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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings everyone

Today I finally unloaded my Camaro and left it in my garage. Has broken windows, can't leave it outside (Mustang has to take the fall hehe, but it's covered : P ).

Now I've to start figuring things out. What's what. First things first is - does the car run? We didn't try to start the car in fear of breaking something. Trans oil is fine. The engine oil is watery. Few said it has smelled like gas. I'm still a novice when it comes to cars, especially old muscle cars, even though I've two of them.

Here's what I figured out so far - it's 496 stroker, power brakes, power steering etc. whole shabang. That's it. The car was "Run & Drive". Everything was set up and it was in process of paint, something dropped on top of it and now it's in my garage. What should we do? Is it some kind of a special oil? After I drain the oil, what should I use? non-synthetic 10w30? It gets really hot where I live. Let's say I change the oil, do I turn over the engine by hand? Do I start it? It was in rain for a day, so there's water on top of the transistor (when I took it off it was wet, that's why we didn't try and start the engine).

Here's the picture of the engine oil and the engine bay for visual.

Thank you for your time.
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Drop the oil and filter, replace with VR-1, Brad Penn, Rotella or some conventional high zinc oil. Turn the engine over by hand a few times and make sure it’s free. Fresh gas, double check firing order and make sure TDC on compression stroke is pointed at #1. Fire away from there.

Probably a bunch of gas in the oil if it sat in a body shop and they flooded it trying to start it all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
When I opened the radiator cap and looked down, it was half full. Might be the gasket. I'm guessing I've to check if the cylinder is properly sealed as well? Which is what compression tester does, like WOW said.

Coolant level was low, no external leaks detected. I presume I should probably check if the coolant leaks inside the engine.
 

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Whoa! If the radiator is low and the oil is over full, you don't want to fire it up. Drain the oil into a glass pan and if there is water in the oil, it will go to the bottom of the glass pan.
Pull the plugs and get a pressure tester to put pressure on the radiator. Pressurize the radiator to the pressure of the cap, 15# or so. If it does not hold pressure, put a hose in the plug holes one at at time with the other end in your ear. Listen for air. Works best with a warm engine as a crack may not open up until warm. Look for leaks around the head at the gasket.
Next step is a leak down test. Although a compression test may work, the leak down test will give you a better evaluation of cylinder sealing.
If those are aluminum heads, you may have a blown head gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
you can send the oil off to Blackstone and they will tell you the ingredients and viscosity and if there's any gas in it. Hard to say what oil to use with out more information on the motor. Who built the motor?
I bought it off of Copart. It's in Georgia now : ) (Country not the state). All I know is someone put a lot of work in it.
 

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Georgia.... that explains the flag icon I didnt recognise. Do the oil in glass test and see what evolves there. How rough are parts and decent gas to come by in your neck of the woods?
More car pics may help,
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm curious as to what you're calling a "transistor". Maybe a better description or pic showing the part would help. Is the oil level showing high? Don't try to start the motor until you're sure if there's water in the oil or not.
I believe the correct word is coil. Central part where electricity is distributed to ignition coils.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I drained the oil. When I loosened the bolt, I left it for 5 minutes. Water was dripping. Then I filled up my bucket with the watery oil. There was definitely some kind of mix-up in the engine.

Spark plugs were wet, watery & oily. I tried turning the engine over by hand, but I had to do it from under, laying down with extended wrench and tip that went sideways, one you use for tricky situations. I couldn't turn the engine over. Maybe it's because of the set up I had with my wrench. So now I've to take off the intake manifold to access 2 spark plugs that I need to take out and the radiator itself to access the engine from top down and try to properly turn the engine over.

If the engine doesn't turn over, I guess it's done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If all the spark plugs are out, you should be able to turn it by hand, or cranking it with the starter.
pictures!
Hey Fairfax!

Sorry it took so long. I was busy with work. Today we got into my garage, we took of the last 2 spark plugs. There's little room and I even broke both spark plugs.
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After this, we had to remove the propeler to access the engine from top down. From there, I was able to turn the engine over with one hand. I did about half a turn.

This is the oil. About 5 liters.
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Looks like the engine will run. I'll need to change the head gasket and maybe do some surface work on the block.

Don't know which head gasket I should buy.

Thank you for your time & concern Fairfax! I appreciate the attention & offered help! Looks like I got off easy on this one.
 

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Hey Fairfax!

Sorry it took so long. I was busy with work. Today we got into my garage, we took of the last 2 spark plugs. There's little room and I even broke both spark plugs.
View attachment 293172
View attachment 293173


After this, we had to remove the propeler to access the engine from top down. From there, I was able to turn the engine over with one hand. I did about half a turn.

This is the oil. About 5 liters.
View attachment 293174


Looks like the engine will run. I'll need to change the head gasket and maybe do some surface work on the block.

Don't know which head gasket I should buy.

Thank you for your time & concern Fairfax! I appreciate the attention & offered help! Looks like I got off easy on this one.
I'd pull the engine and clean it all up and check heads and block for cracks. No telling what kind of condition the bearings are in with that in the oil pan
 

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I drained the oil. When I loosened the bolt, I left it for 5 minutes. Water was dripping. Then I filled up my bucket with the watery oil. There was definitely some kind of mix-up in the engine.

Spark plugs were wet, watery & oily. I tried turning the engine over by hand, but I had to do it from under, laying down with extended wrench and tip that went sideways, one you use for tricky situations. I couldn't turn the engine over. Maybe it's because of the set up I had with my wrench. So now I've to take off the intake manifold to access 2 spark plugs that I need to take out and the radiator itself to access the engine from top down and try to properly turn the engine over.

If the engine doesn't turn over, I guess it's done.
[/QUOTE
So the oil was thin and didn't drain like oil typically would?
No worries on the delay. That picture is no bueno…some call it the Chocolate Milkshake result. Your engine has issues that need to be fixed right the first time or your driving enjoyment will be very short lived and you’ll spend twice the money you intended. Unfortunately the engine needs a complete tear down. Your crankshaft and connecting rod bearings will need to be inspected for damage/wear, every component that requires oil for lubrication, and the reason for the coolant in the oil in the first place, along with every other component. That’s just for starters.

Felpro gaskets are just fine, but the reason for the leak needs to be found first. Don’t make grand plans until you confirm the source of the leak, because there are many it could be. Sorry for the milkshake. Keep us in the loop. Just my opinion from an ocean away, but we’re here to help.
 
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