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Discussion Starter #1
okay, so i just cant figure it out, my engine does not want to start and stay started for more than 5 seconds, also my coil gets extremely hot! this is my set up,

1. first off, i had a distributor that had the old cap, which didnt have the male ends on the 9 tops, so i changed it to a msd hei, THOUGH it is not a HEI, the cap fits PERFECT, and is identical to my old cap, could this be a problem?

2. my coil gets very hot, but this is after extensive start ups, well trying to start.. I have the main 12 gauge cable on top of the MSD blaster coil, to my distributor, i have the black wire from my distributor to the "-" negative of my coil, yellow wire, from "+" positive of coil to my blaster resistor. I have my Pink wire, that comes from the fuse box to other side of the blaster resistor. I do not have the yellow pig tailing off the resistor to a constant 12v power source (red terminal on solenoid), Is this wrong so far? My coil is a msd blaster 2, does this ONLY work with MSD distributors? or can i use it with whateveR?

3. My firing order is correct, double and tripled checked over and over, 18436572..

4. gas is just being vacuumed from a jimmy can, which is fed to fuel pump.. constant fuel is going to carb, and is jetting out everytime i hit the throttle..

what am i doing wrong, can sometime maybe tell me what needs to go where? :(:sad::mad::confused:
 

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Have someone crank it while you manually turn the distributor until it fires. Or find TDC on your harmonic balancer. To what cylinder is your dist. rotor pointed ? This should be pointed to your no. 1 cylinder if it is on the compression stroke. To determine the compression stroke, both rocker arms to the valves should be loose. Did you do this when distributor was installed ? Once you are at TDC you can turn your the engine by hand so the pointer is at about 8 degrees. Your distributor should be pointed at the No. 1 cylinder. on the cap.
 

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Have someone crank it while you manually turn the distributor until it fires. Or find TDC on your harmonic balancer. To what cylinder is your dist. rotor pointed ? This should be pointed to your no. 1 cylinder if it is on the compression stroke. To determine the compression stroke, both rocker arms to the valves should be loose. Did you do this when distributor was installed ? Once you are at TDC you can turn your the engine by hand so the pointer is at about 8 degrees. Your distributor should be pointed at the No. 1 cylinder. on the cap.
yep.. you can't tell your timing degrees without getting it to idle. but you still gotta check to make sure you timming is quite close to TDC (top dead Center). where your #1 Cylinder is all the way up, (your exhaust valve should just close (go up) and the rotor in your cap should point to your #1 plug wire.. then go and adjust your timing..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
when we got ready to fire, we had it on tdc, rotor pointing to no. 1 and the oil pin pointed to no. 5. After distributor went in, we went from number one and started linking up our spark plugs according to sbc order.. should i get back on TDC, and re adjust my distributor?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
pin that is visible when looking down the distributor hole, has the ability to move with a long straight head screw driver.. I read it in "how to build your sbc" and it was in the chapter, getting ready to start up, and timing issues
 

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pin that is visible when looking down the distributor hole, has the ability to move with a long straight head screw driver.. I read it in "how to build your sbc" and it was in the chapter, getting ready to start up, and timing issues
Gotta watch those "How To......" publications. Most of them are written by "technical writers" without regard to the accuracy of they are actually writing.



OOOHH! the oil pump shaft.. alright.. wow never heard it called that.. I though there was something new in there I never knew existed..alright.. well did you check your TDC and make sure your still lined up with the distributor in the motor fully seated.
Same here:yes:.

David F.
 

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Have you had the car running before these changes? If so What did you change from the original set up?
It sounds like something in the ign. system isn't staying energized. Maybe at the starter, coil, or ign. swith on column.
 

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If you advance your static timing for startup to about 10-12 degrees it should fire it up. Do this by getting your engine set at TDC for number 1 (verify with the cap off). The turn your motor counterclockwise until you have either the '0' pointer on the tab lined up with the 10-12 degree mark if you have a degreed balancer, or if you don't, line up the '0' mark on the balancer with the 10-12 degrees advanced marker on your timing tab. Then loosen the distributor and turn it to line up your rotor with the #1 post (HEI is easier because of the cast triangles inside).

Tighten it down and you should be close enough to get it started then.
 

