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Hey Fairfax!

Sorry it took so long. I was busy with work. Today we got into my garage, we took of the last 2 spark plugs. There's little room and I even broke both spark plugs.
View attachment 293172
View attachment 293173


After this, we had to remove the propeler to access the engine from top down. From there, I was able to turn the engine over with one hand. I did about half a turn.

This is the oil. About 5 liters.
View attachment 293174


Looks like the engine will run. I'll need to change the head gasket and maybe do some surface work on the block.

Don't know which head gasket I should buy.

Thank you for your time & concern Fairfax! I appreciate the attention & offered help! Looks like I got off easy on this one.
I would buy a complete FelPro engine gasket/seal kit. Do it right the first time.
 

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Yes! Spending 100 bucks is worth it.

I was told to use cheap $5 oil at first. Run the car for 5-10 minutes so that it can cleanse the engine, then drain and replace it with proper oil. Is it a good idea?
Might make a little less work cleaning it but its risking more damage. Definitely replace the filter too if you are going to do it, the bypass valve is already letting that stuff go around the filter I'd guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Any update on this?
Replaced the oil once, ran it for 10 minutes, replaced it again (w10-40). Drove it for 5 minutes. Fuel was leaking from fuel feed and accelerator pump. Luckily I had old Holley rebuild kit I bought for my Mustang. Changed those. Battery was dead so I got yellow 55amp optima. Started the car and took it for a spin around the block. Revved it hard, but couldn't drive too quick because there's no windshield and I had no helmet.

Got back home and the engine oil was white and bubbly, over-filled as well. Next day on cold the engine oil looked fine, probably because water weighs more and it settled on the bottom of the engine. So yeah, water is leaking from somewhere. Glad I didn't blow up the engine.

I think leakage is really small, because otherwise the engine oil would've been as bad as it was before. Looked fine on cold.

So now we've to take the engine apart, see if the gasket is blown. I read that Patriot heads tend to blow the gasket a lot more.
 

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In my opinion you need to clean out the entire engine. The bearings do not like water/ coolant. You have a cracked head, cracked block, intake seal issue, or a blown head gasket, or a warped head. One or a few of those problems. If you only drove 10 minutes and your oil was as you describe, it's a significant leak and not small. Yes a complete tear down is the only way I would address that engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
In my opinion you need to clean out the entire engine. The bearings do not like water/ coolant. You have a cracked head, cracked block, intake seal issue, or a blown head gasket, or a warped head. One or a few of those problems. If you only drove 10 minutes and your oil was as you describe, it's a significant leak and not small. Yes a complete tear down is the only way I would address that engine.
I thought it was a small leak ;D

I guess I've to take out the entire engine and tear it down to the block.
 

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Personally that's what I would do. All of the watery oil needs to get cleaned out of every nook and cranny and the bearings. Just my opinion. Some on here are smarter than me.
 
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I guess I've to take out the entire engine and tear it down to the block.
At this point I see no other alternative if you want to use that engine. Good Luck and thanks for the update.

If you could easily find and correct the water intrusion many boat engines that have sank only needed the engine to be pickled.
 

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Replaced the oil once, ran it for 10 minutes, replaced it again (w10-40). Drove it for 5 minutes. Fuel was leaking from fuel feed and accelerator pump. Luckily I had old Holley rebuild kit I bought for my Mustang. Changed those. Battery was dead so I got yellow 55amp optima. Started the car and took it for a spin around the block. Revved it hard, but couldn't drive too quick because there's no windshield and I had no helmet.

Got back home and the engine oil was white and bubbly, over-filled as well. Next day on cold the engine oil looked fine, probably because water weighs more and it settled on the bottom of the engine. So yeah, water is leaking from somewhere. Glad I didn't blow up the engine.

I think leakage is really small, because otherwise the engine oil would've been as bad as it was before. Looked fine on cold.

So now we've to take the engine apart, see if the gasket is blown. I read that Patriot heads tend to blow the gasket a lot more.
Are you using green coolant or straight water? Pull the drain plug and see what and how much comes out. Also see how much coolant you lose from a cold engine until after driving and it’s cold again.
 

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'68 396 SS/RS, '97 SS, '02 SS
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Just for information... I was shown an old school trick many years ago for checking coolant in your oil.
You pull your dipstick and put a lighter to the oil on the dipstick if it only smokes no water, if it boils and sizzles you have water is present.
 

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Definitely a motor tear down and rebuild. Your best hope is head gasket but everything needs to be checked by a machine shop. Sorry for the news. Just an additional opinion, if it has the original leaf springs in the rear, especially if it's a mono leaf, that 496 will tear it all to pieces. That's a lot of horse for a leaf spring set up, as well as being a unibody car. Just be aware. A 4 link and subframe connectors might be in your near future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
So you filled it up, started it and allowed the thermostat to open, topped it off, checked it after cooling down and the radiator was 1/2 full?
We did that on the spot. But after that, I took it home. Few days later after fixing the fuel leak, I drove the car around the block for 10 minutes. Checked it the next day and now it's 3/4 or 1/2 full.
 
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