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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking for the softest, front coil spring for a 69 Camaro?

Currently I'm using Moog 6308 which has a spring rate of #380, but then I saw that Moog 6314 is rated at #289.

Is there another Moog spring that will work up front, that is lighter?

My car is a cast headed 408 and it's strictly for drag racing and I'd like to stick with a stock style spring.

I checked on David Pozzi's site but I didn't know if any of those other numbers will work?
 

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If strictly drag racing, then go with Moroso's 74140 springs, if a SBC, and loosen up the upper control arm bolts, the end ones - 3/8-16 hex head.
In fact, remove the bolts and add a couple NAS flat washers used as spacers so the drag from the upper control arm is gone, or reduced.
Do the same for the lower A-arms, the less the drag on the suspension, the better the weight transfer. Sway bar can come off also.
90/10 front shocks...

I could go on...anything in reducing front end weight.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Everett,

I'm staying away from the trick springs, heard too many horror stories about them. Also I was once told that I was stupid if I thought the factory spring could get my car into the 10's so I'm wanting to prove that theory and I know it can be done.
I also installed the Competition Engineering upper control arm bushings to loosen them up.
The sway bar is gone and I'm using Calvert 90/10 shock.
Of course the battery is in the trunk, no inner fenders, fiberglass hood and bumper and a light weight radiator. I'd like to get rid of some extra weight on the motor and get aluminum heads but for now, the cast will stay.
If I do anything, I'll get a pair of springs from Santhuff, but right now, I can stomach spending $189.00 for a set of springs.

Thanks
 

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factory spring could get my car into the 10's so I'm wanting to prove that theory and I know it can be done.
Im out of my depth here...
years back I got all my springs re tensioned by an old crafstman and a furnace to factory spec....very much an art. Before the car was ok, but did 'wollow' as American cars did back then sat a little low with slight lean.
The guy loaded the springs and sure enough bang in factory specs.
Fittted to the car , and hey what a difference... even now after all these years still has a good ride and in the cnrs...goes around like a go kart.. flat and solid...
Even on modern car stands it is in most cases superior.

Keep in mind that the chances are most springs have quite a mileage/ use on them....
Most of the aftermarket.. back then.... had part numbers but no actual loading specs at different compressions, and the couil diameters where different from the orginal stock....as most properly the steel alloy mix to.
If u can get stock springs re tensioned back top original , yes I do think your objective is quite feasable....
The problem will be finding an old school craftsman and a furnace/ forge that has the skills and information to do the job.....
PS took him 2 goes to get the front coils right..1st time he had to learn how the steel reacted at the temps cooling etc ..didnt 'hit ' it 1st time....the 2nd and he allowed me to watch , explaining stuff....was very interesting.
 

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FWIW, I never had a problem with trick springs.
Compared to stock spring, trick springs have a smaller wire diameter, taller in height, and have move 'stored energy' within them with compressed.
The correct part number is 47140 vice 74140 I gave earlier, over 40 here.
You may need a different part number since you have a lighter front end.
Weigh front, total, and rear axle weights before choosing. Moving companies will weigh for a nominal fee, if you can't find a roundy-round racer/chassis mechanic.
 

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You can also go to a scrap yard or land fill to weigh the car.
 

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Hey Everett,

I'm staying away from the trick springs, heard too many horror stories about them. Also I was once told that I was stupid if I thought the factory spring could get my car into the 10's so I'm wanting to prove that theory and I know it can be done.
I also installed the Competition Engineering upper control arm bushings to loosen them up.
The sway bar is gone and I'm using Calvert 90/10 shock.
Of course the battery is in the trunk, no inner fenders, fiberglass hood and bumper and a light weight radiator. I'd like to get rid of some extra weight on the motor and get aluminum heads but for now, the cast will stay.
If I do anything, I'll get a pair of springs from Santhuff, but right now, I can stomach spending $189.00 for a set of springs.

Thanks
Bruce I have a set of s/b a/c springs if you want them..
But I would go with the Santhuff springs and be done with it ..
 
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