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I have a unilite that has been good for almost 25 yrs Tried to start no good.Ran module test showed open,orderd new one.ran test showed good.Still no spark.Changed to new coil,no spark,rand new ground no spark. Anyone?
 

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I have a unilite that has been good for almost 25 yrs Tried to start no good.Ran module test showed open,orderd new one.ran test showed good.Still no spark.Changed to new coil,no spark,rand new ground no spark. Anyone?



Have you actually pulled the distributor out? Reason I'm asking is, when I bought my Z it came with a Unilite. Had an issue that sounds like yours and it ended up the cam/distributor gear was wiped out. Check to see if the rotor is actually rotating before you remove it anyway, just in case that isn't your problem...no need to remove?Maybe.
 

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thanks I didn't think about that. Would I have change the dist gear or the cam also? Have not seen any sparkle on dip stick.will do that in the am.got my fingers crossed,
 

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unless you are running a cam with a billet gear, unlikely the distributor, or cam, gear is wiped. Billet cams with billet gears need a specific distributor gear

As noted if the rotor turns smoothly (not jerking or stepping) when you crank the motor over the gears are likely not the issue

When people fail to bolt the distributor down with the hold down the distributor can "lift" out and the teeth can get chipped but the car will stop running as the timing is then all off

When you replaced module did you pull Dizzy to do?

If so you sure you stabbed it back in right?
 

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unless you are running a cam with a billet gear, unlikely the distributor, or cam, gear is wiped. Billet cams with billet gears need a specific distributor gear

As noted if the rotor turns smoothly (not jerking or stepping) when you crank the motor over the gears are likely not the issue

When people fail to bolt the distributor down with the hold down the distributor can "lift" out and the teeth can get chipped but the car will stop running as the timing is then all off

When you replaced module did you pull Dizzy to do?

If so you sure you stabbed it back in right?



"unlikely the distributor, or cam, gear is wiped."





Mine did.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I pulled cap and cranked,rotated good no jerk, retested new module test ok.Getting 9 volts from resister wire per instructions. still no spark.will move ground to manifold.Any other ideas.
 

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I pulled cap and cranked,rotated good no jerk, retested new module test ok.Getting 9 volts from resister wire per instructions. still no spark.will move ground to manifold.Any other ideas.
if this is a non points distributor (aka HEI) you want a "NON" resistance wire, not the stock resistance wire. Run a new +12vdc wire from IGN terminal on fuse block

with that said my car ran with the 9v resistance wire when I put in a Pertronix kit but I did swap that wire out for a copper core feed from IGN and just taped the white resistance wire back into the wire loom

didn't know there is a bench test for the module other than confirming its getting +12v (or 9v from resistance wire) and ground is good
 

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if this is a non points distributor (aka HEI) you want a "NON" resistance wire, not the stock resistance wire. Run a new +12vdc wire from IGN terminal on fuse block

with that said my car ran with the 9v resistance wire when I put in a Pertronix kit but I did swap that wire out for a copper core feed from IGN and just taped the white resistance wire back into the wire loom

didn't know there is a bench test for the module other than confirming its getting +12v (or 9v from resistance wire) and ground is good
Before installing the UNILITE® Distributor, make sure that your vehicle is equipped with an ignition ballast resistor (or loom resistance wire)
in the wire between the ignition switch and the coil (+) terminal. Check a service manual for your vehicle to locate the ignition ballast
resistor (or loom resistance wire). If your vehicle is not equipped with an ignition ballast resistor, install a Mallory Ignition Ballast Resistor
Part No. 700 in the wire between the ignition switch and the coil (+) terminal. Failure to use an ignition ballast resistor will eventually destroy
the UNILITE® Ignition Module.
 

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^^^^Thanks for clarifying a Unilite distributor wants a resistance or ignition ballast....I didn't know, learn something everyday.

The OP is correct in confirming his resistance wire is providing 9v...but I am at a loss as to what his no start cause is
 

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YES, Uni-Lite wants resistor. In fact, it wants two, and 9 volts is just right for it. Please remember, this is NOT a performance ignition, it is a points replacement one, and I consider these to be the best "drop in" systems available.

The full volts starting bypass is still active, needs that to start.

On one of these sites in the electrical section, an outline on how to test and fix these ignitions is given.

When Boots Mallory designed the Uni-Lite, he designed it to run on a low voltage, and included a small MOPAR .60 ohm resistor to be added to the power input of the unit, along with the stock car resistor.

Then, along bounces some genius that says the system will make welding volts if all the resistors are taken out. Well, yes, but only for a short time. Clearly in the instructions, whenever a Uni-Lite is spun up on a distributor machine, the unit should bee powered up using a 9 volt dry lantern battery, not the full volts of a car battery.
 

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Yes Unilite uses a resistor. Do you by chance have an MSD Box?
 
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