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Discussion Starter #1
I finally started to tear the interior of my car apart to see what I was really looking at as far as rust damage. I was pleasantly surprised for the most part until I saw what seemed like a dip in the rear floor pan. Once I removed the center console, I was shocked to see a crease in the metal that looked like the floor of the car had been compacted down. I have barely driven the car since I picked it up last summer and I know that I haven’t punched it nearly hard enough to bend the Chassis like that. It the guy who sold the car to me failed to disclose this info; I know he liked to burn through tires...

I have much to learn yet so I was hoping for some advice on this. What am I looking at to correct this? Can this be repaired fairly easily, or am I going to have to go to a frame shop or replace that section of the floor (who knows what other areas that may have been impacted)?

The only cancer I have seen thus far is the right floor board, trunk floor and corner of the dash panel. I still need to take a grinder to the rest of the floor board but the toe boards look solid as does the rest of the car for the most part.

I have learned so much on this site and was ready if the rust had been worse, but the crease across the floor of the chassis was definitely something that I wasn't prepared for nor expected. :noway:
 

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Is your Camaro a coupe or Convertible?
 

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The additional pics will be great.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
David

Is your Camaro a coupe or Convertible?

Looks like you should patch in or replace the tranny tunnel to me. Once metal is bent, it is forever weakened--unless you add new metal on top of or below it (sistered to it like a sandwich). If it were me, I'd replace the tranny tunnel using a good one from a donor car (if you could find one)... Otherwise, if you planned on replacing the entire floor (one-pc), that would be even nicer of a repair. (no seams)

Its a Coupe and one side of the floor is rotten near the tranny tunnel, but the rest of it is pretty solid. I was hoping to avoid replacing the whole floor as its not in bad shape (rust wise.. ), but until I get subframe connectors, the chassis is what I am relying on so I definetly want to get this fixed asap.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I took some more pics that will hopefully give you guys a better idea, unfortunetly and kind of embarassingly I dont have any good side profile shots of the car and cant move it atm (garage kind of smallish) , so I hope what I have posted will give you a decent enough idea.

Also I really appreciate your guys time. I have a lot to learn so I very much value all of your responses and advice.









 

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I understand the garage space or lack there of. The reason I asked is while bent metal does not always mean damage to structural integrity as Scott said, any bent metal between frame halfs on a subframe car such as ours requires attention. The body does give structural integrity on a subframe car. Just at least for piece of mind so you know it wont cause anymore problems down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So basically I need to either replace the floor pan or straighten and reinforce the tunnel? The only place I have seen that looks affected is the floor and the doors open and shut fine and rocker panels look straight, I just didnt expect to see that.
 

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I have a Camaro that whacked a tree so hard it bent the floor like that. I'd get it on a rack and have them see if the car is twisted.
 

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When a car gets hit it accordians often far away from the point of impact, obviously. Look front and rear for repair evidence. I've spent many hours on frame machines, new and old cars, full frames and unibodies. I cannot see it so can't make a proper assessment. It appears there is a kink in the tunnel besides the obvious dents. Most likely incorrect but has anyone used the shell for storage? I've seen tunnels smashed badly when blocks an other monstocities were thrown inside. Reinforcement is not required. If it is the panels in question get replaced. Does a quarter panel get reinforced if it takes a hit? Again, properly straightened the repairs are fine. Hop on a machine and you'll know when a panel is beyond repair. If your unsure have your local frame tech look at it. Note that the tunnel has a natural angular change at that location that is origional. If you had another for reference you'd see it. Those points are where the structure begins to fold when a car is struck.
 

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WoW--amazing! :rolleyes:
 

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Have you looked under the car in that area to see any sign of an impact ? I was thinking a driveshaft malfunction, but I assume its too far back from the back of the transmission. Its like some big gorilla gave it a karate chop. Since the carpet was presumably in, there would not be any paint damage on the inside if that is where the impact was. The only problem I have with the theory on an impact causing this is it would seem to me that something else would have to give and not just that one area. The rockers should be affected too I would think. And door gaps too...

Before I spent $$$ and time taking it anywhere, I would get the AIM (or have someone post the images) and do the measurements on the frame alignment points. Those are easy to find and will tell you real quick if the body is tweaked or not.

-Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks again for the advice, I feel alot better knowing what to look for and what my options are. Unfortunetly it looks like the previous owner welded the exhaust to the headers so its not going to be as easy as I would have hoped to get a look under the tunnel. The underside of the floor looks good from what I can see other than the small fold you can see from the top, but I am going to have to take another look under the tunnel for sure.

The guy I bought it from said the engine he built should be around 425hp or so. is it possible the crease/folds are from torque rather than impact?

Sorry I am pretty green what are you refering to when you are asking about AIM?

Thanks again,

David
 

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The AIM is the Assembly Instruction Manual. I don't have it next to me right now, but in either the AIM or the Fisher body manual there is a diagram that shows the measurements that you can take from defined points on the subframe and frame rails, essentially drawing an 'X' from these points. These areas I think are holes about 1" in diameter. Frame shops know this as its what they use to know if the frame is bent and how much to pull to get it back.

Here is more info:

http://www.1stgencamaro.net/frame.htm

-Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The AIM is the Assembly Instruction Manual. I don't have it next to me right now, but in either the AIM or the Fisher body manual there is a diagram that shows the measurements that you can take from defined points on the subframe and frame rails, essentially drawing an 'X' from these points. These areas I think are holes about 1" in diameter. Frame shops know this as its what they use to know if the frame is bent and how much to pull to get it back.

Here is more info:

http://www.1stgencamaro.net/frame.htm

-Kevin
Excellent! I will take a look at these points and see where I stand. Thank you again for your help.

David
 

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Have you looked under the car in that area to see any sign of an impact ? I was thinking a driveshaft malfunction, but I assume its too far back from the back of the transmission. Its like some big gorilla gave it a karate chop. Since the carpet was presumably in, there would not be any paint damage on the inside if that is where the impact was. The only problem I have with the theory on an impact causing this is it would seem to me that something else would have to give and not just that one area. The rockers should be affected too I would think. And door gaps too...

Before I spent $$$ and time taking it anywhere, I would get the AIM (or have someone post the images) and do the measurements on the frame alignment points. Those are easy to find and will tell you real quick if the body is tweaked or not.

-Kevin
After 20 years and countless cars I've pulled on a frame machine I can assure you structures will buckle and leave surounding areas intact. Or buckle far away from the impact. It's basic physics. The poster needs to find a qualified autobody person to evaluate the vehicle if he can't figure it out himself. Although I think with a little observation he can. And based on other threads I've read here some so called bodyshops can't even align the panels on these cars. Depending on the job, pictures are no substitute for a physical evaluation, especially inadequate ones. It's possible this issue is not a big deal whatsoever. The measurements mentioned are simply cross measurements and are standard practice. Initial evaluations can be obtained even without dimensions.
 
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