS1. Stock passenger car LS2 intakes did not perform well unfortunately. Dorman makes a good LS2 intake (you need a 90mm throttle body), but unfortunately for some reason they've jacked their pricing as high as the superior FAST intakes. Until you start porting the heads though, the current intake will be be sufficient anyway.

Long tube headers will see big power increase across the entire power range (even off-idle) over shorty or stock type manifolds. Mid-length basically sits between long tubes and shorties. Swapping shorty headers for stock manifolds is not worth it (the stock manifolds are basically shorties - only get few hp because of larger primaries). Speed Engineering sells some good budget long tubes for your swap.

Camshaft depends on operating range and rear gearing, and trans gearing. You haven't mentioned those specifics, unless I missed it. But a good cam that works ups to 6200+rpm in an LQ4, would be the Summit SUM-8720. If you want to trade some bottom and mid-range for top end, the SUM-8715 would be another good choice, but it'd be better if you milled the heads for more compression if you go with that cam (or anything bigger for that matter). Either can be tuned fairly easy by someone who knows what they're doing. Get some PAC-1218s springs to go with it. You'll also want some stronger pushrods. And definitely upgrade the rocker arms or you'll kill the stock needle bearings. CHE trunion upgrade is pretty proven. No need to go with a stupid-big bumpstick unless you plan to increase displacement, or spin it up to 7k on a regular basis. You're just sacrificing a lot of low end and midrange for top end. And a big cam with meager compression ratio will be a disaster.

Stock LQ4/9 bottom end is fine for NA applications. Typically they can withstand 700-800 boosted whp (provided rings have been properly gapped for boost and timing/fuel tune is correct). So you should have no problems with NA unless you're planning a 250 shot of nitrous or something.

While they're in there performing the cam, it's a good time to upgrade to a Melling high pressure oil pump for insurance.
thank you for the detailed info, very helpful !! .. I'll try to identify my intakes by taking them off and confirming. As for the headers, I can go with long tube .. I'm trying to figure out fitment with my current X pipes, which I'm not sure about the details on the part (was installed by previous owner - no part #). I know my mufflers are from Pypes probably a 2.5" StreetPro. Pipes would have to be 3" for the headers correct?









 
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