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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 67 camaro and I have the digitalis led taillights and the original parking lights up front. I am using one electrical flasher relay and one original style relay in the fuse panel. This worked fine for me before with no issues, I just wanted to give you a quick visual before I started.

Okay here's the issue I'm running into.

1) The hazards work fine with both, the light on or the lights off. No issues.

2) When the left turn signal is on, I get the front left signal working correctly, BUT BOTH rear lights are blinking. and the blinking seems a little fast.

3) When the right turn signal is on, I get the rear light working properly, BUT now BOTH FRONT lights are blinking. The blinking may be a little fast like this too.

Both of the flasher relays are clicking when in use. Can they go bad but still click?

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Re: Turn signals not working properly, any suggestions???

Sounds very likely to be a bad ground... bad grounds = weird things happen
Check the ground in the trunk that screws to the side of the brace that holds the trunk catch..
Do any of the bulbs , or the old ones have sort of 'silvering' inside the glass or a slight milky look to them....this idicates bad grounds...bad grounds = resistance. resistance = bigger current draw and since the ground is after the bulb, this bigger current is drawn thru the bulb, which results in the filiments operating too hot and vapourise slowly onto the inside of the bulb glass.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re: Turn signals not working properly, any suggestions???

I thought ground too at first.

I had the whole passenger fender off, while installing a vintage air unit but then I put it back on. I actually forgot the ground for the front parking light, before I posted, and figured, okay solved it. But no, it didn't. So that's why I'm searching for help.

Once again, all lights work when the lights are on and hazards work fine:confused:

Btw, my car is a rs too, so the front lights are in the valance and the rear backups are below the bumper, by themselves. Not sure if this makes any difference?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Re: Turn signals not working properly, any suggestions???

You know, I am not using the aww 500832 flasher with my LEDs. I went to the store and found an electric flasher that used the same 2 prongs and tried that out instead. It's worked for the last 2 years so I don't think it's that, BUT the one aww sells has an extra ground wire that comes out of it, and the one I have does not.

Here's the one I have:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...l-flasher/_/N-26fp?itemIdentifier=193129_0_0_

Is it important to have the one with the ground?
Am I doing any damage using the one I matched up at the store with out the ground?

Thanks again.
 

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Re: Turn signals not working properly, any suggestions???

Try a 552 heavy duty flasher.
Since both ends are flashing, front & rear, when a side is selected, this means the selected side has a bad ground. The selected side is using the opposite side filaments as a ground.
If you do get a flasher with a ground wire, yes, connect the lead to ground.
 

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You have a 24 volt flasher in there which really shouldn't work, but by your descriptions it does, so I wouldn't change it. If you decide to change it, use an EL12 or an LL552. If you use a standard 552 (tin can flasher) I expect you will get no flash due to not enough current draw. You are not doing any damage with the flasher you have.

I agree with the others that it sounds like a grounding issue.

FWIW I work at the company that makes the flashers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Re: Turn signals not working properly, any suggestions???

You have a 24 volt flasher in there which really shouldn't work, but by your descriptions it does, so I wouldn't change it. If you decide to change it, use an EL12 or an LL552. If you use a standard 552 (tin can flasher) I expect you will get no flash due to not enough current draw. You are not doing any damage with the flasher you have.

I agree with the others that it sounds like a grounding issue.

FWIW I work at the company that makes the flashers.
Great! Then maybe you can help me out with this question.

If a flasher goes bad, could it possibly click like it's working and/or could it do what I'm explaining?

I checked the ground to the rear led lights and even re-ground them to an additional area (double grounding) and I didnt get any different results. The only grounding areas would be at the lights themselves, right? There's no other areas under the dash that I could of affected while doing the AC setup, right?
 

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Re: Turn signals not working properly, any suggestions???

As a troubleshooting guide, use a 12 volt flasher, as RW suggests, the LL552.
Put a jumper on each terminal, one terminal to BAT spade of fuse panel, the other jumper to each individual turn signal wire of the disconnected steering connector.

See if each corner will flash. If not, troubleshoot the corner socket, generally a ground.
Rear lights ground through the socket to the bezel to the tail panel.
Front lights ground through a pigtail to the rad support.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Re: Turn signals not working properly, any suggestions???

As a troubleshooting guide, use a 12 volt flasher, as RW suggests, the LL552.
Put a jumper on each terminal, one terminal to BAT spade of fuse panel, the other jumper to each individual turn signal wire of the disconnected steering connector.

See if each corner will flash. If not, troubleshoot the corner socket, generally a ground.
Rear lights ground through the socket to the bezel to the tail panel.
Front lights ground through a pigtail to the rad support.
I think I am gonna go and buy a new flasher as he suggests and go from there.

