Team Camaro Tech banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,349 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This wknd. I'll be installing the new mono-to-multi DSE kit along with their hvy-duty shock mount spring plate on my '68.

My 12-bolt does not have either of the 2 spring perch mounts that I typically see on our cars. It is simply a platform welded to the axle housing and does not have sides on it. It's possible the rear came out of a Nova but am unsure. I did replace axles with Moser 12-bolt axles so do know does accept the stock size axles. I am aware is a series 4 carrier.

I had an idea to help firmly center the rear that I'd like to run past ya'll.
Thinking that I could remove the center rivot/pin that holds the multi stack together and then run a 7/16" bolt through the shock mount plate, through the mult-stack and through the 1/4" spacer plate (that comes in DSE kit) and finally through the centering hole in the perch plate. I would use a washer & nut to clamp it all together. I thought this would be an improved method to help keep all the various pieces aligned & centered very well. (To clarify - this is primarily a method to help center the varius parts and not to intended to hold things together under load - U-bolts will still be used).

A few questions/concerns:

1. Anybody ever done anything like this?

2. Will I be in for a big surprise when I remove that rivot from the 5-leaf mult-stack of springs or should the others keep it all together sufficiently once removed till I run the bolt through?

3. Does this seem like a good idea or do you see as bad idea?

Thanks for your experience, knowledge, help & feedback. :beers:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,515 Posts
Anything you can do to improve things back there is worth while.

Sounds like someone welded some different perches on your axle tubes - the Camaros/Novas etc. werent made that way.

I welded a 1/4" plate to my spring perch with an alignment hole centered exactly in the middle. I replaced the bolt that holds the leaf springs together with a grade 8 3/8-24 socket head capscrew (allen head), the head of which which positively engages in the hole in the added plate. Got rid of the rubber pads, and added spacers to ensure the stack is clamped solidly with 4 u-bolts.

I think you're on the right track. Not sure if your current perch has a locating hole in it, but it would be a good thing to add. Keep in mind that if you weld a plate to it like I did, it will lower the rear by the thickness of the plate.

Edit - Reread your post and noticed that your spring perch has a centering hole. That makes your idea sound even better - essentially bolting the springs to the perches, with U-bolts as well. I like it a lot. I don't think you'll have any surprises when you remove the center rivet (mine used a bolt, not a rivet) but if you're concerned, you could c-clamp on either side before grinding off the rivet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,349 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Al - exactly the type of dialogue I was hoping for. These perches do have a centering hole but once I add the 1/4" plate (which also has centering hole) there is nothing centering the plate to the perch which is my main concern. Welding the plate to perch as you did would be a good option. I like your idea on the allen head bolt and using as a centering pin.

I did figure that the car would be lowered by the thickness of the 1/4" plate (which will be good).

So when you removed the original bolt that held the leaf springs together did you have any separation issues or sudden strong tension releases and was it simple enough to run the cap-head screw through the stack?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,515 Posts
So when you removed the original bolt that held the leaf springs together did you have any separation issues or sudden strong tension releases and was it simple enough to run the cap-head screw through the stack?
None whatsoever. My springs are the Hotchkis 3 leaf. As I said, if you're nervous about it - which is understandable - a large C-clamp either side of the hole should make it safe and worry free.

I also included an additional lowering block bolted to the tops of the springs with the through-bolt.
 

·
Retired
Joined
·
26,617 Posts
What you are describing sounds like a mopar spring pad. I would research a few mopar sites to see how they attach the spring and shock plates. Your dse shock plates and stock camaro shock plates are designed to clamp down on the spring perches and you might find they start bending as you tighten the u-bolts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,349 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
What you are describing sounds like a mopar spring pad. I would research a few mopar sites to see how they attach the spring and shock plates. Your dse shock plates and stock camaro shock plates are designed to clamp down on the spring perches and you might find they start bending as you tighten the u-bolts.

Good Point - The current shock plates are a custom fab job done by a previous owner and did experience some bending. The DSE plates are significantly thicker and I'm hoping will remain stable when torqued.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
19,786 Posts
I would use the C-clamp as a safety :yes:

As for the bolt... I guess it would work fine. I was into 4 X 4's and adding springs to the pack was a common thing and thats all we did was the "allen bolt". The U-bolts keep everything in-line.
 

·
Retired
Joined
·
26,617 Posts
I would use the C-clamp as a safety :yes:

As for the bolt... I guess it would work fine. I was into 4 X 4's and adding springs to the pack was a common thing and thats all we did was the "allen bolt". The U-bolts keep everything in-line.
4x4's and trucks are a bit different with the spring being ontop of the axle not below it. I know guys running lowering blocks do so with a gap between the shock plate and perch but I'm not convinced that's the way to do it if planning on applying lots of power.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
19,786 Posts
7" lift...4.56's...38" tall x 14.5" wide tires...no issues and it went through the wringer more than once.

I think it's a mute issue personally.

These trucks running high arched springs along with blocks, very big tires and 12"+ U-bolts aren't showing problems.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top