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Discussion Starter #1
Hi. My distributor has a vacuum advance. The person I got the car from has it hooked to the front of the carb. My uncle says it should be on the manifold. That is gets more power on the manifold. Problem is my Edlebrock performer manifold doesnt have a place to put the vacuum line. What should I do?
 

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Which exact barb do you have? Depending on the carb used, it may have full manifold vacuum sourcing already on it. You also DON'T want to just put the vacuum advance hose on full manifold vacuum, that could give you way too many degrees of vacuum timing. Making a very low cost stop plate would no doubt help in that situation.

Lets take small steps first, figure out what you have, and go from there. Carb type first, please. From your board name, we could think you had a 1984 Z28, which would have a Quadra-Jet on it, yes/no? We might also think that the 1984 Z28 engine also had an EGR valve, yes/no? EGR valve changes things on vacuum advance sourcing.

Regards,

Milton
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It is a 84 Z28 But it has a 350 in it. It has roller rockers, Edlebrock Performer Manifold, And A Edlebrock Carb..That is all I know so far. I am new to the V8 World.
 

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Assuming you have a performer series and not a Q-jet type edelbrock.

Where is your vacuum line on the carb in this photo?
The yellow port does the same thing that your uncle is talking about, it is below the throttle blades and has vacuum all the time as long as the engine is running.
Ported (red) only has vacuum when the throttle is open because it is above the throttle blades.
 

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Yellow would be better but if you move it to the red your going to have to re set the idle and maybe the timing.
If it runs fine now leave it unless your confident you can set timing properly and have the tools to do it.
 

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You won't have to retime the engine.

The idle rpm may increase, and you might have to turn the throttle stop screw down a lil.
If you look on that pic, on the right where the linkage attaches, you can see the straight head screw sticking straight out at us.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You won't have to retime the engine.

The idle rpm may increase, and you might have to turn the throttle stop screw down a lil.
If you look on that pic, on the right where the linkage attaches, you can see the straight head screw sticking straight out at us.
Ok so I moved it to the yellow one. But When I unplugged it from the red I noticed that the distributor moved. I can move it with my hand.. Now what do I do to find out exactly where it needs to be?
 

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This is kinda why I was implying if it isn't broke don't fix it.
If you do have a timing light, read the instructions on how to use it.
You should have a timing tab on the drivers side just above the balancer and pulley.
When you time it your going to want the line on the balancer to match up with the line on the timing tab that is 10 degrees btdc. the 0 mark on the tab is zero degrees so if you count each mark going up you want the balancer line at the 10 degree mark on the timing tab.
Each little dash is 2* so 0 then up, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and so on.
The reason I say 10 is because most stock cars are between 8 and 10 degrees btdc.

This may seem confusing.
Which way did you move the distributor and how much? If you moved it slightly don't worry about re timing it as long as the car runs fine. If the distributor moves very freely your going to want to move and tighten the hold down clamp.
moving the distributor to you is advancing, moving it away from you is retarding.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I moved it alot.. I do have a timing light but dont know how to use it. Someone said to just start the car and listen to the way it sounds..So I did that and waited to the idle smoothed out. I also kinda remembered where it was. The person before me failed to tighten down the keeper. I just tightened it and took it for a ride. Seems ok. I will drive it to work in the morning and see how it does. Please check here tomarow night for a update I may need help..lol Thanks so much for the help.
 

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Hook the timing light to the #1 cylinder(drivers side closest to the radiator), then make sure you have the red port plugged since you are not using that one anymore. Next, pull the vacuum line off the red port or off the distributor and plug it as well. Next, start the car and allow the choke to open fully. Next, I set my timing to 18* initial. Depending on the mods you have, you may need less initial(trial and error) to see where the engine likes it. This is where a little patience and testing comes in. With the initial timing set, lock the distributor down. I found it's better to use a stud rather than a bolt, something like this:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-400505&autoview=sku

After the initial timing is set, unplug the red port and hook the vacuum acvance hose to it and then reset your idle if necessary. Again, depending on the cam and other mods, you may have to run more or less idle speed. I run a 224*/224* 470*/470* cam and I can run my idle at 800rpm in park/neuitral and it drops to 650rpm in drive and the car idles great, well it used to, but that's something for another post. Good luck. Take your time and you can do it. I am sure your father can guide you if you get lost. You can always log on here. There are always TC members to assist you as well.
 

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New York! Bummer. I was gonna come over and help.
 
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