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If it stays running 5 seconds without throwing flames out the carb he's not 180 out. Twist the distributor ccw about 1/2" and try it again. Better yet get someone to crank while you twist, as someone else suggested. In lieu of that get a remote starter switch so you can crank and twist simulcast.

Coil getting hot,,,,, if you leave the key on your coil is energized and will build heat.

fyi, you don't need to align the oil pump tang to the distributor. Just set the distributor in and bump the key and in less than 2 revolutions it will self align and the distributor will fall in the rest of the way. Poking around in there just adds to the possibility of knocking crap into your clean oil supply to your bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i took off the distr, and i was on tdc, took the spark plug of #1 out to make sure, and the rotor was pointing to 6? So.. i re adjusted the distr, put it to one, and cranked, it started for about 30 seconds, and dies, So, i think distributor is right, but it struggles for gas, when i have the throttle on the carb cranked all the way, its reving as if it were idling!.. SO then i took the dist capp off again when i was at TDC, and my rotor was pointing to like 8? its super frustrating!

what i am going to try tomorrow is what steiner is saying,

"If you advance your static timing for startup to about 10-12 degrees it should fire it up. Do this by getting your engine set at TDC for number 1 (verify with the cap off). The turn your motor counterclockwise until you have either the '0' pointer on the tab lined up with the 10-12 degree mark if you have a degreed balancer, or if you don't, line up the '0' mark on the balancer with the 10-12 degrees advanced marker on your timing tab. Then loosen the distributor and turn it to line up your rotor with the #1 post (HEI is easier because of the cast triangles inside).

Tighten it down and you should be close enough to get it started then."

Also, Tim, you make a good point, i think ima stop looking at that book with the old lit lol
 

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Just remember that the marker on the damper lines up with the timing pointer twice: At TDC for #1 and TDC for #6. It sounds like you have pulled the distributor out and reset it?

The only way I know of to verify that you are definitely on TDC #1 without pulling the valve cover is to rotate the motor clockwise until the balancer mark is at about 11 o'clock. Then pull out the #1 sparkplug, put your breaker bar on the crank, stand over the left fender and with your right thumb over the #1 hole, pull the breaker bar towards you with your left hand. If you feel pressure against your thumb which blows out when you ease your thumb up, you know the mark on the crank is coming around for TDC #1. If there is not pressure, you're coming around to TDC for #6 and will need to turn the motor another full turn.

You also need to make sure that you are tightening down the distributor clamp good.

If your small block rebuild book is the one by David Vizard, hold onto it. It's one of the best out there for stock rebuilds and general information that pertains to all smallblocks. There are some small things not covered, like which bolts need sealant and stuff like that, but overall it's very thorough.
 

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Did you change out your cam? I was having an issue with my motor a while back. I bought a truck with out anyone knowing what the build was on it. Come to find out, my cam is a 180 degree out cam. I lined it up with #6 cylinder being TDC, then flipped a bi*** on the distributor to #1 cylinder. After I tighten everything down and put my cap on, I went and turned her over. She fired right up.... I was just as frustrated as you are, and checked it like 6 times and even pulled the timing chain cover off. Lined everything up, then did my flip. Not sure of the concept with the 180 out cam, but that 454 is one powerful monster compared to others that I have had.

I also believe, if your engine is not starting or runs for a few(really ruff and sound like ***) it may be 180 out. If you can't get it to start at all, and it is popping and back firing thru the carb... That is a forsure sign it is 180. I mastered my skills on dropping distributor 10 or 12 years back. I sat under the hood of my truck for about 2hrs, pulling it and re-installing it about 14 times making sure I had perfected my knowledge of this. And until my last run in, never had a problem.

All the knowledge these guys have been sharing with you, well any of us/them could be right. Also, make sure you are getting fire to you plugs. You might have you ignition system hooked up wrong, which could cause your coil to get extremely hot.
 

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Come to find out, my cam is a 180 degree out cam. Not sure of the concept with the 180 out cam,
Never heard of a" 180 degree out cam":confused:. There are cams that swap the #4-#7 cylinder firing order and there are timing sets,i.e. Pete Jackson gear drives that can be timed either on #1 cylinder or # 6 cylinder. Is it possible that you meant to say that engine was timed on # 6 cylinder instead of #1 cylinder???
David F.
 
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