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Last night while running an errand, the dash warning lamps for temp, generator and fuel all unexpectedly came on. The car had only been running for three mins, so it wasn't overheating, the fuel gauge still displayed a correct level, and as near as I could tell from visual indicators ie dim dashlights/headlights, the system wasn't discharging. The car has console gauges with the low fuel sender, new American Autowire harnesses, and I have wired in the temp light on the dash to work as a back-up to the temp gauge. The wire to the coolant sensor in the cylinder heads was not hooked up as the sender does not have the correct resistance to accurately run the gauge and light in tandem. I haven't gotten around to installing two separate sensors, but that's a job for another day. Anyone seen this before or have any suggestions?
Thanks
Todd
 

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Re: unexpected dash warning light illumination

Voltage Regulator should be tested and check the connection harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Swapped in a regulator I had lying around and checked the connections. No change. Still scratching my head.
 

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I'm not sure how you wired the light and guage together for the temp. I would run them as two seperate circuits except for the hot(ign) wire. With that said is it possible the wire that is supposed to go to the sender is grounded underhood by laying on a hot manifold or something?

Jeff
 

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I thought about that, but when I checked it, no dice. I have a feeling I'm going to have to dig for this one.
 

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As Jeff suggests, temp light needs its own temp switch and temp gauge needs its own temp sensor. The two circuits should never be connected together other than input power.

If GEN light came on, and the charging system is equipped with an external regulator, alternator terminal R supplies VR relay voltage thus turning off the GEN light. No voltage, GEN light on.

Have you measured:
1. alternator BATT stud voltage to ground? Should not be less than 13.8 volts at 2000 rpm.
2. Voltage across battery posts? Should not be less than 13.5 volts at 2000 rpm.
If above measurements are battery voltage, and the VR has been changed, then alt could be bad, or belt slipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hmmm. Gauge fuse was blown and instantly blows when replacement is installed. Dead short somewhere.
 

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Buy a couple boxes of fuses. Unplug console harness and see if fuse blows.
If it does not, then disconnect each gauge input power, pink wire, by itself and insert new fuse.
The previous circuit opened from no fuse blown is the faulty circuit.
If fuse blows with console disconnected, go from fuse panel to pink wire. should be an open to ground when measure with an ohmmeter.
Could also be a shorted warning bulb. Easy enough to check.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I unplugged the console and the temp and fuel warning lights went out, however, the generator light stayed on. Replaced the fuse and it still instantly blows. Voltage at the battery is 12.9, and at the batt post on the alt it reads the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Voltage measured across the battery with the car running is 18 Volts DC. Seems pretty high. Too high?
 

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Last night while running an errand, the dash warning lamps for temp, generator and fuel all unexpectedly came on. The car had only been running for three mins, so it wasn't overheating, the fuel gauge still displayed a correct level, and as near as I could tell from visual indicators ie dim dashlights/headlights, the system wasn't discharging. The car has console gauges with the low fuel sender, new American Autowire harnesses, and I have wired in the temp light on the dash to work as a back-up to the temp gauge. The wire to the coolant sensor in the cylinder heads was not hooked up as the sender does not have the correct resistance to accurately run the gauge and light in tandem. I haven't gotten around to installing two separate sensors, but that's a job for another day. Anyone seen this before or have any suggestions?
Thanks
Todd
Have you ever used led lights as dash lights?
 
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