Btw, my rear lights are not regular incandescent bulbs, they are the LEDs back there. They no longer ground at the sockets holes. The LEDs have a ground wire that I grounded right to one of the bolts that hold the bezel to the body, so i cant see that not grounding properly, but I still tested it anyway.
 

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You might move the ground lead from the bezel nut to the fuel filler cover screw on the pass side, already a ground lead there, I think, plus, it has a toothed lock washer.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So is it possible that a flasher relay will click like it's working but really is not functioning properly?
 

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Yes, the 512 flasher relies on the load, meaning the number of bulbs, determines the rate of flashing, one side corner bulbs and the dash indicator - add a fourth bulb or change an 1156 to another number, and flashing rate changes.

Flasher 552 is heavy duty and is internallt timed independent of load. Used in trailer applications as it can handle up to at least 6 bulbs and rate does not change, whether one bulb or six bulbs.

The flasher you are using may not be able to handle the load now since the rear bulbs have been replaced with high impedance LEDS (less current load).
 

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I have a flasher unit I put in yrs ago, given to me by a auto sparkie.
It works and flashes at the same speed regardles if have the trailer on or a couple bulbs have blown...
Maybe one of those is what is required?
 

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So is it possible that a flasher relay will click like it's working but really is not functioning properly?
Sorry I was off the board for a few days. Normally if the flasher is clicking it is working, in particular since your lights are flashing, just not the right way. Give me a bit to dig through some old posts, I remember one where LED modules were back feeding...
 

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Look at this post and check the grounds on your front turn housings:

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1663470#post1663470

I don't think your flashers are bad. I looked at the digitails instructions and don't understand what is happening in the back, but in the front it could be a ground for sure. I don't have the wiring diagram handy to see if the front could also be causing what you see in the back.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Look at this post and check the grounds on your front turn housings:

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1663470#post1663470

I don't think your flashers are bad. I looked at the digitails instructions and don't understand what is happening in the back, but in the front it could be a ground for sure. I don't have the wiring diagram handy to see if the front could also be causing what you see in the back.
Great post you made before, helps out alot. Looking at that really make me believe that it has to do with my right front parking light. Like I said before, I messed with that one a little when I had the fender off while installing the vintage air system. I wonder if i damaged a wire or separated something from the base. I did have that ground off but did reconnect it again when I was done. Maybe it got free from the base.

I will have to check it this Friday or Saturday and report back my findings.

Btw, the rear digitalis grounds are both together in my setup so they should not be the problem since I really didn't touch anything back there. The only weird thing is how when the right or left signals are chosen, it does the opposite thing from the other, as stated in my previous post.
 

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Turn signal switch choses the side selected
Right side: dark green - rear, dark blue - front.
Left side: yellow - rear, light blue - front.
These colors come out the steering column connector to the appropriate places. Power is from the flasher, pink is from fuse panel to flasher, purple from flasher to t/signal switch. Yes, power does go through the emergency flasher and uses the same color out the column connector.

For grins, run a separate ground wire from the rear lights to the battery and view the results. If they work as selected, poor ground or back feed through the circuit, might remove the opposite ground wire from the unselected side and see what happens.
 

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...Looking at that really make me believe that it has to do with my right front parking light....
If you have a multi meter, check the resistance from the battery ground to the inside of the lamp socket. Should be very low, like 10 Ohms or less.

I like Everett's idea on a hard ground to the back just to check as well.
 

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The flasher cans are not relays. They are bimetallic (2 metals that expand and contract at different rates with temperature) strip switches. We know they aren't relays because they have 2 terminals.

Turn signal on, current flows creating heat. This makes the bimetallic strip warm. Since the 2 metals expand at different rates, the strip bends, opening the switch contacts.

If you have no blink, you have too little current.
Fast blink, too much current.
Since the left and right are somewhat independent, you can have multiple problems.
Think about how the brake lights work. Same filament as turn sigs.
4 way flashers?

Understanding how things work helps to troubleshoot the problem...
 

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Think about how the brake lights work. Same filament as turn sigs.
4 way flashers?
Out of interst from where calssic cars by far the majority and populaty britch and European are way about American....sry just the way it is here.
So I grew up with British and aussie stuff...
The Bloody American idea of hooking those bloody turn signal and brake light filmaments , and the bloody head aches when 100% of trailers are hooked to go on a sensible british independant brake and indicator circuits and filiments...
If it is the one single thing that really get up my nose is that lol

32 yrs ago, the camaro was my 1st real American car...I dismantled it, and when it came to sorting that out, not realising that they have the same filiments...no internet back then, and phone calls where damn expensive..I pouled enough hair out to stuff a pillow (it all grew back lol)
Any way back to the problem..
 
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