Valve Cover interference

would a longer or shorter belt help to move the alternator one way or the other ?

You can buy a ALT bracket for headers that uses the 2 port bolts of #1 cyl. Then just notch out the top arm bracket a little further and get a longer belt

When I put in my BPE motor which has taller heads than my 327 did, my ALT hit the DS VC so the header ALT mount and notch mod on stock top mount worked great

If you have stock exhaust manifolds you could just put 1/4" spacers between stock alt mount and exhaust manifold and notch the top bracket a little more if you have to.

Moving ALT further out forward will throw off belt alignment to other pullys

ramblin67rs said:

I bought new valve covers and not the alternator bumps the VC. Is there a bracket that will push the alternator further out towards the radiator? Ill need to put a spacer on the flywheel pulley

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Pictures always help.

He's trying to fit tall covers on his engine.

Look at the back of your alternator. You may be able to re-clock the back of the alternator to clear the valve cover. I know it worked for me, when the valve cover was in the way.

Like I mentioned in post #3, Just add 1/4" spacers between exhaust manifold and ALT bracket. If you have enough slot left on the top arched bracket great but you may need a longer belt. You can extend the slot some if needed also but it looks like you have plenty left in pic

Looks to me like a longer belt would do it.

rogerh said:

This is a picture of what I’m talking about.
View attachment 307394

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A longer belt will do it. I do believe your alternator should be clocked 90 degrees so the wires are on top.

The picture you guys are talking about is of Rogers car. Not the OP's. Roger is showing how he indexed the alternator back side to gain valve cover clearance.

Garfields Maro said:

Roger, did you have to separate the 2 halves or just remove the bolts and rotate?

IIRC, mine is 180* off from yours. I might try this as I have tall valve covers and an aftermarket Alt. bracket. The belt has to be just the right size without much room for adjustment. Would like to keep the belt as short as possible.

I was looking for other reference photos and found this one of Chick's 68 Z. Looks like it's oriented the same as Roger's....

View attachment 307437

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That is a good question. I had my alternator rebuilt locally and when I got it back, it hit the stock valve cover, using the stock belt. When I complained to the rebuilder, he just said it could be re-clocked. I returned it to him and the next day got it back, like you see it.
I presume he just removed the 4 screws/bolts and turned the back 90 degrees. I don't know that for a fact, but I don't see why that can't be done.

rogerh said:

I presume he just removed the 4 screws/bolts and turned the back 90 degrees. I don't know that for a fact, but I don't see why that can't be done.

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If you do it yourself you need to be sure the brushes stay aligned properly.

yeah you use a paper clip to hold in the brushes. There is a pin hole in case you stick the paper clip through. You need to separate the 2 halves, clock, put 2 halves together. Fairly simple task

Thanks, I'll have to check my service manuals to see if there's any detailed info/pics of this... Separating is much spookier!

The good ol' boy here did a 10Si without fully separating...