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Discussion Starter #1
I lost the radio fuse tonight (no, not a HF special!) which took the ACC spade buss with it. I don't know why yet.

I have the radiator fan and my volt gauge sharing that spade in the fuse block. Can I move the gauge to share the IGN spade with the 12V ignition wire that goes to the coil? I think the meter, fan and radio are too much for that circuit, but I didn't have all three on at the same time.

I gotta figure out why I lost the radio circuit first I guess. How else am I gonna blast Highway Star while I'm cruisin'?
;)
 

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Radio has its own fuse and would be turned on by ACC position, if OE. Otherwise, later aftermarket would need a BAT for memory and ACC to turn on.

Radiator fan, I would control by relay using the ACC spade to turn on/energize the relay with fan power coming from the buss bar through the relay contacts to fan motor then to ground. This way, the relay handles the current load and ACC handles the low current of the relay coil.

Voltmeter can remain on the ACC spade as technology today, meters require very little current, milliamperes.

With the above set-up, I believe the original size fuse for ACC and RADIO would more than handle the load. Wire the fan relay just like Steiner suggested earlier today in another post complete with diode to cut down on spiking from the relay coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hmmmm.... cigarette lighter circuit! Good idea!
The head unit does have it's own fuse. I have it powered by the ACC blade and the memory powered by BAT blade. The only thing is, it doesn't work when the key is in ACC, which I couldn't care less about.

Everett, I'm going to do that. I didn't really want the fan straight off the fuse block to begin with, but with impatience and all. ;)
I wonder why the fan controller fuse didn't blow? Whatever.... time to get crackin'!
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wired in the relay\diode last night.
I put the 12V line from it to the junction on the core support. Same with the ground... to the core support.
12GA from relay to power, 14GA to ACC spade, and probably 14GA from the fan controller to the relay.

What size fuse should I have in the 12V line? I had a 10A in there and the fan ran for about 60 seconds before it popped. I'm going to have to contact the fan supplier and ask because the fan isn't marked at all, and the paperwork with it was seriously lacking.
 

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Close to a Harbor Freight? They have a cheap $5 50-0-50 ammeter and $5 voltmeter.
Plug in the ammeter in series to see the current drawn, then fuse for 150% ex. if fan draws 10 amps, fuse with 15 amp.
Otherwise, I'd probably install a 15 amp and go from there. If it gets hot and doesn't open up, then a 20A.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have a Fluke 87 V, and a Fluke 79. I can set them both up.
:thumbsup:

Fuse for 150%
..... that's exactly the kind of info I was looking for Everett.
I should have mentioned I put the 10A in because I'm out of 15's. I was gonna throw a 20A in but didn't want to push my luck.

What kind of beer was that again? ;)

*Just spoke with the people who built the radiator\fan combo and he said the fan is rated at a 17A startup draw and runs at about 12A. I'll try a 15A and see how long it lasts.*
 

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Voltmeters are best on the IGN terminal IMHO. That way you see what your battery voltage is while you're cranking the motor.
 

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Radiator fan, I would control by relay using the ACC spade to turn on/energize the relay with fan power coming from the buss bar through the relay contacts to fan motor then to ground. This way, the relay handles the current load and ACC handles the low current of the relay coil.
Sorry to butt in gents, but I'm trying to figure out similar issues. So, Everett, the radio is supposed to plug into the ACC. Got that. But can you dumb-down the rest of that for me? You're not saying that the fan should be spliced into the same line as the radio that goes into the radio, are you?
 

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You're not saying that the fan should be spliced into the same line as the radio that goes into the radio, are you?
No, I'm not. The fan should be relay controlled. The relay coil can be powered by the ACC terminal through the thermostat sensor.

Sensor monitors coolant temp, closes its switch, and closes the fan power relay contacts. Relay contacts close and turn on the fan(s) as fan motor power would come from the horn relay bus bar or battery junction block.

ACC spade > sensor/switch > relay coil > ground - light current drawn.
BAT > relay contacts > to fan > ground - heavy current drawn.
 

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Voltmeters are best on the IGN terminal IMHO. That way you see what your battery voltage is while you're cranking the motor.
I put mine on the cig lighter - it's live all the time and I can see the battery voltage all the time.
 
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