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Discussion Starter #1
ok- 69 Camaro, non-guage, 327, 2BBl, Powerglide- 3 lead alternator, points.

few months back had electrical fire- replaced engine and headlight harnesses, regulator, horn relay, battery, battery leads, ignition switch, reran wires burnt under dash- 12 Red and 12 pink.

car will turn over with ignition switch but will never run. car can be started with lead between + battery and + coil.

i cannot figure out how to get this thing started normally. have tried and traced everything.

one additional question: will the car start if there is a problem in alternator? i had it bench tested and it was charging but some other test they performed failed (stator?). the shop put a new alt on the tester and got the same result. so they said mine was fine and their machine was acting up. would a faulty alt not allow me to start the car?

any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated as i just don't know where to go now.

thanks

toph
sd,ca
 

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Sorry to hear about the fire, but I guess it could have been worse....sounds like some damage and has been repaired.

Anywho, the alternator should not affect your ignition circuit and the battery should provide power, so fix that and move on.

Have you put a meter on the coil and does it have ANY voltage present when the ignition is on? You should see at least 8 volts and likely more depending on ignition system with the ignition switch on. If not then the lead coming from the ignition switch is not powered up for some reason. If the voltage is there during the ignition "on" but fails to start because the voltage disappears when cranking....then the lead from the "R" terminal on the starter is not connected to the coil. This "R" terminal provides full battery voltage to the coil during cranking, so that's my guess with what you have said.

Good luck and double check everything.
 

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Check your ign switch and wires from switch to the fuse block. Fuse block through resistor wire on firewall. if it wasnt replaced it may be toast too. Also if its not an hei dist. dont keep that 12v going to the coil for very long or you'll melt your points. Recheck the yellow wire from the starter to the + side of the coil as well. That will supply the initial 12v to kick the coil and spark to fire off the next cylinder in line with a great initial spark on a non hei system. This is also the initial power for the hei unit as well. Good luck and keep the smoke coming off the rear tires where it belongs.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the suggestions.

i put v-meter on the + side of coil- ignition on= no voltage.

meter 'went crazy' when turned key to get starter motor turning. too short a time to see voltage but looks like the R terminal may be working.

does the circuit need continuity in the starter for initial ignition? that is- is it possible that i have a problem in the starter circuit? just want to eliminate anything i can.

car will turn over with starter.

if it's not that- i suspect the resistor wire circuit which goes to dash.

i have new wiring harness and new ignition switch.

what's the resistance of the R-wire? so- i can try and trace if there's a ground somewhere.

seems so close- just can't get it running on it's own.

thanks

toph
sd,ca
 

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Sounds like the R terminal is doing its job. Is the resistor wire connected to the coil as well? White cloth covered aluminum wire. It goes over to the fuse block on the firewall. You may need to pull the harness off the firewall and check its condition. Make sure there is good contact as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
>>Is the resistor wire connected to the coil as >>well?

yes- it's connected and brand new.

>>Make sure there is good contact as well.

this may be the culprit- argh- hate taking the fuse- junction block out.

toph
sd,ca
 

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Discussion Starter #7
fixed starting problem- wires in the junction box came out when reassembling.

thanks for the help.

toph
sd,ca

alternator prob now- see other topic
 
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