Whew, ok. Thanks Joe. This doesn't sound that bad. Now, I just have to find that coolant leak at the radiator.GOOD NEWS:
You could attempt to torque the intake bolts and see if that seals it up. Start in the center and go in an x pattern working in a circle and work your way out to ends. Torque to 30 FT LBS, in increments starting at 10 FT LBS, 20 FT LBS and then 30 FT LBS. Let it sit for about 5 minutes if you get any rotation at any torque levels to allow gasket compression and go over the pattern 1 more time.
Is the intake cracked where the plug was put in? I am going to say its most likely an intake gasket leak. They happen because of the expansion rates of cast iron vs aluminum are different and it can loose a seal over time. You need a very, very, very thin skin of silicone around the water ports on the head and intake sides of the gasket to prevent leaks.
I use ultra black, put a bead around the water jacket port. Spread it thin with your finger and do the same on the intake. I also use aviation which is a non drying gasket holding material around the intake ports on the head and manifold to seal those up.
Use this dye with a black light to pin point the leak source.Whew, ok. Thanks Joe. This doesn't sound that bad. Now, I just have to find that coolant leak at the radiator.
I bet is does, as the coolant passage is in the middle of those bolts . The front bolt is a blind hole the next bolt is into the coolant. I have had many bolts rust off. Some one mentioned this, you could drain the radiator to about half or lower , then pull that bolt and apply rtv in the hole and bolt, put it back together. refill and test.I'm not entirely sure as I bought this crate motor pre-assembled. I'm learning as I go.
No. The end holes are blind. All the rest are open to the valley below. They should still be sealed to prevent oil from migrating up. Any coolant is seeping past the gasket, not migrating up the threads of the intake bolts.Doesn't the second bolt go into the coolant area in head?
Yes end holes are blind, so you ar saying there is no threads open to coolant? If thats the case , then his gasket is gone and coolant is migrating up via bolt threads.No. The end holes are blind. All the rest are open to the valley below. They should still be sealed to prevent oil from migrating up. Any coolant is seeping past the gasket, not migrating up the threads of the intake bolts.
That's great advice. I'll look around for some braided fuel line this weekend.Carl,
I know this is off topic, but from the photo you posted I see you have a rubber fuel line clamped to the fuel lines to your carb from the high pressure side of the pump. It wouldn't be good if this popped off or the line deteriorated causing a leak or spraying fuel on your hot manifolds/headers. For safety sake you might consider either braided lines with the proper AN fittings or a hard line from the pump like the OEM setup. Just hate for you to have a fire.
Coolant is migrating past the gasket. If (AND THAT IS A BIG IF) it is migrating by any threads, then it is migrating down. Enough, and it will get a small amount of coolant in the oil.Yes end holes are blind, so you ar saying there is no threads open to coolant? If thats the case , then his gasket is gone and coolant is migrating up via bolt threads.
I recall having to helicoil the inner bolt hole next to coolant passage, due to corrosion in the thread.
To tie this all up, I found the issue. It wasn't the hoses, it was a radiator failure. I chased it down and it's coming from one of the tubes. Called Summit and they're going to have another one to me tomorrow.
As far as the leak at the intake, I got a torque wrench and torqued the bolts down and the leak magically stopped. Thanks for your help guys.