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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys / Gals…

Sorry this is so long but I’m really having a hard time deciding what to do! I could really use some opinions!

As some of you may know, I repainted my 327 with the POR engine kit a little over month or so ago. Well, to be honest, after 3 coats of the enamel, I’m really not happy with it and want to repaint it. (Not with POR!)

The thing is… I didn’t totally strip the block down. Just took off the heads up, timing chain cover and oil pan. The motor was built 10 years ago, .030+, and hasn’t seen that many miles.

I really don’t want to mask it off and paint over the POR and I don’t want to strip it down with paint stripper again. Since this is the first part of the rebuild I’m doing, I want to do it right so I’m thinking about tearing it down and having it boiled. Questions:

1) Can / should I still use the cam bearings or have them replaced?
2) If I have it boiled, will I have to have the cyls bored again?
3) What brand spray paint should I use???
4) What else am I not thinking of? I'm really torn and just not thinking right!

Do you guys think this is over-kill for a paint job???

Please bounce some comments my way!

Thanks and best regards,
Rob


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69 Frame-off in progress (pics)
 

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Rob
That POR is some wacky stuff. I'm very unhappy with there engine paints, after trying to paint a rear housing cover with it, the stuff looks fantastic when sprayed with a gun, but it wont cure!
Try this, take a razor blade and slice it, now peel it off like an orange peel. Thats how i got it off my differential cover, it just peeled right off.
Its definetly not Paint!
I like dupi-color so far, but i havent tried it on an Engine yet, so i dont want to go ahead and suggest it. I'm painting my Rear Housing and Cover with it (the cover looks awsome) but dont know how it will stand up to alot of heat. This stuff actually dries also, i cant depress it with the edge of my finger nail after a week.
 

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I used, "Details" chevrolet engine orange, two coats plus on my 350 crate, so far after 1000mi, looks great! Got the paint from a local Camaro parts store, He told me they have been selling this for a lone time with good results. Details phone# is 1-619-451-1901. Good luck, (that Por-15 is tough stuff) I hope it peels off. Mike
 

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If what you mean by boiling is hot-tanking, I do not think that the cam bearings survive this process, so you will need a new set installed.

After the hot-tanking I do not think it will be necessary to have the block rebored. Just do a good clean-up and run a thread chaser through all of the bolt holes, etc.

My recommendation for engine enamels are Bill Hirsch products. I think I e-mailed you some information on these products in reference to your earlier post about the POR paints.

as for the teardown just make sure you mark everything so it goes back in it's riginal location, i.e. piston/rod assemblies, lifters, pushrods, etc.
 

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I really like all of the POR products I'ved used EXCEPT there engine paint. I tryed resraying over Por and it looks good until the engine gets hot, then it peels.
I used scuff pads and or sandpaper,then repainted and that worked but it was a lot of work.IMHO I wouldn't tear down a new engine for that, you can repaint but it isn't easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies folks!

jgreen, I think I am going to go w/ the Hirsch products. I'm going to have to get it in the spray can. Have you used it this way or do you use a spray gun?

I agree w/ PitStop that this is a lot of work for a paint job but I really want to to look good so I'm going to go for it!

Thanks again,
Rob




[This message has been edited by RFrenette (edited 08-05-2002).]
 

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My only additional thought, not new, is that the POR15 engine paint requires heat to cure - so the engine must be run. I almost bought it for my bellhousing until the body supply place informed me. BTW - I wound up using POR15 Glisten PC clear on the bellhousing. Came out nice.

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Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,M20,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips ( yet ).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey Rick,

Yup... that's the engine enamel.

Problem is I don't like the coverage. Even though I have 3 coats on it, you can still "see through" it. It just isn't "deep / thick" enough.

I'm sure running the motor will harden it but I doubt it will make it look better!

Regards,
Rob

BTW:
Funny thing is that when I put the POR silver base coat on I was like... WOW! That looks great and was thinking about stopping there! I really want the Chevy Orange though.
 

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Rob- the cam bearings won't survive the hot tanking process, and I would knock them out first anyway if I were you. That way the hot tank can clean the oil galley more effectively. Scrub that sucker real good with hot water and soap when it comes out, and like Jgreen said run a tap through all the threads. The hot tank won't hurt the bores- just do a light clean up with a cylinder hone and you're good to go.
I've had good luck also with the Dupli-Color paints, as long as the block is clean they work great.

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68 Camaro 355", TH-400, 3.73 10 bolt, Rally rims.
69 Nova 355" TH-350, 4.88 12 bolt, 150 shot...click here to see it.
And a garage full of vintage bmx bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Guys,

Is it ok to use new cam bearings w/ the old cam?

Also, would you paint the block before or after building the bottom 1/2?

Thanks again,
Rob
 

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Rob, I used the brush-on engine enamel from Bill Hirsch. It came in a 1 quart can and I used those cheapo foam type brushes to apply. I went with black on my block so I can't comment on the Chevy orange, but I was impressed with the way it turned out.

I put on two coats incidentally, not so much out of necessity but just for insurance. I 've probably got enough paint left over to do at least 2 or 3 more engines. I also painted the block while it was bare, right after washing it down real good as pete b mentioned. David Vizard has areal good method of preparing the block and bores in his book "How to build Max Performance Chevy Small Blocks on a budget". The passage is on page 39. If you don't have the book let me know if you're interested and I can e-mail you that info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hey jgreen,

That's right... now I remember you said you used the foam brushes. Sorry.. too much night school - All I can remember these days is math!


In any event, I have David V's book. I'll take a look at p 38 when I get home!

Thanks again,
Rob
 

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I've always cleaned the block, heads, and pan (after assembly) thoroughly with lacquer thinner, then one coat of hi-temp primer, then two to three light coats of VHT Hi-Temp Chevy Engine Orange (both are rattle-can); looks terrific, never had so much as a flake of paint come off of many engines I've done this way over the years. If you want the material to stay on, you have to get the parts CLEAN first, and use the right hi-temp paint materials.

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JohnZ
CRG
'69 Z28 Fathom Green
 

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Dipping a block is great for removing caked on grime and carbonized oil deposits. If your engine is as fresh as you say it is, I'd say dipping is a lot of work to get the paint off. Sounds like there have been some helpful suggestions regarding cleaning the block - I'd consider those. Also, using stripper would be far easier than stripping the block of parts, dipping and reassembling.

-dnult
 
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